Fred has built A LOT of 47 & 48re transmissions. He used to build for a big name diesel performance company in Arvada, CO.

Branting does offer a triple disk converter as well, although the price is about the same as most other triple disk converters (b/w $1200-$1300.)

The one concern with the single disk converter is that it requires more pressure from the transmission to seat the lock-up disk than a triple disk converter requires. This can pose a problem for trucks that make +500HP as the engine produces enough torque at partial throttle to slip the disk in the converter. Where full throttle the pressure in the transmission is adequate to hold the torque.

 

Quick Update:

Got the truck back last night, but I didn't have much of chance to drive it. Drove it straight home and I LOVED IT! Drives noticeably different.

My trans guy said there were no issues at all with any of the install, he loved the flexplate. Said there was no run out, mounted up perfect and that the clearances were great. He said he won't put in another stock flexplate in any truck as long he can help it. He showed me the stock one and its crazy how think and flimsy it is compared to the PRW one. The PRW is probably 5 pounds heavier than the stock one.



Showed me the stock parts that we swapped out, showed me the rings that they took out and replaced in the transgo kit. Transgo ones are hi temp teflon ones and the stock ones are metal. Stock converter instead of having a nice billet face on it just has the mounting lugs welded to the front cover. Mine had some weird heat marks on the input hub, but it looked like they may have been there from when the factory cut the notches in the hub, because they didn't look like it could have been caused by the trans. Stock anchor and band strut are tiny, mostly the strut. Other than that he said everything looked good in the trans.

Like I said I didn't have much of a chance to drive it and I didn't drive it like normal because I was so excited. I will keep everyone updated as I do some more driving. Converter is tighter for sure and I just like the way it drives, its not extreme at all, it feels like it should have came this way from the factory. Not hard bangy shifts, not extreme or drawn out like riding in a hot rod. Just feels factory, but if the factory had done it right the first time.

 

If you can, find the "flash-stall" speed of the converter. How does the lock-up feel? Is it the "sling-shot" feeling most are looking for?

 

Anymore news or updates on how it feels

 

Had a chance to drive the truck a little bit yesterday and some on the way to work this morning. Overall I like the way it drives. Yesterday I didn't really drive it like normal, I was trying to work the trans in different ways to see if I could get any of the weird quirks like the 1-2 hunt etc.

Here are some more initial observations:

1) When you put the trans in gear now, you can really feel it. Forward or Reverse you can really feel it go into gear, not in a bad way its just firm. I'm guessing this is a result of both the increased pressure from the shift kit and the improved coupling of the converter.

2) All shifts in the transmission are much firmer. I wouldn't call them hard or bangy, but they are firm. I would say the 1-2 shift is the firmest. Converter lockup is smooth and doesn't have the huge RPM drop going into lock up that was present in the stock converter, again due to the better coupling.

3) I probably should have done a better job of writing down the rpm's at certain speeds before doing the trans, but it seems to take noticeably less throttle to achieve the same speeds.
I was driving on the highway @ 70mph yesterday and I could have sworn my truck with the stock converter was right around 2000 rpm. Well yesterday I was right @ 1800 rpm. Obviously at these speeds the converter is locked so that is why I don't understand the perceived rpm drop. SO either it was wishful thinking on my part or that in full lock up in the stock converter was slipping a small amount.

4) I mentioned that I was trying to get the 1-2 hunt and on 1 occasion I did get it. Again I was trying to get it, varying the throttle at low speeds. It was even more pronounced than before, but I'm sure that is due to the higher pressures and the firmer shifts. I didn't see it under any normal driving conditions, but I was able to get it. Most everyone else that has done the kit has said it completely disappeared for them so I am not sure if it just didn't work for me or what. This is one area that I will definitely keep an eye on.

5) There is another thread on this site about the transgo kit and one of the things we were discussing was a throttle spring that delays the upshift. I would say it is and it isn't noticeable. Seems to draw the 1-2 shift out later, the 2-3 is slightly later, but the 3-4 seems very similar.

I did not have time to test the "flash stall" speed this weekend, but I will try and get you a number this week. Overall I am happy with it. I am not really sure what I was expecting result wise from everything. The converter is definitely more responsive than the stock one, it is definitely not too tight for me. Would I like a tighter one? Well I don't really know, I spoke with Dave Goerend quite a bit when I was trans shopping and he has a ton of stator designs from very tight to very loose. He told me a lot of people once they get a converter tend to think that they want it tighter and he is happy to swap the converters out for them, but he said that 90% of the time the guys that swap to a tighter converter wish they would have stuck with what they had to start with. The Branting converter is tighter than stock for sure, even with the stock turbo I can tell that the turbo spool seems to be slightly, and I emphasize slightly, slower. I would guess that most people probably wouldn't even know it. Having said that I can see that as the tighter you make the converter the more it is going to change how the truck drives.

I think that as more time passes and the excitement wears off my normal driving habits will return and I will be able to give even more accurate reviews. I kind of had a tendency to play around a bit this weekend.

Please feel free to ask any questions you guys have and I will do my best to answer them truthfully.

 

what are you unsing for lock-up control?

 

I've been following this ,and decided to pull the trigger and build mine. anyone have any thoughts on raybestos stage 1 or blue plate frictions,? and any way to find out how tight were the tolerances your builder build to? and will did your builder follow transgo instructions exactly or did he tweak it a little?

 

Nothing, just factory.

Are you talking about the converter tolerances? If so I guess you could call and ask them, but I'm not sure they would tell you. Builder said he followed the instructions exactly.

 

If your valve body kit allows lock-up in 2nd gear, wire up a lock up switch and flip the switch I'm sure you'll like the way it feels. It is a sling shot effect when it does lock up. I have mine set to lock up around 30 mph.

 

That would not be surprising with a stock trans and 35" tires. Big no-no if one wantsthe transmission to stay functional.


The 3-4 shift is controlled by the ECU, the springs referenced will have no effect on that shift.

The 48RE has 2nd gear lockup from the factory.

However, unless the input shaft has been replaced with a billet unit a lockup controller and/or switch is a BAD idea. It will take one inadvertent throttle bump at low rpm's locked and no more go.

The stock 48RE is a pretty good unit for the most part but it won't take the TQ with a good TC hooked to it.

 

no I was aking about how tight he built the transmission .. He he biuld tight than service manual suggests?

 

Didn't change anything in the transmission other than what I stated in the previous posts, didn't get into the clutches etc. Builder did say that everything else in the trans looked great though.

 

You would be suprised what a stock input shaft will hold... 20psi 4wd launches were done every week with my old drag truck.

I just want to know if the lock-up is dynamic enough with a single disk to justify the cost difference b/w that and a triple disk. I know how triple disks feel and work, just want to spend the difference b/w the two on a cam...

 

sounds good!!! I know I need atleast intermediate band replaced. I think I'm going to pretty much go with the exact same set up. I find find some info on the difference on raybestos and alto frictions

 

Big difference between launching under fluid coupling and stressing an input shaft on a part throttle lockup burst. From broken input threads the bulk of them will be part throttle lockup blips and low r's and high TQ. You run a lockup controller on a street truck you BETTER have a billet input or you will be buying a new TC and probably a pump.

Depending on your power level, a single is not going to hold what a triple will with all else being equal. A top of the line high pressure DTT will hold a lot but they can be broke also. A single may work fine in something like Scott Benz's dragster but will get eaten quickly in a 7000 lb truck.

The power to weight relatonship and th einternal trans pressures is going to determine what you need.