I'm not trying to start a war here. I was told that where I have a heavier duty clutch than stock, it creates more heat & can warp the line. SBC doesn't seem like a gotta get everything we can from the customer type business.
If this was dealing with "Old School" 64-71 Mopar muscle cars, I could whip it allot easier. I am learning something new everytime I log in here. I appriciate all you all chiming in & trying to help.

 

Same here.


Heavier clutch in general isn't going to run hotter, unless you slip your clutch more than you did with the stock one. I've never seen a clutch line warped by a hot clutch. That would be a substanial amount of heat to do that. Put it in prospective, I saw a truck that someone had installed an 04 system on an 05 truck. (5600 on G56) The 04 system overstroked the 05 SAC, causing the TOB to ride the pressure plate fingers constantly. To the point the TOB failed and seized. Then you have heat generated from the TOB/pressure plate interface grinding, which in turn heated the release fork and melted the cap that is on the end of the slave rod. It didn't warm the exterior of the trans enough for radiant heat to melt or damage the S/C or any of the line. If the system was being affected by heat, the trans would be hard to get into and out of gear. Loss of reserve. The hydraulics wouldn't get stiff. You describe the system as stiff to actuate. or Hard pedal.


I agree. I beleive they sell it to correct the ratio to interact with the clutch. If it was purely to upgrade to the PTFE, because it's high temp, then why isn't the top portion of the system PTFE?

Bottom line I'm trying to get across to everyone is, the system they sell is not necessarily a stronger, heavier built system. It's mearly got different ratios and is OEM for a current or past product that had lighter clutch loads than you are running with the aftermarket set-up.

Someone with this setup needs to post the part #'s.

 

The stock hydraulic setup is heavy duty anyways, so I agree with you ^^^.

 

morpheus

Hey guy, how are you doing? I am sitting back with a drink, Friday night, looking through some collage stuff for my son and had a little time to do some surfing. I did a search on clutch and boy did your name pop up. I hit your name and did a review on all your 19 posts. Well obviously, all of them have been on the new G56 design transmission. Obviously you had a big part in the production and design in the outcome of the 5.9 and 6.7 05.5 and later trucks. What a pleasure to have you here. I think your point of the hydraulics is spot on with the system provided. When going to the conventional design such as we have, the appropriate hydraulics are required such as you have stated. Yes, you are right about the ratio, but the robust of the cylinders is obvious. Also, I agree about the AP design and that is who we are sticking with. One thing you are over looking is the braided line. We got AP to actually make the braided line from the master cylinder all the way to the slave cylinder. This will be released shortly. We also got them to add 6" to allow for lift kits. This will help in any line flex do to increase in applied pressures. It really has nothing to do with heat, as you stressed. The problem does not lie in what you did but more so in the DMF LUK designed. Your hydraulics were perfect for the self adjusting pressure plate. But, as you know, that will not work for the conventional design. Please feel free to call me, I have nothing to hide and will tell you exactly what we are doing. It is not rocket science. We are just a company that sees the after math and tries to find a way to fix it
My number is in my signature if you care to talk.

Peter

 

Thanks for clarifying Peter. By the way, when I got my clutch from your company, you all were great at helping out a diesel rookie!

 

I have my truck rolling again & I wanted to see if anyone had tips or pictures on installing the hydraulics upgrade? Thanks again guys!!

 

Taking the old one out will show you how to do it (uh,...er.. only in
reverse)

Pretty straight forward, only thing different is that you have to mount the reservoir somewhere. Clutch pedal detaches with one cheesy white pin that pulls right out, pull the neutral safety switch off by taking the red clip out.