4x4not

OK, so I FINALLY got some time to install my South Bend ConFE into the NV5600. It was long overdue because the stocker clutch was starting to slip even with the Juice OFF while getting on it. Got a guy from work to help out, and we started at 7am. Everything was going OK, but it seemed like the smallest little things were holding us up. The first big obsticle was that stupid exhaust hanger that bolts to the bell housing. The only way I could find to get it out of the way was to remove the exhaust. I tried for a while to force it out of the way, but it wasn't budging. Tried loosening the clamps at the turbo, but nothing. I eventually got PO'd and just got the torch and bent the hanger out of the way. Toasted the bushing, but it was SUPER LOOSE in the first place.
Here comes my first question:
DO I really need that front "hanger"? It seems that since it is less than a foot from there the exhaust clamps to that down pipe, the exhaust can't budge anyway.

The tiny little pilot bearing also took us 2 hours (that includes lunch) to get out because the first tool I rented from Checker was WORTHLESS. I should have gone right to Autozone and got their's but instead tried in vain to get the POS Checker version to work. Got that AZ one... 2 minutes and it was out! Once that was taken care of the next hardest part was just getting the tranny back in. But a lot of cursing and fiddling later, it was back in.

Anyway, skip forward past some boring stuff, and 11 hours of hand-smashing, head bashing later... everything was buttoned back up. Since it was running late yesterday the guy who was helping me left, and I washed up. Went back out at 8:30pm to finally test her out, and when I pushed the clutch in it went right to the floor! I immediately knew that my helper had bolted the slave cylinder back in wrong. I figured "no big deal, I'll get it tomorrow morning. I'm too tired to get under the truck now". Well this morning I noticed a puddle under the truck and again, I immediately knew what happened... the piston popped out of the slave. Great... I just opened up a system that was never meant to be bled. It popped the piston back in and it seemed OK. Well, anyway, I called back the guy who helped me and he came back to help bleed the system as best we could. Ended up removing the slave cylinder and pumping it from under the truck, by hand, and adding fluid as it was sucked back down. This worked OK, but eventually the system stopped sucking it in. Took us almost 2 hours, but I got the pedal firm enough to drive the truck. No fluid was leaking from the slave cylinder, so I think the piston is OK. It still doesn't feel right though.
So here is question 2:
Does anyone know of a better way to force more air out of that system? I'm considering getting the upgraded hydraulic system from South Bend, but I haven't decided yet because I'd like to get the stock system right first and see if I like it.

Pooter

I cant help you on the hydraulics, but, id leave the exhaust hanger/trans mount, just because without it, you are putting alot of the weight/flex onto the turbo itself, instead of having a point to keep it from flexing much at(even though theres play in it)
Its a royal pain, but I buttoned mine back up when I did my lift install(have to pull the downpipe to get the pass/upper control arm bolt out)


One note on the hydraulics, when I did the trans swap on my '97, I rigged up a little bracket to keep the piston from coming all the way out, I dont know what happens, but I was told dont let it pop out....
I used something like this(left), with two bolts/nuts to keep the piston from poping out.

4x4not

That's a good idea on the slave cylinder so that I don't have to keep bolting it back up to the trans. If I wasn't sick as a dog right now I'd be out there trying to get it right again.

As for that exhaust mount, mine was so loose and sloppy that it couldn't have been doing much. I think I bend the hanger back and try to rig up something better, maybe out of poly instead of rubber?

matego

For the hydraulics, get one of those hand vacuum pumps and a rubber cork that fits where the reservoir cap goes. Put it under 15in vacuum for 1/2 hour and top off the fluid. The vacuum will draw any air out of the fluid. It is also a very good thing to do to your brakes if you dont have someone there to help you.

For the pilot bearing, all you needed was a socket that fit the hole and beat it from the back side. You needed the bearing out anyway to resurface the flywheel.

I just bent the rod out a little on the exhaust and bent it back in after I removed the bracket. It wasnt even a big deal, but all trucks are different.

1stGen545

I installed two SB Con FE in 07's for guys and both came with new solid flywheel's and they came with large roller bearings instead of the little needle bearing. They also recommend the new hydro kit to keep the peddle press close to stock. I like the solid flywheel instead of the dual-mass st ocker. It is not as smooth or quiet but I don't care I just want it to hold.

matego

The NV5600 is a little different. They come with a solid flywheel stock. I didnt think the FE really made my clutch that much stiffer to need new hydros. I have approx 20k on aftermarket clutches and have had 0 issues with hydros.

I feel bad for the amount of time he had in replacing his clutch. I am down to 2 hrs. complete now. I need to do it all again in the Spring because I am giving up on single disk clutches

Fisherguy

2 hours?
Holy, me thinks you'll be getting lotsa PM's from forum members in your area!

matego

It is not that hard. I made an adapter for my floor jack that cradles the trans so it so it does not rotate. Air tools are a huge help as well and geardrive wrenches. I would help anyone who asked me, I think it is the easiest clutch I have ever done except for the 70 Chevy C-10. You can lay the trans on your chest and roll it in there on that one.

4x4not

I think I'll pick up one of those vacuum bleeders and try that with the master cylinder. No matter how hard I try, I can't seem to get the pedal any firmer.

I DID have air tools, and geardrive wrenches. It still took forever. I think I could do the job in about half the time now, but 2 hours is just nuts!

Fisherguy

Okay, let me know if you're ever up to Vancouver BC, I'll even supply the good ole Canadian beer!

Sniper05

I always use BREAD for pilot bearings! It usualy only takes a peice or 2 and a bolt thats the exact size of the inner race and beat the bread in there and Ta Da! But i plan on getting the same clutch for the G56 and replacing the POS dual mass flywheel, so i dread the old exchange to! How do you guys like it so far?

MCummings

Get a sprung Dual disc.

I have run a few South Bend Clutch's. An OFE, FE, Dual Disc, and now a Sprung dual disc.

The Sprung dual disc is a as quiet as stock, and engagement/cruising is smooth as butter.

Merrick