3rd Gen High Performance and Accessories (5.9L Only) Talk about Dodge/Cummins aftermarket products for third generation trucks here. Can include high-performance mods, or general accessories. THIS IS FOR THE 5.9L ONLY!

Machining H2's a little differently

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Old Apr 17, 2009 | 09:04 PM
  #16  
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From: Surrey BC Canada (it's not that bad eh!)
Originally Posted by CampingMan
niice, the way the dodge should look like. Maybe if I do enough driving & camping this year I can wear out my stock BFG's and get something a little bigger too

A side question . . .. where have you been picking all your goodies? (Exhaust brake, Bilsteins, etc) Picking them up south of the border or have you found a good retailer up here?

thx
315's on H2's and leveling have been the plan since day 1 but there was more important (and cheaper) things on the list first.
After 3 years it finally looks the way I want, the boat rack is pretty ugly though...

I got the ex brk cheaper through Lary at this site than I could directly from PacBrake 10 minutes from my house, they wouldn't even budge on their price when my bud who owns a shop called them. (Having said that Harold who is the service manager there and DTR member has helped me out a couple times and is a real good guy to deal with, I got my airbags through him); I got the Billsteins and levelling from a local place through my buds shop; clutch from Harry at Peak Performance in Langley, he's a good **** & gave me a good deal; gauges, AD etc from the US (AD from 53Willys), have got lotsa stuff (BDTD, S&B, lights and bar etc) through the classifieds here. I have a bud just over the border, i have stuff sent there then go pick it up, some places won't ship up here.

Luckily my honey bunny lets me spend my overtime however I want, what better way than fishing gear and diesel goodies!
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Old Apr 18, 2009 | 03:10 PM
  #17  
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From: Pensacola, Fl
Looks good! I need access to a shop like that!!
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Old Apr 18, 2009 | 06:31 PM
  #18  
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Look really nice.....machining the wheels, IMHO is the only option.

I took my to an industrial machine shop and had mine bored out to 4.774"






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Old Apr 28, 2009 | 10:47 PM
  #19  
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Good writeup and pictures.

When I installed my H2 wheels a couple years ago my buddy at the machine shop was able to mill my centers with the tires still mounted on the rims.

I installed my factory Dodge center caps the easy way by just using the stock H2 lug nuts installed on top of the stock Dodge lug nuts.
The H2 lug nuts are a different thread size but they went on the very end of my exposed wheel studs just enough to get tight.
The I just bent the Dodge center cap tangs in a little bit and they popped right on and were good and tight.
The center caps have stayed put for over 2 years now.



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Old Apr 28, 2009 | 10:58 PM
  #20  
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From: Surrey BC Canada (it's not that bad eh!)
Talking

Yeah, I've heard of the double nutting thing but Kanucklehead was looking forward to trying to mill that part and who was I to keep him from that?!

Nice looking truck Bee, those BW flares?
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Old Apr 29, 2009 | 12:01 AM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by Fisherguy
Yeah, I've heard of the double nutting thing but Kanucklehead was looking forward to trying to mill that part and who was I to keep him from that?!

Nice looking truck Bee, those BW flares?

Thanks.
Yes they are Bushwacker OE flares.
Used with modified factory splash guards they do a great job of keeping the 315's from throwing mud and stuff all over my truck.
Attached Thumbnails Machining H2's a little differently-truckdiesel1.jpg  
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Old Jun 13, 2009 | 05:48 PM
  #22  
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From: Holland
What lug nut's do you use on the H2 rims?
The stock dodge nuts?? Or hummer nuts?
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Old Jun 13, 2009 | 06:58 PM
  #23  
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From: Surrey BC Canada (it's not that bad eh!)
You stock lugnuts, the GM's have a different thread.
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Old Jun 14, 2009 | 12:09 AM
  #24  
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From: Holland
Ok thanks
Then we've used the correct ones
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Old Jun 14, 2009 | 08:45 AM
  #25  
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I lost a centercap after cutting and install.
I now dab a little silicon on the inside of the centercap at the lug points and let it set up overnight. When you pull the centercaps off, you'll feel the silicon sealing it, but they'll pull off. Gauranteed not to come off while driving.
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Old Jun 14, 2009 | 11:56 AM
  #26  
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From: Surrey BC Canada (it's not that bad eh!)
Originally Posted by Dan_K
I lost a centercap after cutting and install.
I now dab a little silicon on the inside of the centercap at the lug points and let it set up overnight. When you pull the centercaps off, you'll feel the silicon sealing it, but they'll pull off. Gauranteed not to come off while driving.
That was after trimming the cap or machinung the wheel where the cap sits like I did?
Either way I think you need to trim the back of the tabs that lock onto the lug nuts so they can get a good grip.
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Old Aug 22, 2009 | 11:38 AM
  #27  
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From: CA
FYI I had to machine mine out to 4.835 to clear my Dynatrac free spin kit. i also machined the wheels to make the dodge caps fit after seeing your pics (8.5in) thanks for the write up
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Old Aug 22, 2009 | 02:20 PM
  #28  
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From: Surrey BC Canada (it's not that bad eh!)
Bo problem...
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Old Sep 23, 2009 | 11:01 PM
  #29  
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Ok so I get what has to be done to the center to make the wheels fit, but what is it that has to be done that makes the caps fit? Isn't the problem that the tabs dont lock to the nuts? or is it the lip gets in the way so the cap doesnt go down far enough to grab the nut and lock in place?

What does it cost to have a machine shop turn thr wheels to the right size?
The H2's will rub if you do not have at least a leveling kit right?
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Old Sep 23, 2009 | 11:32 PM
  #30  
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From: Surrey BC Canada (it's not that bad eh!)
The caps are too wide to fit into the wheel's recessed area around the lug nuts so we machined that area to be a little wider. Compare te 2nd picyure to the 5th one, see the difference?
What other guys do is trim the cap so it sits on the raised area so the tabs go down far enough to reach the lug nuts.

People have run 35's on them without having any rubbing issues on a truck that's not lifted. I don't think Killer Bee's truck above has the front raised at all.

I'm not sure what a machine shop would charge but other people have used a router to open up the hub area and say it works well.
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