Yeah ok, I don't own one so there's no risk to me or my warranty, but hey, I was never one to keep my yap shut. Besides that, there has to be one 6.7 owner out there who is as DIY (aka nut's) as I am. (I work in Oil and Gas as an operator in a Fractionation plant so I do alot stuff simmilar to this, all the time. Besides that, I can't see Mother Mopar Doing a Regen Much Different then this anyway. It's not like they have an engine on a stand that is the most perfectly calibrated unit on earth that they hook plugged DPF's up to, to clean them out for the next guy who's waiting in line for one.) So go and get a camera and take Pictures of this madness. Hopefully the inlet tube is short enough you can see inside it. Step 1) Remove DPF. Step 2) Build a fitting so compressed air can be flowed backward through it. (You are doing this because that diesel was pounding up to 14 000+ liters of air a minute through it (@ hiway speed) until it packed in there so tight it knocked it down. Your shop air compressor isn't going to hurt it.) This should reestablish flow through the filter. I suspect it's gonna sneeze a butt load of coal out the inlet pipe, so make sure you do this in the wife sewing room, it'll drive her wild, wild I say. Once it's cleared, flow it both way's just to be sure. Step 3) Hang it from the clothes line and stick a tiger torch up it's ****. (Carbon won't even glow until 1200 degrees so depending on how long the DPF's inlet pipe is will determin how badly you blue or burn it. Considering the engine is dumping fuel into the exhaust stroke, and the timing gets cut right back to put flames down the exhaust manifold to regen it, and VW actually had an injector in the exhaust manifold a few years back when they tryed to keep their oxidation cat running hotter, I can't see it hurting anything. But again, no warranty expressed or implied. Now that I've suggested it I wanna get my hands on one and try it just for the heck of it.) If it works, well it sucks you have to do it, but hey, get a spare and won't get stranded again, and you won't have to go back to the shop. If it dosen't work, get some steel wool and rub the blue heat marks off, bolt it back in, coat it liberally with mud and take it in and have the dealer change it out. As I said in another thread, the DPF should be in the Exhaust manifold before the turbo. It's 300 degrees hotter there so it would be doing it's job bigger, better, harder, faster all the time with less exhaust stroke fuel injection, less timing retardation and the energy used in the regen would be somewhat recovered by the turbo. And as much as I hate an EGR, the EGR would be dumping CLEAN exhaust in to your intake, instead of COAL. But what do I know. Let her Rip Fellas. Flame on. Me or your DPF, it's your choice. Here to help, not to hinder. Let nothing hold you back but the fear of success.