Wiring Q's/Backup Lamps
My old '02 you turned on the cargo light via the dimmer wheel
My '06 has a button switch for the cargo light
First Q is: Do the '05's or other have the seperate switch? Or do you turn on the cargo light with the dimmer wheel?
If the answer is dimmer wheel, then my second question is pointless
Second Q: Has anyone wired aux backup lights to turn on with the cargo light? How did it work out?
I'm going to install some aux lights under the hitch, and want to wire them into the cargo light switch...They wont come on with the backup lights, nor when the door is opened, and the dome light switch wont turn them on either....BUT...The cargo light comes on when you unlock via the keyless entry....So I dont want to tap into the light itself, but I want to use that switch....
Thirdly, who could tell me the best way to do this? My only concern is about the lights coming on when I use keyless entry...I guess a relay from the switch will prevent this, but a relay from the cargo light wouldn't?
Not exactly an electrical guru....Need help please
My '06 has a button switch for the cargo light
First Q is: Do the '05's or other have the seperate switch? Or do you turn on the cargo light with the dimmer wheel?
If the answer is dimmer wheel, then my second question is pointless
Second Q: Has anyone wired aux backup lights to turn on with the cargo light? How did it work out?
I'm going to install some aux lights under the hitch, and want to wire them into the cargo light switch...They wont come on with the backup lights, nor when the door is opened, and the dome light switch wont turn them on either....BUT...The cargo light comes on when you unlock via the keyless entry....So I dont want to tap into the light itself, but I want to use that switch....
Thirdly, who could tell me the best way to do this? My only concern is about the lights coming on when I use keyless entry...I guess a relay from the switch will prevent this, but a relay from the cargo light wouldn't?
Not exactly an electrical guru....Need help please
Backup lights
I have an 05' and it has the wheel. Sounds like the 06' is the first year of the switch. I know they did quite a few changes to the interior of the 06'. In order to use that switch with your new backup lights, you will have to see if any of the wires on the back of the switch become hot when the switch is turned on and none of the other conditions you have listed are present(Unklocing, ect.) If none of them are hot with the switch on, then there is another switch that is not allowing power to get to the switch you are talking about. If one is hot, then you should be able to tap into that wire to power your lights. If not, you are probably going to have to install a new switch. Hope this helps.
Bryce
Bryce
thats what I was thinking...didnt know if this switch was a new thing or not...
guess I'll have to get the test light out and see what happens...The cargo light comes on independant of the switch position when using keyless entry, so I should be able to run a line from the switch to a relay, and hot line from battery to relay to lights, then lights to ground? Is that right?
I'm stupid
as far as electrical stuff
guess I'll have to get the test light out and see what happens...The cargo light comes on independant of the switch position when using keyless entry, so I should be able to run a line from the switch to a relay, and hot line from battery to relay to lights, then lights to ground? Is that right?
I'm stupid
as far as electrical stuff
www.dodge.com/bodybuilder has all the wiring diagrams for the 2006 Ram and I do mean all the wiring diagrams. Maybe that will help.
Originally Posted by Herrin821
the cargo light comes on independant of the switch position when using keyless entry, so I should be able to run a line from the switch to a relay, and hot line from battery to relay to lights, then lights to ground? Is that right?
I'm stupid
as far as electrical stuff
I'm stupid
as far as electrical stuffso if the switch is feeding the 12v to the cargo lamp, your idea would work fine.
if the switch is feeding 5vdc signal to a controller, your idea will work when you modify the 12v feed source to control your relay from the switch to the actual circuit where the lamp is wired into.
Ok...Here's what I've found using the schematics
Headlamp switch connector-10 pin
Position 6
20 gauge White with Light Green tracer
Labeled "Cargo Lamp Switch Signal"
Appears to be the wire I'm looking for, but....
I've probed it with a 12V test light and got no light...I am assuming that this wire is low voltage, and signals a relay...Would that be correct? I dont have a multimeter here at the moment, so I dont know what kind of voltage is running thru it
Another q: Alot of these diagrams refer to "Driver"...What does that mean? It know it does not mean driver of the vehicle...Everything is labeled left and right....For instance "Passenger Airbag Indicator Driver". Obviously the pass. airbag has nothing to do with the driver's side of the veh...Does "driver" mean hot??
Headlamp switch connector-10 pin
Position 6
20 gauge White with Light Green tracer
Labeled "Cargo Lamp Switch Signal"
Appears to be the wire I'm looking for, but....
I've probed it with a 12V test light and got no light...I am assuming that this wire is low voltage, and signals a relay...Would that be correct? I dont have a multimeter here at the moment, so I dont know what kind of voltage is running thru it
Another q: Alot of these diagrams refer to "Driver"...What does that mean? It know it does not mean driver of the vehicle...Everything is labeled left and right....For instance "Passenger Airbag Indicator Driver". Obviously the pass. airbag has nothing to do with the driver's side of the veh...Does "driver" mean hot??
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And now I've probed with the light and multimeter, and I cant figure anything out
Dodge has wired these trucks TIGHT
most of the wiring, connectors, and splices are nearly, if not completely inaccessible without removing several dash panels....No more popping off the door panel....This sux
After rethinking this, I may run 2 aux lines out of the load center-1 hot and 1 keyed...Put 2 new fuse blocks under the dash...Add any new accessories to my self-made wiring harness without getting into the factory harness....
Sure would have been nice to use that cargo light switch, but I dont think it can be done...At least its not worth the trouble
Dodge has wired these trucks TIGHT
most of the wiring, connectors, and splices are nearly, if not completely inaccessible without removing several dash panels....No more popping off the door panel....This sux
After rethinking this, I may run 2 aux lines out of the load center-1 hot and 1 keyed...Put 2 new fuse blocks under the dash...Add any new accessories to my self-made wiring harness without getting into the factory harness....
Sure would have been nice to use that cargo light switch, but I dont think it can be done...At least its not worth the trouble
I wired mine up seperately.
I ran a positive wire from the battery to the switch
I ran a ground wire from the switch to the frame
I ran a ground wire from the lights to the frame
I ran a positive wire from the switch to the lights.
Depending on your lights you may need a relay.
Don't forget a fuse on your positive wire
I ran a positive wire from the battery to the switch
I ran a ground wire from the switch to the frame
I ran a ground wire from the lights to the frame
I ran a positive wire from the switch to the lights.
Depending on your lights you may need a relay.
Don't forget a fuse on your positive wire
Today I made myself 2 brand new wiring harnesses for future use...
The first I ran 10G stranded off the hot terminal on the side of the load center
The second I ran 10g stranded from the bottom of the load center which is keyed Run/ACC
I ran both lines thru the firewall and under the dash, to two brand new fuse blocks that I mounted under there....
Now I can tap into these blocks any time I want to add lights, gauges, etc. without getting into the factory wiring again...The only time I'd have to is if I wanted to use the dimmer switch for gauge lighting....
Tomorrow I'll hook up the backup lights
The schematics from the link above helped alot.....Thanx again for the link
My dad wants to know if a similar website exists for Ford
The first I ran 10G stranded off the hot terminal on the side of the load center
The second I ran 10g stranded from the bottom of the load center which is keyed Run/ACC
I ran both lines thru the firewall and under the dash, to two brand new fuse blocks that I mounted under there....
Now I can tap into these blocks any time I want to add lights, gauges, etc. without getting into the factory wiring again...The only time I'd have to is if I wanted to use the dimmer switch for gauge lighting....
Tomorrow I'll hook up the backup lights
The schematics from the link above helped alot.....Thanx again for the link
My dad wants to know if a similar website exists for Ford
Herrin821,
Don't know about furd sites, but go here and get the DR service manual for your truck. Link on left.
www.hemitruckclub.com
Don't know about furd sites, but go here and get the DR service manual for your truck. Link on left.
www.hemitruckclub.com
Got my backup lights mounted

