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My Great Depression Revisited Budget Transmission Build Up

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Old 03-13-2009, 11:56 AM
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My Great Depression Revisited Budget Transmission Build Up

Well we all know that times are tough right now, but I still wanted to make some mods to my truck. Actually ever since I bought the truck new I wanted to do some transmission work to it, but the prices are ridiculously expensive. I know all the you get what you pay for etc and I know that the main builders out there do a great job, have great customer service, etc, but I also think that for a lot of people, myself included, what they are doing is overkill.

So after much research, I am going to take my chances and make some "improvements" to my transmission and since I figured I'm not the only one in the "my wants are bigger than my wallet" boat I would chronicle what exactly I am doing and the results, good or bad.

So here goes:

Current State and Any issues:

I've got about 27k miles on my truck right now. I have the mild 1-2 hunt at light throttle right now, even with the smarty unloaded. Other than that the trans shifts fine, but does not in any way put the power to the ground. WOT from stop results in the rpms pretty much flashing to redline and well, that's not where the power is made. One other issue I am anxious to see if it goes away or remains is ever since I put on the quad stuff or the smarty if you go WOT from a stop the truck will not build boost past 32psi or so even with boost fooling on. Quad worked with me personally a bunch on this and eventually the conclusion we came to was that the load being placed on the motor was not great enough for the truck to fuel correctly. Once the converter was locked and you were on the highway the truck makes 40psi+ easy.

Now on to what I am doing and its relative cost:
1) Billet Single Disc Convert from a manufacturer here in town that makes hundreds of thousands of converters each year. Talked with a few people that his converters locally as well as the owner of the company. Great rep, he custom cuts his own stators and sells them to other companies all over the US. Also has billet apply piston. He explained that the single disc helps to alleviate the need for a billet input, at least for me and my driving style. He also makes triples, but said he would never run a triple without a billet input. Cost $600

2) TransGo shift kit, my builder said he's had good luck with them and that the new 48re kit is very complete and well put together. Cost $70

3) Tool Steel Band Anchor and Band Strut. My Builder recommended them and I think Goerend does too. Cheap insurance for poor factory parts. $50 for both

4) Sonnax Billet intermediate servo cover with machined o ring groove. Again builder recommended. $21

5) Mag hytec pan, not a necessity, but I picked one up used for $175 so I couldn't pass.

6) Lastly I took the plunge and bought one of the PRW platinum flexplates. Builder and Converter manufacturer said this was a judgment call on my part. Neither like the stock one, but also understood I was on a budget and neither liked the price of the billet ones. So I'm gonna be the guinea pig for these. I called and spoke with PRW rep and he assured me they were of the highest quality and that if I had any problems they would be taken care of. Cost $140

7) Cost to remove trans install above parts and replace and fluid etc. $500


So there it is, all in an extremely long post. It should go in next week. Like I said I will be completely honest with the reviews. Total cost is right around $1600 start to finish, which is less than the cost of a Converter and Valve body from one of the big guys, and that is without install. I hope it all goes as planned.
Old 03-13-2009, 12:10 PM
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Let us know how it goes. I've been looking for info like this for awhile.
Old 03-13-2009, 01:54 PM
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Perfect for the power you are making. Similar to the power I am making and the trans setup I have minus the triple disc. I know some friends running 13's with single disk converters, though, so I think the triple is overkill for you and I.
Old 03-13-2009, 03:46 PM
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Just about the exact same build as mine. I opted for a billet input and use the stock flex plate for the "fuse". No need to drop thousands unless you are looking for big power. Enjoy the new truck.
Old 03-13-2009, 04:54 PM
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Maybe I missed it but who is putting it together? Not that it really matters. But if it is yourself then points to you. I am watching intently of your build.
Old 03-13-2009, 06:13 PM
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I am having a local guy put it all together. I've had him do work for me in the past on other vehicles. He's very good and stands behind what he does.

I'm pretty sure I could do it all, but it would be in my driveway on jackstands etc, so I don't mind paying the $500 to have him do it, saves me the hassle and I know it will get done right.

I'm sorry for the extremely long first post, just figured there might be a few people out there in the same boat as me and I wanted to be detailed. Often times on here transmission threads turn into a who's better war and it makes it seem like the only way to make your trans last is to spend the price of a small foreign car upgrading it.

The price I'm spending I think would be more affordable to most people. We'll see how it works out.
Old 03-13-2009, 09:49 PM
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Originally Posted by yelloz28
Well we all know that times are tough right now, but I still wanted to make some mods to my truck. Actually ever since I bought the truck new I wanted to do some transmission work to it, but the prices are ridiculously expensive. I know all the you get what you pay for etc and I know that the main builders out there do a great job, have great customer service, etc, but I also think that for a lot of people, myself included, what they are doing is overkill.

So after much research, I am going to take my chances and make some "improvements" to my transmission and since I figured I'm not the only one in the "my wants are bigger than my wallet" boat I would chronicle what exactly I am doing and the results, good or bad.

