clutch install ?????
clutch install ?????
i will be installing my new clutch in about a week and was wondering what i should look out for on the a 03 6spd 4x4 i have changed clutchs in mustang and old ford trucks but i just was wondering if there was anything that i should be ready for when i do this next weekend or tricks to do it faster
did my clutch a week ago ...
i pulled into my buddie deans shop at 11 am and was back on the road by 1! 2 hours to do the clutch and rear main seal! and its not like it seemed like we were realy working fast...
rear main was just barely seeping ... ida never known... but dean had the seal, and the installer tool there so we goter done while apart.
i drained and refilld the trany.. good thing to.. only got about 3.5 quarts out... over filled with 6 qts of amsoil syncromesh.. shifts like butter now....
we cleaned every thing .. it was spotles on reasembly coated every thing with some coper based milspec antiseze i have ... i gota say , it made a huge diferance! i need to readjust to it.. even tho the plate hase more presure theres so little friction to the moving parts it feels like a honda clutch or some thing..
now to get it broke in so i can start to abuse it!
huge thanks go's out to rip and my buddie dean.. rip came thru with a flywheel at the last min and saved this from being an all day projet running around having it ground etc... ill get the core to ya asap! suld be there tuesday!
oh yha.. trucks got 140k on it..... poor stock luk clutch hardly had any presure left to it.. lol... could move the fingers by hand... no wonder it would slip... the disc its self didnt look to bad.. still had some meat left to it....
what was funny was the parts that took us the longest... removing te old rear main, re installing the trany x/member, and getting the bolts lined up in the console etc..
we fought the x-member for almost 10 min before we redlise it had a wierd taper to it where it bolts together at the frame rails... we were only a min or two away from pulling out the portapower and spreading the frame... lol..
oh, did i mention dean had to cust a hole in the cealing of the shop so we could get the truck on the hoist.. lol..









i pulled into my buddie deans shop at 11 am and was back on the road by 1! 2 hours to do the clutch and rear main seal! and its not like it seemed like we were realy working fast...
rear main was just barely seeping ... ida never known... but dean had the seal, and the installer tool there so we goter done while apart.
i drained and refilld the trany.. good thing to.. only got about 3.5 quarts out... over filled with 6 qts of amsoil syncromesh.. shifts like butter now....
we cleaned every thing .. it was spotles on reasembly coated every thing with some coper based milspec antiseze i have ... i gota say , it made a huge diferance! i need to readjust to it.. even tho the plate hase more presure theres so little friction to the moving parts it feels like a honda clutch or some thing..
now to get it broke in so i can start to abuse it!
huge thanks go's out to rip and my buddie dean.. rip came thru with a flywheel at the last min and saved this from being an all day projet running around having it ground etc... ill get the core to ya asap! suld be there tuesday!
oh yha.. trucks got 140k on it..... poor stock luk clutch hardly had any presure left to it.. lol... could move the fingers by hand... no wonder it would slip... the disc its self didnt look to bad.. still had some meat left to it....
what was funny was the parts that took us the longest... removing te old rear main, re installing the trany x/member, and getting the bolts lined up in the console etc..
we fought the x-member for almost 10 min before we redlise it had a wierd taper to it where it bolts together at the frame rails... we were only a min or two away from pulling out the portapower and spreading the frame... lol..
oh, did i mention dean had to cust a hole in the cealing of the shop so we could get the truck on the hoist.. lol..









When you replace a clutch you should always resurface the flywheel to give the new clutch a proper surface to seat to. You will void the warranty of all of the major clutches if they find out you did not resurface the flywheel.
Jason
Jason
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thanks chris.... i gota say its all your fault i didnt buy a double disk.... had your ofe been slipping ida done it.. lol...
so who has these flywheels laying around i went to a few places (advanded,discount, and carquest) but no one has them for my 6 speed the have them for the 5 speed for the 12 1/4 clutch
3rd gen 5600 fly wheels are 100% interchangeable with the 2nd gen 5600's.
diferance is the 2nd gen isnt back cut so it weighs a few lbs more , and the weight is further out from centerline. good for pulling/inurtia, bad for racing/acceleration.
only place i could find a 3rd gen was napa, $400+ new, so i swaped in a 2nd gen.
make sure you get it GROUND, not TURNED. theres a big diferance, and if seen some shops try to turn them... lol.. what a mess..
diferance is the 2nd gen isnt back cut so it weighs a few lbs more , and the weight is further out from centerline. good for pulling/inurtia, bad for racing/acceleration.
only place i could find a 3rd gen was napa, $400+ new, so i swaped in a 2nd gen.
make sure you get it GROUND, not TURNED. theres a big diferance, and if seen some shops try to turn them... lol.. what a mess..
some stores stock resurfaced fly wheels, in utah there is a place called bradshaws and it costs like a hundred bucks or something and you take your old flywheel in and they give you the core charge back it ends up costing like 40-50 bucks. i just did a clutch i used a tranny jack the tranny weighs like 350 lbs, just the tranny.
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everything else is the same as any other tranny
great post
