Head stud install and valve adjustment tools list
#1
Registered User
Thread Starter
Head stud install and valve adjustment tools list
I am getting close to doin my head studs and I know I will need to adjust my valves while I am there. My question is, what tools will I need for the job. The more detailed the better, but I am looking more for any specialty tools I may need. Also where is a good place to get a set of guages to make sure my vavle lash is spot on?
thanks
thanks
#3
Tools
I just did mine.
I turned to TDC using breaker bar with 15mm deep socket. I used bolts
on vibration damper to turn. 14mm to loosen rocker. 5mm allen to
adjust stud. I used angle feeler gauges to ajust lash. My truck is 05
I set intake .010 and .020 exhaust.
I turned to TDC using breaker bar with 15mm deep socket. I used bolts
on vibration damper to turn. 14mm to loosen rocker. 5mm allen to
adjust stud. I used angle feeler gauges to ajust lash. My truck is 05
I set intake .010 and .020 exhaust.
#6
Winner winner chicken dinner!
Or even easier you can take a large screw driver and turn the flexplate thru the inspection plate. I bought a barring tool, but after Tim showed me this trick the barring tool stays in the tool box. Whatever way you like will work, I didnt like trying to turn the harmonic balancer. I was afraid I was going to break one of the bolts.
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#9
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Guys using the crank bolts or fuel pump nut is asking for trouble. Yes I know it works but you can overtorque the fuel pump gear nut even if the engine turns freely.
You can also untorque the gear nut on the CP3 pump by going counter clockwise with it even if the engine turns....the reason I know this is because when I remove a CP3 nut I just use a half inch ratchet and after a couple turns it is completely untorqued.
Using crank bolts can result in over torquing and also will often result in rounding off or marring of the crank bolt itself. Another thing to watch out for is the obvious slight untorquing of the crank bolt which can result in an airborne damper often causing severe crankshaft damage and possible catastrophic engine failure.
I wouldnt take the chance...Just spend the $50 and get a barring tool. Snap on SPX/OTC carries them.
You can also untorque the gear nut on the CP3 pump by going counter clockwise with it even if the engine turns....the reason I know this is because when I remove a CP3 nut I just use a half inch ratchet and after a couple turns it is completely untorqued.
Using crank bolts can result in over torquing and also will often result in rounding off or marring of the crank bolt itself. Another thing to watch out for is the obvious slight untorquing of the crank bolt which can result in an airborne damper often causing severe crankshaft damage and possible catastrophic engine failure.
I wouldnt take the chance...Just spend the $50 and get a barring tool. Snap on SPX/OTC carries them.
#11
Registered User
Thread Starter
Guys using the crank bolts or fuel pump nut is asking for trouble. Yes I know it works but you can overtorque the fuel pump gear nut even if the engine turns freely.
You can also untorque the gear nut on the CP3 pump by going counter clockwise with it even if the engine turns....the reason I know this is because when I remove a CP3 nut I just use a half inch ratchet and after a couple turns it is completely untorqued.
Using crank bolts can result in over torquing and also will often result in rounding off or marring of the crank bolt itself. Another thing to watch out for is the obvious slight untorquing of the crank bolt which can result in an airborne damper often causing severe crankshaft damage and possible catastrophic engine failure.
I wouldnt take the chance...Just spend the $50 and get a barring tool. Snap on SPX/OTC carries them.
You can also untorque the gear nut on the CP3 pump by going counter clockwise with it even if the engine turns....the reason I know this is because when I remove a CP3 nut I just use a half inch ratchet and after a couple turns it is completely untorqued.
Using crank bolts can result in over torquing and also will often result in rounding off or marring of the crank bolt itself. Another thing to watch out for is the obvious slight untorquing of the crank bolt which can result in an airborne damper often causing severe crankshaft damage and possible catastrophic engine failure.
I wouldnt take the chance...Just spend the $50 and get a barring tool. Snap on SPX/OTC carries them.
Thanks, I think I will heed that advice.
Trik, if you see one of those sets let me know. I looked for one, but couldnt find it.
Is there a certain brand of Feeler guages, I should get?
Is a "clicker" tq wrench ok, or is there a better one I should get?
#12
Registered User
Here's the listing I bought it from... maybe the seller can help you.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...6585525&rd=1,1
Doing more research on studs and I've come to the conclusion that more ARP lube is necessary than they provide. I ordered more thru Jetpilot. Also, the quality and calibration of your torque wrench is very important. WaynesWorld snapped two ARP studs and then one stock head bolt... at 125lbs... at least that's what his wrench told him. I'm looking to invest in something better than my 10 year old craftsmen. I think this is one of the cases that you really get what you pay for. I'm looking at CDI (I think that's snap-on). Unless some locally wants to loan me theirs...
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...6585525&rd=1,1
Doing more research on studs and I've come to the conclusion that more ARP lube is necessary than they provide. I ordered more thru Jetpilot. Also, the quality and calibration of your torque wrench is very important. WaynesWorld snapped two ARP studs and then one stock head bolt... at 125lbs... at least that's what his wrench told him. I'm looking to invest in something better than my 10 year old craftsmen. I think this is one of the cases that you really get what you pay for. I'm looking at CDI (I think that's snap-on). Unless some locally wants to loan me theirs...
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