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What are signs of an injector going bad?

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Old 12-13-2013, 05:30 PM   #46  
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Glad Todd is hooking you up.
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Old 12-13-2013, 10:12 PM   #47  
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Thanks! It's a relief knowing I'll have parts here probably by Tuesday or Wednesday.

Speaking of -- the FCA is an easy swap. What about the PRV? I'm guessing it's that thing on the end of the fuel rail, up underneath the cowling? How does it come off, what with that line coming out of it?

Rob
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Old 12-13-2013, 10:29 PM   #48  
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I haven't ever removed one, but I believe you remove the banjo holding the return down, then remove the PRV and reverse. I think it's a simple job. If the torque spec's aren't in the box give Todd a call back.
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Old 12-16-2013, 09:26 PM   #49  
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BTW -- do I have to depressurize the system before trying to remove it? I would imagine there's a bit of fuel pressure built up in there, even if it's leaking down.

Parts are here.. I pick them up in the morning. Good thing too, since the idle is getting much worse. I'm to the point of worrying if it'll continue running.

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Old 12-16-2013, 10:01 PM   #50  
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Let it sit for a minute and pressure will discipate.
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Old 12-17-2013, 01:50 PM   #51  
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IT'S ALIVE!!!

And not a moment too soon. It nearly didn't start this morning just to go pick up the parts.

The replacement was super easy. It doesn't get much easier than that. I think I spent 15 minutes on both items. Then, with fingers crossed, I attempted to start it. I expected it to crank for a bit since pressure had fallen off. But nope, it fired right up like it's old self!

I went for a short drive down the street and back, and there's no more bouncing idle, and no more hesitation when shifting and rolling onto the throttle again -- something I hadn't realized was even a problem. That tells me these things have been going bad for a while now.

Yay!! Thanks a ton for all the help!

Rob
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Old 12-17-2013, 02:11 PM   #52  
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Great to hear!!
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Old 12-17-2013, 10:08 PM   #53  
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Okay so one more question, not related though. I'm doing balljoints starting on Friday most likely. I have all the tools located and a shop to work in. The video I saw makes it look fairly straightforward.

I plan to do the U-joints on the ends of the axles too, since I have the whole thing apart. I could get Spicers, which I know are good, for $72-ish each (ouch). I could get whatever Carquest sells for $55 each, or I could get AutoZone's Duralast Gold for $22 each.

Seeing as how I'm seriously broke, I'm considering the $22 ones. I don't see how they could be any worse than OEM. I wish I had the cash to do the Spicers, but I really don't.

Thoughts?

Rob
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Old 12-18-2013, 07:47 AM   #54  
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OEM is actually pretty good, so it would be easy to be worse than OEM.

I recall all of the shops I talked to about u-joints recommending the AAM's, best in terms of reliability and longevity.

Greasable joints are actually weaker than non-greasable.
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Old 12-18-2013, 01:23 PM   #55  
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AAM... is that the brand? I'll have to look 'em up

Rob
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Old 12-18-2013, 01:28 PM   #56  
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Yes AAM.
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Old 12-18-2013, 07:16 PM   #57  
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Sweet, thanks. Found a set on eBay for $55/ea and ordered them this morning. Much more tolerable price.
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Old 03-06-2018, 06:56 PM   #58  
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I have a 5 9 that Lopes eight or nine times after starting and then dies any suggestion could the injector pump be bad?
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