So here goes:

Current State and Any issues:

I've got about 27k miles on my truck right now. I have the mild 1-2 hunt at light throttle right now, even with the smarty unloaded. Other than that the trans shifts fine, but does not in any way put the power to the ground. WOT from stop results in the rpms pretty much flashing to redline and well, that's not where the power is made. One other issue I am anxious to see if it goes away or remains is ever since I put on the quad stuff or the smarty if you go WOT from a stop the truck will not build boost past 32psi or so even with boost fooling on. Quad worked with me personally a bunch on this and eventually the conclusion we came to was that the load being placed on the motor was not great enough for the truck to fuel correctly. Once the converter was locked and you were on the highway the truck makes 40psi+ easy.

Now on to what I am doing and its relative cost:
1) Billet Single Disc Convert from a manufacturer here in town that makes hundreds of thousands of converters each year. Talked with a few people that his converters locally as well as the owner of the company. Great rep, he custom cuts his own stators and sells them to other companies all over the US. Also has billet apply piston. He explained that the single disc helps to alleviate the need for a billet input, at least for me and my driving style. He also makes triples, but said he would never run a triple without a billet input. Cost $600

2) TransGo shift kit, my builder said he's had good luck with them and that the new 48re kit is very complete and well put together. Cost $70

3) Tool Steel Band Anchor and Band Strut. My Builder recommended them and I think Goerend does too. Cheap insurance for poor factory parts. $50 for both

4) Sonnax Billet intermediate servo cover with machined o ring groove. Again builder recommended. $21

5) Mag hytec pan, not a necessity, but I picked one up used for $175 so I couldn't pass.

6) Lastly I took the plunge and bought one of the PRW platinum flexplates. Builder and Converter manufacturer said this was a judgment call on my part. Neither like the stock one, but also understood I was on a budget and neither liked the price of the billet ones. So I'm gonna be the guinea pig for these. I called and spoke with PRW rep and he assured me they were of the highest quality and that if I had any problems they would be taken care of. Cost $140

7) Cost to remove trans install above parts and replace and fluid etc. $500


So there it is, all in an extremely long post. It should go in next week. Like I said I will be completely honest with the reviews. Total cost is right around $1600 start to finish, which is less than the cost of a Converter and Valve body from one of the big guys, and that is without install. I hope it all goes as planned.
I would be interested in his torque convertor for $600 Do you know any specs on it? Just don't have the $ for the others right now. Was considering an axiom that my local builder says was very good and a transgo shift kit.
Old 03-13-2009, 10:16 PM
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be careful on the tq conv. Some of those are good but will only handle 1000-1100ftlbs of torque so I would definately find out what they are rated for before buying. I did basically the same thing except I ordered my parts from Dave Goerend. His prices are good and I'm sure his converter is better but it will cost you a few hundred more and you can also add an extra clutch for very little money. Just my opinion
Old 03-13-2009, 11:17 PM
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The company is called Branting Industries. Like I said they aren't famous and they don't advertise. He didn't claim it was gonna hold 1500 ft lbs or anything like that.

I think most people get caught up in the bigger is better thing, started out with singles, then triples, ATS has the 5 disc, but do you really need it, some do, I don't, well I don't think so anyway.

Plus based on what I know and I could be wrong the disc or discs only really come into play in lock up. I was looking for a converter with better coupling, which is the design of the stators. The single disc takes less effort to spin as well, probably doesn't make a huge difference, but a difference none the less. The billet apply piston also helps to make sure that lock up is 100%.

Like I said I'm going to be honest about how everything goes and what I would do differently. I am a very picky person, I just figured good or bad this experience might be able to help some others.
Old 03-14-2009, 07:04 AM
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Sounds good, keep us updated. I'm thinking about doing shift kit, billet piston, and that other thing you talked about. I don't need to hold more power, but I'd like to firm up shifts and make the trans last longer.
Old 03-14-2009, 07:19 AM
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i'll also be interested in the outcome..im in the same boat as you, need better tranny setup but with kids in college, no money to play. Any idea how much torque and hp you are making now?
Old 03-14-2009, 08:14 AM
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Thanks for being willing to share. I've just recently had my truck start to do the 1-2 shift thing with 98k on the clock. I was looking at having a place not too far away put in some SunCoast parts. I think I'll wait to see how your adventure turns out. Thanks again!
Old 03-14-2009, 09:55 AM
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Yelloz, you will be happy with the single disc. I went with a Big single from Daco. Kevlar bands and clutches, Suncoast valve body. I have the Jr. and tow a lot. It is a perfect setup. I don't plan on racing or pulling, but for towing heavy loads the best money ever spent. My tranny holds in lock up and pulls thru all the gears now.
Old 03-14-2009, 10:08 AM
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Let us know how it goes man, I was thinking about doing the same thing im in wyoming and was gonna use a guy down in the denver area by the name of Fred, I can't remember his companies name, but seemed like a decent guy and was pretty much the same deal as yours but with a triple disk.

Let us know how it turns out.
Old 03-14-2009, 11:19 PM
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I to would be interested in more info on that TC. I just did a few mods to my tranny and left out the TC due to $. At that price i might be willing to afford one and place the finishing piece to my puzzle.


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