U-Joints Gone Bad
U-Joints Gone Bad
Right front axle U-joint went bad...Spent all day yesterday and part of today changing both sides out...The right side was an absolute PITA...It took about 4 hours for disassembly and a solid 2 hours of that was just removing the hub.
Everything was rusted up good and tight. The left side wasnt half as bad. Even after a good scrubbing and cleaning, reassembly of the right side was tough...As far as the u-joints themselves, well, I BROKE a 6-inch bench vise trying to press them out. Snapped it in half. Ended up using a 20 ton arbor press to break the u-joints out of the yokes. And by break I mean explosive seperation. Those things were rough.
Here are pics of the bad joint, note the needles still in one cup, rusted together and seized in...This is what factory sealed junk ends up looking like.
Everything was rusted up good and tight. The left side wasnt half as bad. Even after a good scrubbing and cleaning, reassembly of the right side was tough...As far as the u-joints themselves, well, I BROKE a 6-inch bench vise trying to press them out. Snapped it in half. Ended up using a 20 ton arbor press to break the u-joints out of the yokes. And by break I mean explosive seperation. Those things were rough. Here are pics of the bad joint, note the needles still in one cup, rusted together and seized in...This is what factory sealed junk ends up looking like.
When they start coating your front wheels with rust dust, they are done. I replaced my original joints at 96k with greasable precision 464. My rear driveshaft joints were done at 133k and replaced with precision 330a.
I never noticed any rust on the wheels, I first had a squeak/creak when turning. That disappeared and along came the rhythmic knock. Once I got under there and spun things around it was quite clear that the joint was bad...
I also used the Precisions, glad to know youve had good luck with them. The process of doing these isnt complicated, but it is heavy work. And the rust factor had stuff so seized up it was a real effort to get the job done....
I also used the Precisions, glad to know youve had good luck with them. The process of doing these isnt complicated, but it is heavy work. And the rust factor had stuff so seized up it was a real effort to get the job done....
I had my left from u-joint replaced last week along with new front brakes. I had the u-joint at the rear of the drive shaft replaced last month. I'm hoping for a September with no repairs!
My truck just turned over 70,000 miles.
My truck just turned over 70,000 miles.
My left front went a while back, i replaced it with the Precision brand. The right side is still factory at 169K miles. I replaced the rear drive shaft joints (all 3) a long time ago with Precision brand.
BTW, I also broke my vise while doing the front axle Ujoint.
BTW, I also broke my vise while doing the front axle Ujoint.
I know the feeling, replaced the water pump in July....Hoping something else doesnt go bad soon...
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Yeah, it's a PITA- replaced them on my '03 by myself at about 75k. Might as well do your ball joints while you're in there if you haven't already. Or at least grease everything up so it'll come apart easier next time.

The crosses are identacle just the caps have a slightly different offset for the retaining clips.
I just did my left side this weekend. They were both replaced about 120,000 miles ago with the Precisions. They do have the grease fittings, but one cup would not take grease. Lack of grease in that cup lead to siezure.
Guess I can't be to upset, truck now has 190,000 miles on it.
who has some tips on getting the grease to all 4 cups of a ujoint?
Guess I can't be to upset, truck now has 190,000 miles on it.
who has some tips on getting the grease to all 4 cups of a ujoint?
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