Oh yeah...New Tailgate badge too
I devised a clever way of mounting the lights to the frame...
I took a length of 2" ID conduit and cut 2 pieces 1-1/2" long each (one for each side)...I drilled each one, and mounted the light bracket to them...I then used 1/4" aluminum plate, and cut 4 pieces 3" x 2". I clamped all 4 pieces together and drilled a 7/16" hole thru all of them...Using a 3/8" x 3" bolt, a couple of washers, and the aluminum plates, I clamped the counduit to the hitch frame, using existing holes...Its SOLID

These are $12 Wal-Mart Tractor/Utility lights...I didnt see the need in spending big bucks on these since they will get beat up by gravel, etc...and they should be tougher than cheap fog lights
Benfits:
Cheap....Used stuff I had laying around
No drilling into the frame, bumper, or hitch
No rust...Stainless bracket on the light, plastic pipe, aluminum for clamps, and galvanized bolts

Oh yeah...New Tailgate badge too
I devised a clever way of mounting the lights to the frame...
I took a length of 2" ID conduit and cut 2 pieces 1-1/2" long each (one for each side)...I drilled each one, and mounted the light bracket to them...I then used 1/4" aluminum plate, and cut 4 pieces 3" x 2". I clamped all 4 pieces together and drilled a 7/16" hole thru all of them...Using a 3/8" x 3" bolt, a couple of washers, and the aluminum plates, I clamped the counduit to the hitch frame, using existing holes...Its SOLID

These are $12 Wal-Mart Tractor/Utility lights...I didnt see the need in spending big bucks on these since they will get beat up by gravel, etc...and they should be tougher than cheap fog lights
Benfits:
Cheap....Used stuff I had laying around
No drilling into the frame, bumper, or hitch
No rust...Stainless bracket on the light, plastic pipe, aluminum for clamps, and galvanized bolts
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