Could unplugging IAT sensor on airbox cause...
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Could unplugging IAT sensor on airbox cause...
Could unplugging IAT air sensor on air box cause a codes po237 and p0113? Had truck into dealer for timing cover gasket fix and now truck wont start and its giving a ton of codes? these are 2 of them. other ones relate to rail sensor being screwed. i think they washed under hood where they shouldnt of.
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? pardon me? truck was fine. flawless. chip and everything working now. it went into garage for oil leak fix. They charged me $1212.57 and my engine has oil fingerprints all over it. oil spilt on my $100 amsoil nano air filter (whillys whistler). They said they ripped down highway with it to check for leaks. And now truck wont start rail pressure reads 26,000 psi with my quad rail gauge and dealer scan tool without truck even running. so rail sensor is hooped. is it my fault? its actually QUADS fault
#7
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Sally you indicated you are a "Journeyman Diesel Mechanic", why in the world would you spend that kind of money to have the dealer repair an oil leak.
As for who is at fault, you play you pay, it does not matter if the dealer broke it by washing it or running it hard or even if the QUADS fried it (for the 3rd time). Once you start bombing you take 100% personal responsibility for the good the bad and the ugly.
As for who is at fault, you play you pay, it does not matter if the dealer broke it by washing it or running it hard or even if the QUADS fried it (for the 3rd time). Once you start bombing you take 100% personal responsibility for the good the bad and the ugly.
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time. i have no garage. plus its my main vehicle. i cant afford to pull rad and have it apart for weeks. plus i do shift work. i sleep during day and work graveyards etc.......
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the oil leak was removal of entire front timing cover..bombing. i drive with edge on level 1-2. never used level 3-6. plus a diesel specialist said 30-50 HP modules/chips would benefit more than destroy engine. better fuel mileage etc...as long as you arent racing. Driving 100 km hour on highway with a 40 HP gain wont BOMB anything. Hooking up a rail gauge like I did made by QUAD shouldnt BOMB anything. its a gauge
#10
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Bombing means modifying not blowing things up (but that does sometimes go hand and hand).
A stock truck does not need a rail pressure gauge nor does it need the Edge "Hot Unlock", you paid extra for that with no intention of using it?? Every other post, you say WOT this and WOT that. A normal daily driver does not WOT anytime.
As for your oil leak, weeks??? Make sure you get a job that pays by the hour and not by the job. Front cover is a long Saturday job at most and that is taking your time.
A stock truck does not need a rail pressure gauge nor does it need the Edge "Hot Unlock", you paid extra for that with no intention of using it?? Every other post, you say WOT this and WOT that. A normal daily driver does not WOT anytime.
As for your oil leak, weeks??? Make sure you get a job that pays by the hour and not by the job. Front cover is a long Saturday job at most and that is taking your time.
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i was noticing high egts. someone told me to go WOT and see what numbers i get cause thats the best way. I got the turbo timer added and since I sent it away for turbo timer i had them put hot unlock in just incase I ever sold the unit. Why send it there 5 times when i can kill 2 birds with 1 stone. I bought the quad rail gauge because I actually wanted a LP gauge so i opted for the LP option on the quad. i also used rail pressure readings to aid me in finding a cause for high egts/ rough idle. Last tank I got 23 mpg. what did you get. I dont think i was WOT pal
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and for the Oil leak buddy. I dont have factory warranty but I have LUBRICO 3rd party insurance. I paid a pile for it when i bought my truck used. one of the conditions is that theyll fix all oil leaks. so why not get it fixed by someone else. The oil leak costed $1200 at dealer and Lubrico is sending me $1100. Should i go with dealer and lubrico or should I take truck apart on my gravel driveway here in Saskatchewan? I guess i could stick my rad/air to air in my livingroom and I could wash the timing cover in my bath tub. Ill buy a $100 tool from cummins as well so i can install front seal and speedy sleeve?lol
lmfao go figure.
lmfao go figure.
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Could unplugging IAT air sensor on air box cause a codes po237 and p0113? Had truck into dealer for timing cover gasket fix and now truck wont start and its giving a ton of codes? these are 2 of them. other ones relate to rail sensor being screwed. i think they washed under hood where they shouldnt of.
