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What are signs of an injector going bad?

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Old 11-27-2013, 09:16 PM   #16  
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Did some reading on other sites and one guy talked about a sticky injector and described exactly the same problem I'm having. Said he used Diesel Kleen and the problem went away.

Another post talked about the solenoid like you mentioned... said if that's the case, you just replace the whole injector.

BTW what is the FCA?

Rob
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Old 11-27-2013, 09:39 PM   #17  
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Vots View Post
Can I read rail press. off of the OBDII on a 04.5? If so I think I'll get one of those.
The OBDII should report it, but the UG doesn't read it on 03-04's, to include 04.5's.

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Originally Posted by RobG View Post
Did some reading on other sites and one guy talked about a sticky injector and described exactly the same problem I'm having. Said he used Diesel Kleen and the problem went away.

Another post talked about the solenoid like you mentioned... said if that's the case, you just replace the whole injector.

BTW what is the FCA?

Rob
FCA is Fuel Control Actuator, it is the fuel flow regulator attached to the CP3. It increases or decreases fuel to meet the demand of the motor.

If you replace 1 injector be sure to replace all 6, it is more cost now but FAR fewer headaches in the coming months. HPCR's are not very fond of replacing 1 at a time.
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Old 11-27-2013, 09:42 PM   #18  
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Oh good Lord, I hope it's not an injector then!! $2400 for new injectors? Bah. I'd probably just sell it. I can't come up with that kind of cash.

Though if I did, I would want some kind of performance increase. I had been wanting a set of injector nozzles. They're supposed to be worth about 90 hp. This truck (with Smarty) never has had the torque that my 2001 had with HX-40 and DD3 injectors.

Rob
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Old 11-27-2013, 10:03 PM   #19  
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Common Rails are funny that way, the ECM has it's hand in everything and even with good tuning they don't quite do the same down real low.

I am guessing the FCA or rail pressure relief valve, but internet trouble shooting is difficult.
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Old 11-27-2013, 10:33 PM   #20  
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The FCA appears to be around $200. That sound right? I can deal with that. The relief valve appears to be $500-ish.

Once this gauge comes and I can see the fuel rail pressure, what do I look for?

Rob
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Old 11-27-2013, 10:35 PM   #21  
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Don't go to Dodge for the parts. Try a cummins dealer. It will be much more reasonable and the same part.
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Old 11-27-2013, 10:36 PM   #22  
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You are looking for fluctuating rail pressure when running poorly. Steady rail pressure would indicate injectors, large fluctuations means fuel. Fuel could be FCA, HPRV, or lift pump.

Before you spend any money I would see what rail pressure does, and then call Todd and T&C Diesel. His knowledge is top notch, and will probably carry what you need.
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Old 11-28-2013, 02:33 PM   #23  
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Thanks a bunch for the help!! I'm looking forward to the Ultra Gauge showing up. I just hope the truck runs long enough. Just went up to the laundry room again (trouble with Oregon is stuff gets moldy if you don't watch it closely), and it barely started. It died when I restarted it to leave the laundry room, then took a while of lumpy idling before it was okay.

BTW, the prices I quoted on parts were from eBay; not Dodge. But yeah I'll call that guy Todd (and post here) once the gauge is here.

Thanks again!

Rob
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Old 11-28-2013, 04:49 PM   #24  
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Went to get my laundry... truck wouldn't start. It acted like it has in the past after it sat for several weeks. It'd crank and crank and crank and blow white smoke. After 5-6 tries, it'd start and idle very poorly for about a minute. Then it'd pick up and run just fine. As usual though when I clutch in and it drops to idle, it'd seesaw a bit.

That being said, and thinking it over, I'm gonna guess it's fuel related. It just seems like something is bleeding off pressure. I won't know for sure til the gauge gets here, but logically that's what makes the most sense right now.

'Course if that IS the case, what will the steps be to isolate which of the possible culprits is the problem?

Rob
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Old 11-28-2013, 04:53 PM   #25  
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Do you hear the lift pump run? You can bump the starter, key to start for a split second, the. Listen for the pump in the tank. If you hear it the put a jar under the filter drain and see how much you get with the drain open and a starter bump.
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Old 11-28-2013, 08:34 PM   #26  
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I'll do this tomorrow if I can figure out how to get a jar or other container to stay put while I bump the motor.

BTW -- should I reprogram the truck back to stock for this? I'm on Smarty setting #7.

Rob
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Old 11-28-2013, 08:35 PM   #27  
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Do you have a block heater cord? If so, start plugging it in an see how it does. This may get you by for a little while.


Forgot to ask, have you changed the fuel filter lately?
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Old 11-28-2013, 08:39 PM   #28  
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Heh. I have the cord. It's not installed. My truck came without one. I ordered one last fall and never could figure out where it connects, so it's still in the storage compartment under the center console.

When this mess started a few months ago, I put a fresh filter in it. I also drained the filter housing, refilled it with fresh diesel and a mix of cleaner and also fungicide, and put some in the tank too. Didn't seem to help.

The truck doesn't get that much use. I think I put about 4000 miles on it in each of the last three years.

Rob
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Old 11-28-2013, 08:41 PM   #29  
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The cord plugs into the block heater right behind the oil filter housing. It has a black plastic plug over the connection and looks similar to an oil sending unit. Do a search on here. I think someone did a write up on it.
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Old 11-28-2013, 11:51 PM   #30  
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There is no need to reprogram the truck.
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