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Water Injection

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Old 08-02-2009, 04:07 PM   #61  
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As I was installing my Wilson intake I said to myself, now would be a good time to drill & tap the intake plate for water nearest to 1 & 6 . Did I, no I felt maybe I was being to particular. (****). Well maybe I should have.
Like ever thing else, looks like Ill be doing it twice. SOB.

But OK where does the water go it it doesn't make it to 1&6 the intake plenum is nothing more than a tank. The intake valves are only open a short time. Taking what they can handle . The water spray is constant under boost. How is it not getting there.
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Old 08-02-2009, 04:17 PM   #62  
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As I was installing my Wilson intake I said to myself, now would be a good time to drill & tap the intake plate for water nearest to 1 & 6 . Did I, no I felt maybe I was being to particular. (****). Well may I should have.
Like ever thing else, looks like Ill be doing it twice. SOB.

But OK where does the water go it it doesn't make it to 1&6 the intake plenum is nothing more than a tank. The intake valves are only open a short time. Taking what they can handle . The water spray is constant under boost. How is it not getting there.

Those that feel the water is not getting there in any usable quantity think it is due to the turns and angles the air/water mixture must travel and this causes the water to be shed from the air and results in more being ingested by the ports that are more in line with the intake horn.

Most of these people are also running massive amounts of water and they may not be atomizing it completely.

Six nozzles with one in line with each intake port is best, as long as you get proper atomization you will get plenty of water to ALL the cylinders when injecting from the intake horn.
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Old 08-02-2009, 05:11 PM   #63  
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As I was installing my Wilson intake I said to myself, now would be a good time to drill & tap the intake plate for water nearest to 1 & 6 .
I've never had the plate off. Is there proper spacing/room to install a nozzle over each intake port?
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Old 08-02-2009, 05:19 PM   #64  
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I've never had the plate off. Is there proper spacing/room to install a nozzle over each intake port?
I had this same idea rolling around in my head as well but never asked and im glad someone is talking about this.

So has anyone tried this yet?
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Old 08-02-2009, 05:37 PM   #65  
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What scares me is the posts about all these Common Rails melting pistons. I know I have enough fuel now to melt things down in a hurry and my twins are on the small side.
I'm thinking I could buy smaller nozzles and buy 3 port blocks and run three smaller nozzles on each pump all tapped into the plate above the intake ports.
Anyone care to comment?
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Old 08-02-2009, 06:32 PM   #66  
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I had this same idea rolling around in my head as well but never asked and im glad someone is talking about this.

So has anyone tried this yet?
yes I installed a nozzle just past the plate between the adaptor plate and the motor lift mount. I had to us a right angle drill and really take my time to get the tap started straight.
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Old 08-02-2009, 06:37 PM   #67  
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What scares me is the posts about all these Common Rails melting pistons. I know I have enough fuel now to melt things down in a hurry and my twins are on the small side.
I'm thinking I could buy smaller nozzles and buy 3 port blocks and run three smaller nozzles on each pump all tapped into the plate above the intake ports.
Anyone care to comment?
that is similiar to what I did. I made a 6 port distrubation block out of a piece of 1" alum from work. welded the ends closed and drilled and tapped for my outlets. I have one line coming in from each pump for each 3 ports after some run time I had to block off the very back port feeding #6. I guess the water spraying for # 5 and #6 was too much for the back cylinder, instant miss when the water came on. my nozzles are 4.5 or 5 gph nozzles very small but they are located under the intake runner pointing directly towards the cylinders. I wil try to get a few pics but this night work for the state is killing my free time Rob
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Old 08-02-2009, 07:34 PM   #68  
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that is similiar to what I did. I made a 6 port distrubation block out of a piece of 1" alum from work. welded the ends closed and drilled and tapped for my outlets. I have one line coming in from each pump for each 3 ports after some run time I had to block off the very back port feeding #6. I guess the water spraying for # 5 and #6 was too much for the back cylinder, instant miss when the water came on. my nozzles are 4.5 or 5 gph nozzles very small but they are located under the intake runner pointing directly towards the cylinders. I wil try to get a few pics but this night work for the state is killing my free time Rob
Rob do you think we could drill and tap the intake plate to get the water in the areas needed?
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Old 08-02-2009, 07:41 PM   #69  
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Rob do you think we could drill and tap the intake plate to get the water in the areas needed?
one day we will have to meet and you can take a look and maybe a ride in my little turd wagon and I think it can be done just take your time.
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Old 08-03-2009, 03:44 PM   #70  
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one day we will have to meet and you can take a look and maybe a ride in my little turd wagon and I think it can be done just take your time.
Sounds good Rob, maybe at the next Shippensburg pull if your there!!
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Old 08-03-2009, 04:19 PM   #71  
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-----------------------------------------------------------------------
Ace:

No offense to you Sir, but I have read through the posts here between you and Robert (Rpainter) here and I find it strange that you don't seem to believe what he is saying.
No offense to you either, John, but I don't believe you understood what I said either:

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Are you running a sled puller or drag truck that is basically spraying water more or less constantly? If you had rust in the combustion chamber or nearby it was likely because you are spraying too much too soon or you system is not properly set up or malfunctioning in some way. Not because you need an anti-rust additive to the water.
Of course I believe a system spraying gallons of water at a go in a multi-nozzled in-the-head/manifold setup like you are talking about with otherwise untreated water could (obviously does) cause rust. What else would you expect?

Any system leaving unburt or unvaporized water in the engine after injection is ovbiously going to do this. And it follows of course, if you are going to do that, then you do need an anti-rust additive. And frequent oil changes. And the occasional rod and/or new block when an unintended side effect happens to occur after the miscalibrated or poorly designed system ventilates the cylinder wall with a rod for you.

You guys are on the hairy edge of experimentation with this stuff. Great - more power to you! I mean that literally.

If you ever get it "right" (and I use that term loosely - please define "right" however you choose to have your truck running, drinking, whatever), you will have all six cylinders runnnig cool at the same temp at WOT and no water leftover in your engine after a good spray. The anti-rust is a band-aid for a symptom nothing other than a throw-away engine should ever be subjected to.

Now please, also tell Bswope exactly how to get it right! (the way he likes it)
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Old 08-03-2009, 04:30 PM   #72  
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he told you that the rust was discovered when he only had the snow system installed with 2 nozzles only into the intake horn. same thing that I told you when it happened to me. Miss That Part????
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Old 08-03-2009, 04:35 PM   #73  
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Nope. You are obviously not listening to anything I've said, so I'll just agree to disagree, it's a matter of principle - Bye again!
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Old 08-03-2009, 04:37 PM   #74  
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Nope. You are obviously not listening to anything I've said, so - Bye again!
the best thing you have said yet Bye
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Old 08-03-2009, 04:38 PM   #75  
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he told you that the rust was discovered when he only had the snow system installed with 2 nozzles only into the intake horn. same thing that I told you when it happened to me. Miss That Part????
You wouldn't of had that problem if you're system was setup and properly employed with two nozzles. Sorry you couldn't then, and still cannot seem to get it "right." Maybe you are just upset because you guessed the wrong spots to drill your manifold?

Here you go: BYE!
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