3rd Gen High Performance and Accessories (5.9L Only) Talk about Dodge/Cummins aftermarket products for third generation trucks here. Can include high-performance mods, or general accessories. THIS IS FOR THE 5.9L ONLY!

Machining H2's a little differently

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Old Sep 25, 2009 | 06:39 PM
  #31  
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if i remember right i paid 125 bucks to get both the center whole and the cap area machined at a local shop.
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Old Sep 25, 2009 | 06:55 PM
  #32  
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I've done a couple sets for fellow chapter friends.
Here's a link to how to do it.
http://towrig.com/hummerh2wheelupgrade.shtml
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Old Sep 25, 2009 | 07:30 PM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by scottsjeeprolet
I've done a couple sets for fellow chapter friends.
Here's a link to how to do it.
http://towrig.com/hummerh2wheelupgrade.shtml

Mmmm, I though this was a thread on how to do it¿?
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Old Sep 25, 2009 | 07:42 PM
  #34  
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If you just alter the caps a bit they will pop right on with or without the Dynatrac kit.

https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...7&d=1205096878

https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...6&d=1205096878
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Old Sep 25, 2009 | 07:49 PM
  #35  
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I'm having a hard time finding a set that people are not trying to sell like they are some brand new Rockstars or something. 3 and 4 hundred per wheel... pfft, yea right.
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Old Sep 25, 2009 | 09:32 PM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by Fisherguy
Mmmm, I though this was a thread on how to do it¿?
What part of the link that tells you how to do it don't you get?
Or you could have just added to this thread instead of starting another one of the same thing.
https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...ghlight=hummer
I've done 3 sets by using the link. Not all of us have access to a CNC. i have a mill.
Cutting the caps and grinding the tabs works great too and none have fallen off.
I did this set for Mike. He has since sold the truck, turned out nice.
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Old Sep 25, 2009 | 09:59 PM
  #37  
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Pardon?
I didn't say I didn't get it, I'm really not sure what you're getting at bud.

What does how many you've done have to do with anything? Not everyone has access to a milling machine either, so what's your point?

We're all using different methods to get the H2' to fit, I chose to machine the wheel rather than trim the caps cuz I think it's better and thought I'd do a detailed step by step thread on it which no one here has done before (far as I know) and no one else has compained about and now you're criticizing me for that¿?

Wow!
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Old Dec 17, 2010 | 04:40 PM
  #38  
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Hey fisherguy, in this photo here it looks like that beveled edge around the center hole was machine out when you did the 4.78" cut. Is that right or just the angle of the photo?

Have you had any problem with balancing? I read other places that bevel needs to be there so that tapered cone sets the wheel right on the balancing machine. Is that true?

Reason I'm curious is the set of H2s I've got here that came "machined" look like they were done with a hole saw. That bevel around the center hole is pretty much gone. I'm planning to straighten the hole out but wondering if I'll run into problems without a bevel.


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Old Dec 17, 2010 | 10:43 PM
  #39  
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The bore and chamfer need to be “on center” for proper balancing…

On the few sets I did I put a .060x45* chamfer back on…I also used a lathe instead of a mill…
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Old Dec 18, 2010 | 07:52 AM
  #40  
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Originally Posted by willysrule
The bore and chamfer need to be “on center” for proper balancing…

On the few sets I did I put a .060x45* chamfer back on…I also used a lathe instead of a mill…

Thanks for the specs on that. My next step finding out what that was.
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Old Dec 18, 2010 | 11:23 AM
  #41  
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Originally Posted by Shorts
Hey fisherguy, in this photo here it looks like that beveled edge around the center hole was machine out when you did the 4.78" cut. Is that right or just the angle of the photo?

Have you had any problem with balancing? I read other places that bevel needs to be there so that tapered cone sets the wheel right on the balancing machine. Is that true?

Reason I'm curious is the set of H2s I've got here that came "machined" look like they were done with a hole saw. That bevel around the center hole is pretty much gone. I'm planning to straighten the hole out but wondering if I'll run into problems without a bevel.

If you're going to do it low tech by using a hole saw then yes, for sure you'd want to make sure to leave the bevel in place, same as using a router, but we centered the wheels on the machine before we started. I've never had a problem balancing the tires.
I can't see anyone doing an accurate job with a hole saw, hope they work out for you. Maybe you should take them to someone with a CNC or something to make sure the holes are centered?
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Old Dec 18, 2010 | 01:27 PM
  #42  
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Originally Posted by Fisherguy
If you're going to do it low tech by using a hole saw then yes, for sure you'd want to make sure to leave the bevel in place, same as using a router, but we centered the wheels on the machine before we started. I've never had a problem balancing the tires.
I can't see anyone doing an accurate job with a hole saw, hope they work out for you. Maybe you should take them to someone with a CNC or something to make sure the holes are centered?

Yeah, I'm thinking about that, running them to a shop to get them measured and cleaned up. I don't care that they hole-sawed the job, they just did a bad job with the least acceptable method.

Thanks!
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