When you guys hook up your gauges, where do you hook the wires to? I would say a mild amount of gauges would be in my future, fuel pressure and boost, any others? (although I sure as heck aint gonna be drilling into my exhaust manifold!!) but I am very limited to any electrical knowledge, anything with wires! . After you find a suitable place to mount the gauges, where do the wires go to? ECM? And I would assume it would require either/or the drilling into/ removal of the dash. Seeing how I am famous for never being able to put things back the way they started, I would be nervous about starting this project. (As well as fuel tank vent mod)

 

Most companies have great directions on installing gauges. I've put two sets into 2004 trucks and I've never had to remove the dash. I like to use the SRT-10 pod and the dual mount steering pod. I believe Diesel Manor has their kits available with all the wiring you will need and pretty good instuctions. I wouldn't be afraid to drill a hole in the exhaust manifold. That's the most accurate place to put the gauge. That is usually the easiest part of the install for me now. You can run the wires through the factory wire harness hole on the driver's side of the truck.

Good luck!

 

My only recommendation is go to your local parts store and buy a $7.00 magnet that will go into the hole that you dirillin your manifold. I did that and was thankful. It is very simple. I just grease on the tip of the bit and the magnet and it all went well.

 

The EGT pyro is, IMHO the most important gauge you can have, so I'd do one of those.

Pyros will likely come with a little "brain" box to which the wires from the pyro probe connect, and it will need keyed power. Most folks just tap into the wires that power the cig. lighter socket.

The pyro, and whatever other gauges will also need their lighting hooked up, which is just a matter of tapping into the wire for the dash lights at the headlight switch, and a negative/ground. If your gauges didn't come with directions that say, you can find the color of the right wire by searching here, but it is still a good idea to probe the wire with a pin, and verify with a volt meter that it is the correct one (voltage varies with dimmer movement).

Lastly, whenever you tap into the truck's wiring, I'd suggest stripping a section without cutting the factory wire, and soldering to it. Then pick the wire out of the connector if you can, and heat shrink it. Then there's no chance of something corroding, not making good contact, or pulling apart like there could be with those clamp on taps.

P.S. I second the suggestion about using a magnet...

 

Just to be careful...I went through the hassle of removing the exhaust manifold. It's not for everyone, but thos who do remove it, ensure there are no particulates that will affect the turbo.

I also recommend using a relay and fuse block...like what you'd find on Genos' Garage relay switched power block. I tapped into the cigarette lighter plug...it's switched on/off with the ignition, and gave me several other circuits to use for future accessories.

Also, the Autometer NV series use pretty good transducers for temp & pressure. They're not sending units...they are transducers. A HUGE difference in gauge accuracy & performace.

Tony

 

Hey Triplenickle
I live about 20 mins from you and I have a full set of gauges in my truck (2004.5)pyro,boost,trans temp,real oil pressure,fuel pressure.Your welcome to look at and I,ll help you out with any info that I can.It,s really not a big deal but is does take some time if you want a neat install.And drilling exhaust manifold is not the mystery its made out to be,just tape about half the tail pipe opening start truck then drill and tap,chips blow out not in (just wear glass,s) it really doesnt get that hot at an idle
Jeff

 

Thanks guys for the info so far.. Whada, I'll send ya a pm in the next day or so, but now its off to bed, gotta get up @ 3 to head off to Conesus Lake, the bass are callin my name, and of course, for the "ring of fire" mon. nite.

 

If you dont install them yourself, be careful who you take it to LOL I took mine to a local diesel shop here in town because I didn't have time to mess with the gauges while working out of town. Needless to say when I came back and picked up my truck, they had ran a line for the fuel pressure straight into my truck without an isolator, so I had raw diesel fuel pumping into my truck cab, and also I specifically told them to mount the pyro in the exhaust manifold and I pop the hood and it is drilled and tapped in the elbow on the exhaust...... Fu$$in Idiots !!!! Needless to say, I got my money back and redid everything myself. One thing I did was tie the gauge lights into my dimmer switch inside the cab, that way I can dim the lights at night inside and the gauge lights work along with it.

 

Matt,

Can you elaborate on the SRT-10 pod, and dual mount steering pod? I'm not familiar with these.

 

I know you asked Matt, but since I'm on line...

The SRT-10 pod is a replacement for the A-Pillar cover that has a place for one gauge. It's a Mopar part for the SRT-10 Ram, and it's popular because it is an exact match for the rest of the interior, and allows you to keep the grab handle. There are aftermarket A-Pillar covers for 2 or 3 gauges, but you loose the grab handle.

I have my pyro in an SRT-10 pod, and I think there is a photo in my gallery.

Steering wheel pods attach to, or replace the upper half of the steering column cover, with a place for one or two gauges frog-eyed on top.

Other options are a pod on top of the dash, or mounting gauges in one of the cubby holes in the dash...

 

Thanks, Jeff! Those are some great ideas on where to mount some more gauges.

Michael