Not so much....
? pardon me? truck was fine. flawless. chip and everything working now. it went into garage for oil leak fix. They charged me $1212.57 and my engine has oil fingerprints all over it. oil spilt on my $100 amsoil nano air filter (whillys whistler). They said they ripped down highway with it to check for leaks. And now truck wont start rail pressure reads 26,000 psi with my quad rail gauge and dealer scan tool without truck even running. so rail sensor is hooped. is it my fault? its actually QUADS fault
the oil leak was removal of entire front timing cover..bombing. i drive with edge on level 1-2. never used level 3-6. plus a diesel specialist said 30-50 HP modules/chips would benefit more than destroy engine. better fuel mileage etc...as long as you arent racing. Driving 100 km hour on highway with a 40 HP gain wont BOMB anything. Hooking up a rail gauge like I did made by QUAD shouldnt BOMB anything. its a gauge
i was noticing high egts. someone told me to go WOT and see what numbers i get cause thats the best way. I got the turbo timer added and since I sent it away for turbo timer i had them put hot unlock in just incase I ever sold the unit. Why send it there 5 times when i can kill 2 birds with 1 stone. I bought the quad rail gauge because I actually wanted a LP gauge so i opted for the LP option on the quad. i also used rail pressure readings to aid me in finding a cause for high egts/ rough idle. Last tank I got 23 mpg. what did you get. I dont think i was WOT pal
and for the Oil leak buddy. I dont have factory warranty but I have LUBRICO 3rd party insurance. I paid a pile for it when i bought my truck used. one of the conditions is that theyll fix all oil leaks. so why not get it fixed by someone else. The oil leak costed $1200 at dealer and Lubrico is sending me $1100. Should i go with dealer and lubrico or should I take truck apart on my gravel driveway here in Saskatchewan? I guess i could stick my rad/air to air in my livingroom and I could wash the timing cover in my bath tub. Ill buy a $100 tool from cummins as well so i can install front seal and speedy sleeve?lol
lmfao go figure.
lmfao go figure.
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Some good reading for you...someone pointed this out to me the first week I was on here....
http://www.myturbodiesel.com/1000q/turbocharging.htm
And then...the darwin theory of diesel performance....
If Darwin himself were alive today I dare say that he would be driving a diesel. No other engine out there has more perfectly illustrated his theories of evolution than the diesel. Now as true as it might be that diesels were once known for being the “slow and smelly” vehicles on the road car makers as well as several performance companies have set out on a mission to put an end to that reputation. With the additions of a turbo or multiple turbos (i.e. '08 Powerstroke) and intercooler(s) as well as intakes, chips/modules and exhaust systems the reputation once held by diesels is now evolving, Darwin would be so proud.
So why diesel performance? In the past there never really was a question as to which “species” was more dominant when it came to performance. It has not been until recently that there has even needed to be a debate as to which is better, gas performance or diesel performance and even today you will have people try to argue that gas performance is where it is at but I am here to say that not only is there more horsepower available for the money when it comes to performance products for diesels but you will have longer engine life as well as maintain if not increased fuel mileage.
One of the strongest points in the argument for Diesel Performance is the fact that you can add engine mods to a diesel engine and it won’t harm the engine or make it burn hotter to the extent of damaging the engine permanently. Don't get me wrong you can still fry your engine but diesel engines are built much stronger and much more durable. One of the main reasons that diesel engines are so durable or will last longer in general is the way that combustion occurs in the engine. Diesel engines “fire” or “combust” differently than gas engines mainly because of the type of fuel that is used. In gasoline engines a spark plug is used to combust the fuel but in a diesel combustion occurs mainly due to the temperature of the compressed air which causes the fuel to ignite. Because of this diesel engines are built more durable because they have a higher compression ratios (20:1 for a typical diesel vs. 8:1 for a typical gasoline engine) it is being built to withstand this higher compression that makes these engines more ready for performance modifications straight from the factory.
