Modified camshaft sensor?
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From: Tomball, Texas
Did some research last night and found that the tone wheel has 60 teeth. So that's 6 degrees per tooth. So I would only need to move the sensor slightly less than half the distance per tooth.
MikeyB
MikeyB
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From: somewhere in northwestern ohio....Mansfield, Oh
I guess it has a built in degree wheel that will help a lot, now how far should we go. I hear some guys saying 10 degrees which I think would be to far and may cause some engine trouble. I think the 2 degree mark is a good place to start and slowly move it ,that would be 1/3 of a tooth , but I would think we could go at least 4 degrees. We do not want to burn a hole in a piston by going to much , could we tell by the EGT's or will the only way to tell be by the sound of the engine.I guess I'am thinking like a gas engine were you time it by ear by turning distributor until you get no ping on hard take offs. I guess we could back it up till MPG start going the other way also.
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From: In front of the black cloud, MO
It has to physically move the crankshaft position sensor because he says it is adjustable to the "maximum amount, or all the way back to stock" If it were electronically done, you would have to re-solder or re-wire something, and if that was the case, it would be much easier to get a timing box...
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From: Phoenix
Originally posted by WhiteSport600
It has to physically move the crankshaft position sensor because he says it is adjustable to the "maximum amount, or all the way back to stock" If it were electronically done, you would have to re-solder or re-wire something, and if that was the case, it would be much easier to get a timing box...
It has to physically move the crankshaft position sensor because he says it is adjustable to the "maximum amount, or all the way back to stock" If it were electronically done, you would have to re-solder or re-wire something, and if that was the case, it would be much easier to get a timing box...
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From: Cheyenne Wyoming
Just picked up a sensor from my local Cummins dealer and will send it in next week. Don't know how long the turn-around is but I am going to give it a try. I will post initial impressions and after the first full tank.
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From: Tomball, Texas
Good deal. Here's another place for reasonable priced crankshaft sensors.
http://makeitmopar.com/
MikeyB
http://makeitmopar.com/
MikeyB
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From: Klamath Falls, OR
Originally posted by blown32
Just picked up a sensor from my local Cummins dealer and will send it in next week. Don't know how long the turn-around is but I am going to give it a try. I will post initial impressions and after the first full tank.
Just picked up a sensor from my local Cummins dealer and will send it in next week. Don't know how long the turn-around is but I am going to give it a try. I will post initial impressions and after the first full tank.
Well have you tried it yet, or has anyone for that matter?
How is the power/mileage?
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From: Minnesota
Hate to do a "me too", but I am really interested in this one too.
Seems to me that the sensor and a free flowing muffler is about all a guy can do without voiding his warranty. Too bad Mopar Performance doesn't offer a better flowing air filter...
Seems to me that the sensor and a free flowing muffler is about all a guy can do without voiding his warranty. Too bad Mopar Performance doesn't offer a better flowing air filter...
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From: Cheyenne Wyoming
I sent the sensor off 5 July and should get it back this week. A buddy wants me to take my enclosed car trailer (flat front and near 5K empty) out to So Cal and pick up a 58 T-bird for him. So I will be able to give you a report on towing and mileage. We leave at the end of July so I will report initial instal and again when I return. Now I get about 9mpg towing this trailer so any gain (if it gains) will help.
Forgot to mention, I am taking tools and the stock sensor with me just in case! Also taking the drop-in AFE filter out and adding a homemade torque tube and a BHAF before the trip.
Forgot to mention, I am taking tools and the stock sensor with me just in case! Also taking the drop-in AFE filter out and adding a homemade torque tube and a BHAF before the trip.
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From: s.e. okla
may be able to achieve this with a variable resistor in line i.e a splice and experiment se e if the pcm wants to see more or less voltage to do the advance if this works it may be possible to do in cab and different advance on hiway verses in town
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Originally posted by glen
may be able to achieve this with a variable resistor in line i.e a splice and experiment se e if the pcm wants to see more or less voltage to do the advance if this works it may be possible to do in cab and different advance on hiway verses in town
may be able to achieve this with a variable resistor in line i.e a splice and experiment se e if the pcm wants to see more or less voltage to do the advance if this works it may be possible to do in cab and different advance on hiway verses in town
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From: North Pole, Alaska
Don't think the resistor thing will work...
Glen,
Unforutnately, I don't think your resistor idea will work... because if these crank sensors are anything like 98% of the gas crank or cam sensors I have dealt with, they are 'basically' digital... The ECM is looking for a hi and a low signal. Hi when a tooth is in front of the sensor and a low when nothing or a gap is in front of the sensor or vice versa, basically a proximity sensor for you engineer types... Now I'm not saying it is truly digital, 0v and +Xv, for instance, the crank and cam sensors on my Buick are like +2.xx volts when they see the wheel and +7.xxx when they see the gap in the wheel.
What I'm getting at here is that if some sort or resistance device, be it a resistor or pot, were put inline, I would bet that the ECM wouldn't care for it too much, because the signal voltage possibly might never break above the hi threshold when it picked up the tone wheel and the ECM assume the sensor was dead or bad, CODE CITY!
My money is on physical relocation/adjustment....
Just my $.0000002
Unforutnately, I don't think your resistor idea will work... because if these crank sensors are anything like 98% of the gas crank or cam sensors I have dealt with, they are 'basically' digital... The ECM is looking for a hi and a low signal. Hi when a tooth is in front of the sensor and a low when nothing or a gap is in front of the sensor or vice versa, basically a proximity sensor for you engineer types... Now I'm not saying it is truly digital, 0v and +Xv, for instance, the crank and cam sensors on my Buick are like +2.xx volts when they see the wheel and +7.xxx when they see the gap in the wheel.
What I'm getting at here is that if some sort or resistance device, be it a resistor or pot, were put inline, I would bet that the ECM wouldn't care for it too much, because the signal voltage possibly might never break above the hi threshold when it picked up the tone wheel and the ECM assume the sensor was dead or bad, CODE CITY!
My money is on physical relocation/adjustment....
Just my $.0000002