Thats a normal reading for the Outlook monitor reading fooled MAP voltages from the data port. To validate you need to put a manual gauge on the manifold. If it feels better and you don't have massive amounts of black smoke with higher power actual boost is more than the monitor can see. They are noticeably flat when boost is limited.

 

Well no manual gauges here. I'd have to drill and tap the intake horn just to check it too. So that's out. I'll have to assume it's working as it should then.

Hopefully, I'll notice a slight drop in EGT's on this weekends tow through the Smokies. I'll take a hard look at the BDTD's tow mode and stock modes as well. I'll try not to get too excited about hitting 1250 before it kicks down a gear and runs 1000-1100 for those long stretches.

 

For your year truck, those #s are nothing to be concerned about...

 

Ahh....but where do I draw the line?
1250 sustained?
1350 sustained?
1450 sustained?

I have the BDTD set to back off at 1350 currently.

 

Oh No explains it well here. What I would add, is that this is even more true with those having a 04.5 engine and stock cam. The in cylinder EGR effect increases the heat time in the cylinder (for the purposes of a more complete burn thereby reducing nox) which, net effect, increases the chance for melting a piston.

 

Boost bolt in the manifold, no drilling required. If you so desire of course. You could just go to the auto parts store and get a cheap gauge for validation then take it back out one you know your numbers are good.

Thats as good a back down as any. Just realize that the BDTD is going to throw timing in there along with fuel. Thats the killer when you get into these 3 event systems. Not fine enough control. Chekc and see what the timing advance is with the differnet tunes on the BDTD and you will have a better picture of whats happening.

 

I wrote BD, but I doubt they respond. Wish someone here knew more about the timing on the different tunes. Buddy's...well...busy. LOL.

 

Why don't you run your truck with out a programmer, see where the temps hit and use that as the safety.

 

I was running it on the stock setting. So without a programmer shouldn't be any different really.

 

thanks for the response. do you recommend going back to all stock or is a little timing ok (i cant ever remember the odd numbering of the timing on the jr.) but timing 2 or 3?

i don't run program level 2 or 3 because it slips my clutch.

 

I run stock or 4 depending on weight cuz I am not sure what the timing has been set to on the Smarty REVO. These are suppoesed to be the lowest.

Originally it was TM 1,4,3,2 in order of timing advance. I have not seen what the new version is using so unsure.

Here is what the REVO TNT version is supposedly using. Most likely close to standard REVO but....

#1 12*

#4 16*

#3 18*

#2 21*

 

excellent. thanks for your help.

 

Well we're back from the Smokies. The trip went fine. Although I could use a transmission cooler or deeper pan if doing that much. I hit 240 once and pulled over for about 10 minutes to let it cool down. It was stop and go in the mountains, near 90 degrees, for hours. There were cars and trucks all over that had overheated. So I wasn't alone. When I'd break the top of a hill, there would be semi's pulled over cooling back down. It was hot...

Put the BDTD in tow mode. The boost fooler and intake horn did the trick. I let the motor lug all the way up to 1200, then I'd pump the peddle a smidge, and it would kick down a gear. If only going 55mph at the time, the EGT's would drop to 1050 and she'd hold 55 all day long then. The trucks a brute for sure. Probably more then the trans can take I'm sure. I ran the CAT scales at 24,020lbs. So I'm over weight for sure, but boy does that motor like it.

Thanks for the tips everyone.

 

Hmmm.. I just came through the smokie mountains going south 4-1-10 and north 4-11-10 and I scaled at the local farm prior to leaving and wieghed in at 23,360.
My EGTs pulling the long grades would hit 1250 to 1300. I was running 70 MPH at 2,250 RPMs on cruise control.
My Trans temp ran no higher that 190. In stop and go traffic in Atlanta I saw 205 or 210 max.
I had the Smarty set on SW5, wich is 90 HP.
Love this truck, makes driving very easy.

 

Yeah mine would hit that too if I let it. I just kicked it down when it got that high. I could then run 55-65 up the hill and not really see past 1050. You're smarty is doing boost fooling. That seems to help quite a bit.

As for the trans temps, you're 48RE is built. Mines stock. Prolly not for long with 24k behind her though I'd guess.