As the diesel engine has evolved over the years turbo chargers have been added to increase power as well as efficiency, this has made way for huge increases in horsepower both stock as well as with the addition of after market products. One of the main reasons that diesel performance is so much more viable is the fact that because the engine is built for a higher compression ratio anyway so it is going to be able to withstand the boost that is created by a turbo much better than a gasoline engine, also allowing the addition of performance modifications without shortening the life of the engine as usually happens with gasoline engines when performance mods are added.
Like it or not diesel performance is here to stay, and whether or not you believe in evolution it's happening and will continue to happen in the diesel performance market. Don’t be surprised when you see good old Darwin himself roll past you on the street in his tweaked out diesel.
Diesel Performance evolution starts with a strong base of upgrades, not just any Diesel Performance Part will do- Nathan Young
http://www.myturbodiesel.com/1000q/turbocharging.htm
And then...the darwin theory of diesel performance....
If Darwin himself were alive today I dare say that he would be driving a diesel. No other engine out there has more perfectly illustrated his theories of evolution than the diesel. Now as true as it might be that diesels were once known for being the “slow and smelly” vehicles on the road car makers as well as several performance companies have set out on a mission to put an end to that reputation. With the additions of a turbo or multiple turbos (i.e. '08 Powerstroke) and intercooler(s) as well as intakes, chips/modules and exhaust systems the reputation once held by diesels is now evolving, Darwin would be so proud.
So why diesel performance? In the past there never really was a question as to which “species” was more dominant when it came to performance. It has not been until recently that there has even needed to be a debate as to which is better, gas performance or diesel performance and even today you will have people try to argue that gas performance is where it is at but I am here to say that not only is there more horsepower available for the money when it comes to performance products for diesels but you will have longer engine life as well as maintain if not increased fuel mileage.
One of the strongest points in the argument for Diesel Performance is the fact that you can add engine mods to a diesel engine and it won’t harm the engine or make it burn hotter to the extent of damaging the engine permanently. Don't get me wrong you can still fry your engine but diesel engines are built much stronger and much more durable. One of the main reasons that diesel engines are so durable or will last longer in general is the way that combustion occurs in the engine. Diesel engines “fire” or “combust” differently than gas engines mainly because of the type of fuel that is used. In gasoline engines a spark plug is used to combust the fuel but in a diesel combustion occurs mainly due to the temperature of the compressed air which causes the fuel to ignite. Because of this diesel engines are built more durable because they have a higher compression ratios (20:1 for a typical diesel vs. 8:1 for a typical gasoline engine) it is being built to withstand this higher compression that makes these engines more ready for performance modifications straight from the factory.
As the diesel engine has evolved over the years turbo chargers have been added to increase power as well as efficiency, this has made way for huge increases in horsepower both stock as well as with the addition of after market products. One of the main reasons that diesel performance is so much more viable is the fact that because the engine is built for a higher compression ratio anyway so it is going to be able to withstand the boost that is created by a turbo much better than a gasoline engine, also allowing the addition of performance modifications without shortening the life of the engine as usually happens with gasoline engines when performance mods are added.
Like it or not diesel performance is here to stay, and whether or not you believe in evolution it's happening and will continue to happen in the diesel performance market. Don’t be surprised when you see good old Darwin himself roll past you on the street in his tweaked out diesel.
Diesel Performance evolution starts with a strong base of upgrades, not just any Diesel Performance Part will do- Nathan Young
#15
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I will guarantee 2 things, you did not get 23 mpg and I am not either your pal or buddy. Name calling is a bit lame, don't you think?
Why complain about a $1200 repair bill when you only paid a $100 deductible, you should have mentioned that in the first post? Personally if I were you, I would have done the job myself, purchasing the tools needed since they will be used again and again as part of my chosen career. Being a shade tree (gravel drive) mechanic builds character and would make you appreciate a clean work shop. You could then have saved all the money on the warranty.
Why complain about a $1200 repair bill when you only paid a $100 deductible, you should have mentioned that in the first post? Personally if I were you, I would have done the job myself, purchasing the tools needed since they will be used again and again as part of my chosen career. Being a shade tree (gravel drive) mechanic builds character and would make you appreciate a clean work shop. You could then have saved all the money on the warranty.