While the typical convention says that a single disk will not work, I will use farmboy's diesel's truck as an example. Gus runs a single disk in his truck, well above 700hp and a very quick 1/4mi time w/ a rather fast 60ft.

What do you mean by "part throttle lockup blips?" Part throttle produces less strain than full throttle @ the input shaft?

 

At what point do we need to get new clutches or expand the clutch pack with these 48res? Is it worthwhile to do this or only if i go in with high miles? I know the 48's have more clutches than other years but will t5he extra clutches help a 500-600hp truck?

 

Never said a single wouldn't work. I particularly referenced DTT's single TC's because they made them work extremely well where others couldn't.

Holding force of a TC is equation about surface area and pressure, its simple physics. Raise either one far enough and things work. A single has the benefit of being a lot lighter and easier to spin up also. In a straight line acceleration it is har dto beat, unless you over run the capabilities of it. A triple will simply hold more cuz it has more area and one can add as much pressure as a single. The downfall is they will spin up slower and it takes more TQ to get them going which could be transfered to the tires for acceleration. At some point you have more than enough power to overcome the loss and room for growth where the single is maxed.

Low ET's and fast 60 foot times are a function of getting the TQ on the ground and getting the traction to hold. This is where a single is at its best but most of that is fluid coupling not lockup.

Not if look at the TQ curves of an engine and factor in the acceleration physics its not. Shifts at higher rpm's have the benefit of rotational mass in motion and the amount of TQ has dropped significantly. The stresses generated to go from say 30 to 50 mph are higher than from 70 to 90 mph. The faster an object is moving the easier it is to accelerate it.

A lot o the guys I have talked to its been "yeah, I came around a corner about 35 mph and hit the throttle. When the lockup hit it went BANG!" Just get enough boost up to start fueling and have the lockup hit before there are enough r's and things break. Granted it was probbaly not the first time they did that very thing but it was the last time.

 

Rotational kinematics, torsion, stress concentrations, material work hardening, infinite fatigue limit, etc.......

I will spare the readers of this thread the long winded explanation of why input shafts do break, but like most things, input shafts breaking are situational.

With proper care taken in driving habit, a lock-up controller is a very nice thing to have, whatever the converter/input shaft/VB configuration may be.

Back to the topic at hand, Is this converter locking up firmly enough to hold your power level? And what are your power goals with the truck?

 

Thats what I have been saying all along? and that situation will quite likely include a lockup controller and a stock input shaft.

Its not a new concept but you asked.

 

lol! I drive that exact combination every day. Well I see someone wants to muck up this thread with unasked for information.

 

Back on topic, no other questions from anyone?

CSM I don't know how to tell you if the single is going to work for you or not. I anticipate that it is going to work fine for me. I don't plan on going much further than where I am right now. Sounds like you are planning on going pretty far with your truck, might be better to go all out on the trans.

I didn't really anticipate this build to be the budget build up to compete with the guys who have 7k in their trans. It was more focused on the guys like me that want to add a small amount of power and at the same time get the most out of it by modding the trans to support it. These mods should also effectively increase the life of the trans.

I can say for sure that the more I drive my truck the more I like it. It really should have came like this from the factory.

 

Yelloz28 did you drill the two holes for lock up or just the one? I am thinking only drilling the one hole and leaving in the stock shift spring instead of replacing it with the one that prolongs the shift points.

 

They drilled the 2 holes. When I talked to Transgo they told me to drill 2 holes if I was going to use an aftermarket converter.

As far as the spring goes, I think it is more of personal choice. They put it in and I am not unhappy with it, I think I could live with it either way.

 

Yelloz28:
Would maybe looking at a TS shift master, or a Dtt shift enhancer fix your hunt? it might be hunting because of mixed signals from your ecm and programmer,and pedal position.

Did you look at the TSB sent out by dodge and their solution to the huntÉ

Thanks for all your feedback on your tranny work. I have been following this post closely, and I am pretty sure i will be going the same route as you.

 

I wouldn't consider it a hunting problem at all. When I got it I was trying to get it, varying the throttle at low speeds. I would imagine that anyone could get it if they tried.

I have been trying to drive the truck as normal as possible the past few days and I am loving it. I haven't experienced any weird quirks at all.

I really wish this is the way the truck would have came from the factory. Acceleration is so much different than stock, the truck just goes. The speed increase matches the rpm increase in a linear fashion, it just works like it should have from dodge.

 

I am loving the new trans, everything is working great and it makes the truck much more enjoyable to drive and I loved driving it before.

 

I'm hoping to get the same smile you have. My parts should be here in a couple of days. I haven't ordered the TC yet.

 

Yelloz, I'm getting ready to order parts for a similar build and I may go 1 step further and add a billet input as well but before I do, do you have any updates to share? would you do anything different? Thanks