I found this over at TDR, been reading about all of the hummer wheel swaps, so I thought some of you may find this of interest. Very informative, with a few very good pictures. He also did a real nice job explaining how to trim the center caps, with pictures.

Here is the link to the wheels:
http://home.comcast.net/%7Ehoot74/do...h2install.html

Here is the link to his main page, more interesting stuff here:
http://home.comcast.net/%7Ehoot74/dodge/

Mike

 

Nice work by Hoot - But I would rather use Wetspirits measurement for the centercap - hoot - .90 - 1.0" versus wetspirits .75"

 

good write up but i dont think too many people have that kinda machine shop access.
ALSO, his warning about power tools and to wear gloves is WRONG!!!! i worked in a machine shop and let me tell you there was no no-no like wearing gloves. gloves and power tools with blades spinning fast just ask to get tangled and pulled. your hands in them or not. Better to get a bad cut than to mangle/lose your hole hand! Heck id rather have a finger get cut off nice and neat ready for reattchment than get my whole hand caught in a motor with some torque!

 

I definetly agree with Ramtough, after being there first hand, I agree. My welding glove got caught in a 4.5" angle grinder and nearly taking off my ring and middle finger. If I hadn't been wearing a glove, I'd prolly just have a deep cut in my middle finger right below the first joint, and instead, I got torn cartalidge in my pinki and ring finger that took 2 operations to get right.

 

The only thing I don't agree with in that excellent write-up is the idea of these wheels being "hub centric". I don't mean to start a big war here, but it seems clear to me that if the center hole has a few thousandths clearance, and the nuts are torqued, that the nuts are supporting the wheel and centering it. The center hole is not. A close center hole clearance helps get the nuts started but does not support the weight or center the wheel. If the center hole holds the wheel to a different center than the lug nuts want, as they are tightened into tapered holes, there will be tremendous strain on the wheel and problems. Remember, many aftermarket wheels use a large clearance hole for the hub that is not intended to fit the hub precisely. Clearance is what is needed, not a precise fit.
Also, this procedure can be done at home by those comfortable with using a Hole Hawg drill. It is quick and easy. The machine shop can definately cut a cleaner hole, but for those not wanting to go that route, there is a nice alternative. I did mine this way, have about 34,000 miles on the set now, have been rotating them to different positions, and have no trouble. I drive it fast, I bang it around off road, I carry heavy loads, no problem. I also have another set of H2s waiting to go and will do the same next time.

Wetspirit

 

Well said Wetspirit, I too have done two sets this way and couldn't be happier. Didn't we discuss this last year?

 

Jerry R,

Yes, we ran this into the ground, big time. It still bugs me.

Wetspirit

 

Wetsprit...

Does the Hummer wheels use the standard style lugnut with the tappered end?

I tend to agree with you (big suprise huh?! ). If there is any clearance between the hole and the hub then the wheels are not hub-centric. For hubcentricity the difference between the two would have to be around 0.001" at the most. At least that is what I think.

 

Papa Perk,

You use the Dodge lug nuts on the H2 wheels. Same design. They even hold the caps.
Are you thinkig of trying a set?

Wetspirit

PS. We can always find something else to argue about.

 

Wetspirit,

Nah I don't think I will be trying H2 wheels anytime soon. I still need a topper, steps, and maybe flares first. I have never taken my wheels off yet. So I don't know what the lugs look like. Are they tapered?

Oh I agree again. I am sure they will be something we can debate!

 

Papa Perk,


Sorry I didn't answer more clearly. Yes, they are tapered lug nuts. Seems to me the wheel must come to a center dictated by those eight big tapered nuts. There is zero play when the lugs are tight (obviously) so even a very small clearance in the center hole would never apply any load to the hub. Before the wheel could move enough to touch the hub the nuts have failed somehow. Even with no play in the center hole, the wheel would not apply any load to the hub since the nuts are tightly forced into the tapers. No movement can begin till the tapers or nuts somehow fail.

I used to have a set of wheels on another truck that had a kind of flat washer arraingement behind the lug nuts. No taper. I hated that design and I think it's fair to call it "hub centric". The nuts had a tendency to work themselves loose over time too. Poor design.

Wetspirit

 

I was taught that if the lugs were tapered the the wheels are lug-centric!!!!