I own a new Dodge 3500 RAM truck with the Cummins 6.7 liter diesel engine. I bought a new filter/water separator at the local dealer and tried to get my fuel filter changed at two local shops. Both refused out of concern over restaring the vehicle (losing prime) . The second place told me that the last two Dodge diesels he relaced fuel filters on had to be primed, which entailed loosening the injectors and doing other things. These were the older 5.9 liter engines which have a different fuel filter. I looked at the instructions that came with the filter and it specifically stated NOT to fill the bowl with fuel before installing, So, priming shouldn't be an issue. As a matter of fact, the instructions are very simple. I'd do it myself but since this is the first fuel filter change and I'm new to diesels I'd like to watch someone else do it first.

I went to a third place (a Goodyear dealership) and the guy behind the counter said they would do it....for $80! I refuse to be ripped off, so I think I'll ask a friend who has worked on diesels before to help me. Have any of you 6.7 owners done this yourself and have there been any problems? Thanks in advance...

 

What does the repair manual say to do? You should try to pick one up if you plan on wrenching on your own vehicle. Definitely money well spent.

-Chris

 

I changed mine from the wheel well in the driveway. Would I do it this way again...no. Next time I will raise the truck, not the wheels a bit to give me a bit more room to get in there. I had to put my filter wrench on it to get it started. Otherwise it was straight forward. I bumped the starter three times and then on the fourth cranked it over...started clean. Bumping the starter means engage the starter just enough to barely turn over the engine and leave the key forward...this way the pump runs [hard to hear on these new trucks], after about 15 seconds I repeated this two more times and then started like normal. That is how I prime the filter housing.

One thing I did that I should not have done was I didn't just drain the old filter, I spun the drain right out and realized I turned it too far...too late. Whoops.

If I can get my arm in there...I would venture a guess that most people can do it.

Scotty

 

The Owner's Manual also says every month to drain a little fuel to get any water accumulation out of the filter. The clear tube provided is a little short to get a container under. I replaced OE tube with enough 3/8 ID clear tubing so I can drain my filter from the wheel well and catch the fuel in a container.

 

Don't worry about priming it.. The Lift Pump will take care of that. Just cycle the key on and off 3 or 4 times before you turn it to start. Should fire right up. No big deal. Once you do it the first time you will find it is a snap.

 

It is as simple as the instructions say. I changed mine a couple weeks ago. Took 4 starter bumps to get it going. I took the tire off but not the inner fender. There was just enough room to get the filter in and out through a gap between the frame and inner fender.

 

Man those 6.7's seem like a pain to change the filter..
Scott

 

Ditto!! Just have to find a way to get to it. Either from below, thru the wheelwell or above. I found I can get mine from above if I loosen that big junction box and move it to the side. Then I can pull the loose filter up & out. The new filter goes down thru the same hole and then tighten. The one trick I found to drain the old filter is to loosen a couple turns and THEN drain it. If you don't loosen it first ya won't get anything out of the drain tube. Ya keep turning the crank until it all spills out from the threads and then down the OUTSIDE of the drain hose - VERY Messy. I just hate having to do it in the COLD outside.

 

I changed the filter by myself this afternoon. My mechanic friend was nearby in case I got into trouble but he wasn't really needed except for the loan of a filter wrench. I did everything from the top of the engine, except removal of the electrical plug (used for the "water in fuel" sensor) and short drain hose from the bottom of the filter. I didn't have to move anything out of the way, either. I also added a longer hose to the drain, as some of you suggested. It was actually a little harder to get the filter on than its removal. On several attempts it was cross-threaded but after cleaning up the threads a bit and applying a little oil it went in smoothly. I "bumped" the starter a few times, listening to the fuel pump each time and waiting for it to stop. After about 4 "bumps" of the starter she started right up.

BTW, the price of the fuel filter/water separator from the dealer was surprisingly reasonable: just $25. Now, how am I gonna spend that $80 I didn't pay Goodyear to perform this simple task??

 

So do the new 6.7l fuel filters not have a bleeder screw or lever? That would be stupid, wouldn't it?

Can I assume that there is no more manual had primer button like what is on my 1997?

If there is no manual primer, and you "bump" the starter to fill up the new filter, arn't you pushing air into the injectors? I would think that is bad.

 

Well I tackled my fuel filter change today along with oil and filter change. Took the front driverside tire and inner moulding off and there it was. Disconnected the sensor and unscrewed the drain valve. Put the Oilfilter wrench on and gave her a little twist and off she came. Put new o-ring on new filter and made sure the big o-ring on top came off with old filter. Screwed it back in and gave it a little bump and re atached the drain hose. Cycled the key 3-4 times. Had to crank it twice before she fired back up. Time was about 20 min. Not nearly as bad as I thought it would be.

 

Changed mine on a lift, but next time I'm going to try the wheel/wheel well to see if that's any better.

 

Changing it from the top isn't all that difficult. I used a step stool so I could reach low enough to get the filter wrench in place and it was a snap from there (I had already disconnected the wire from the bottom of the filter from beneath the truck). My truck is a 4X4 so there was plenty of clearance.

 

I will try it from the top next time too. Thanks for the info.

Scotty

 

do not ever loosen the injectors off on a common rail diesel.

the fuel preassure is enough to cut your fingers off.