mattmanj2001

Hey DTR, So I am getting really close to making my purchase and noticed that I can get a downpipe included in the package im looking at for just 60 more dollars...my question is, does the downpipe have the same kind of connection at the end of it as a seperate dpf delete pipe or is it different, do they connect the same way as stock (dpf and downpipe) or is it a normal clamp on? And how hard is it to disconnect the downpipe from the turbo? Is it something a beginner could do? I know that I have to remove the cross piece to get the downpipe up...just need some good info on this! Does anybody know of a website that has online instructions with pictures of the DPF delete process? Thank You DTR!

dslbrnr01

I was wondering the same thing. I live in CA so I have to smog check and re-install. I have heard it doesn't make a real noticeable difference power wise, so I may just leave the stock down pipe in place.

I'm sure you could change it without too much trouble though, It always helps to have some patients when wrenching

Timberwolf2

I did a 5" turbo back on my truck. I was going to remove the stock downpipe intack so I could go back to stock if need be. I found it too much trouble to pull the crossmember, I just sawzalled it in half, then it fell out. The clamp at the turbo outlet is easy to reach, and as I said, once cut, the pipe fell out.

Putting the new pipe in required 4 hands. What I ended up doing was holding it in place with one hand, then wedging 2 pieces of wood between the downpipe and the crossmember. This held it while I clamped it. The clamp at the turbo outlet is a 'V' profile band clamp that catches a flared lip on both the turbo outlet and the downpipe. Thus the need for 4 hands.
Overall an easy job as long as you are patient. I did the whole job, complete from turbo to tail pipe, on my back in the garage, in about 2 1/2 hours.

As far as connecting to the rest of the system, my replacement was a full system and as such was slip joints and standard clamps. Flo-Pro make a 4" downpipe that has bolted flange to connect to the NOX inlet, the same as stock (less the converter). Not sure which manufacturer DTR is using? But their delete pipe should bolt up same as stock, so their downpipe should also.

sabercat

Thats how I did it also, my downpipe was double walled also. It was easy after cutting it.

dslbrnr01

So if you have to smog, I say leave the stock down pipe. Unless your wanting big power I don't see a need to change the down pipe. I know it's supposed to lower the egt's a little but just getting rid of the DPF is huge!!! JMO

Timberwolf2

According to dyno runs by H&S, a stock tune with deletes gives you a net gain of 40 HP & 100 ft/lbs. My driving impression would support that, running a "fuel economy" tune on my Smarty, she runs strong AND gets 5 MPG better (running empty).

mattmanj2001

I am almost tempted to cut the factory downpipe in a good place and take it to the exhaust shop and see if they could make into a 2 piece downpipe, that way I could swap it in and out if need be without having to drop the transmission crossmember everytime...I might do experimenting with an after market downpipe as well to see if I could do the same thing to it! Wouldnt that be great!

Timberwolf2

My 5" downpipe slips in place without effort but it is shorter than a flanged downpipe meant to connect with the NOX filter. The idea of a 2 piece may be overkill, I'd check the fit of an aftermarket 4" flanged downpipe. With the flange, it would be simple to bolt in the filter(s), then unbolt after inspection!

mattmanj2001

It may be a slight overkill but it would definately be worth trying to just to see the end result because I was going to buy an extra downpipe just to do this. Its all about trial and error and trying something new to see how effective it is.

sabercat

without the cat, thats in the downpipe, if you went that route, and hooked the dpf, and nox up how would that do on a smog test?

Timberwolf2

You would have to be familiar with the test procedure.
If they just look to see if all the parts are in place, I would not worry about the cat.
But if they are using a sniffer...

I am fortunate in that the testing here is a visual. ie. they look at the tailpipe, don't see smoke...Pass.

Blake Clark

I didnt find dropping the crossmember to be that big of a deal.

Just support the tranny with a good jack. Remove bolts on passenger side. Remove bolts to tranny. Loosen bolts on driver side. Let it swing down.

If you should have to return to stock replacing the CAT that was sawzalled in half is gonna make you have a stroke. They aint cheap.

sabercat

I know, wish I would have dropped the member. But being double wall (I don't know why it is) Can/could you just weld the outer shell/pipe, or is it double walled for ventilation etc? Or throw a band clap on, and weld that solid??