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U-Joint installation help?

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Old Mar 29, 2007 | 02:34 PM
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U-Joint installation help?

I am planning on replacing my u-joints between the drive shaft and the rear diff. Does anyone have a list of steps to follow or things to look out for so I don't screw anything up?

Thanks, I also did a search and didn't come up with anything.
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Old Mar 29, 2007 | 08:29 PM
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From: Chi
id like to know also, the squeak is getting worse and worse on mine
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Old Mar 29, 2007 | 08:42 PM
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every time I back up "squeek, squeek, squeek"
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Old Mar 30, 2007 | 06:53 AM
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From: Chi
mine also, and forward to for the first 10 mph then i cant hear it anymore, i can feel its getting pretty bad.

Shane we need some people to help us out! lol
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Old Mar 30, 2007 | 07:06 AM
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I just ordered 2 Prescision 330A's from rockauto. Hopefully they are the right ones. I was planning on replacing the 2 I could see on the drive shaft. One at the diff and one at the t-case
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Old Mar 30, 2007 | 07:43 AM
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you need a big hammer or they make a special tool for the job. tool looks like a big C clamp. If you live close bring it over and ill give u a hand shouldnt take long. I use the hammer method.
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Old Mar 30, 2007 | 07:57 AM
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when i replaced them on tractors and such i used a large socket that would allow it to pass through it and another one to press it out from the other side and a bench vice to the compressing. kinda hard to explain but its very easy but you need to be careful

brett
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Old Mar 30, 2007 | 08:11 AM
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Rusty, careful of what? Can you explain.

DF, thanks for the offer but I'm in MN
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Old Mar 30, 2007 | 08:30 AM
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From: Long Island, NY
here is a more in depth discription on how to do... first remove shaft, hammer method, then place the shaft on the bench so what ever end you are working on is either elevated or hanging off the bench. Now determine how the factor joint is held in place. ie spring clip or injected resin. If its the resin it may require some heat to get out. If its the clip remove them. now strike the joint till the cap falls out. but dont strike the ears where the caps go. The dodge has a big square plat that bolts to the yoke. you can stike that. Once that is off take careful aim and strike the joint down pushing the cap out of the shaft.

Installation: If you are usinging a joint with a grease fitting put the joint in so the fitting faces the shaft on both ends. clean all the holes where the caps go. insert the joint and carefully slide the caps in, being careful to not allow the needle bearings in the caps to fall over some extra grease sometimes helps. center the joint with the caps in as far as they will go. place the joint in a vise and crank it close. once the caps are flush sometimes they require the use of a large socket on one side and a nut or small socket on the other to fully seat the caps. switching side with nut and socket may be necessary.
Hope this helps.
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Old Mar 30, 2007 | 08:43 AM
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id use DF5152's method. his instructions are easier to understand. becarful not to drop the caps and get those dang pins outta wack. i couldnt tell you how much time i have spend fixing what happened when i dropped them by accident

brett
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Old Mar 30, 2007 | 01:54 PM
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From: Southern, Indiana
Originally Posted by DF5152
here is a more in depth discription on how to do... first remove shaft, hammer method, then place the shaft on the bench so what ever end you are working on is either elevated or hanging off the bench. Now determine how the factor joint is held in place. ie spring clip or injected resin. If its the resin it may require some heat to get out. If its the clip remove them. now strike the joint till the cap falls out. but dont strike the ears where the caps go. The dodge has a big square plat that bolts to the yoke. you can stike that. Once that is off take careful aim and strike the joint down pushing the cap out of the shaft.

Installation: If you are usinging a joint with a grease fitting put the joint in so the fitting faces the shaft on both ends. clean all the holes where the caps go. insert the joint and carefully slide the caps in, being careful to not allow the needle bearings in the caps to fall over some extra grease sometimes helps. center the joint with the caps in as far as they will go. place the joint in a vise and crank it close. once the caps are flush sometimes they require the use of a large socket on one side and a nut or small socket on the other to fully seat the caps. switching side with nut and socket may be necessary.
Hope this helps.

Thats good advice!
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Old Mar 30, 2007 | 02:38 PM
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From: Chi
during lunch today i went out under my truck and looked and my u-joint closest to the diff is bad, one of the 4 caps is toast, the others look ok though, i will probably go for a month before i change it out, i say a month because thats when the trucks axles are being re-done, wonder if it will last that long
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Old Mar 30, 2007 | 02:48 PM
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hope it last cuz when they go they usally take other stuff with them
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Old Mar 30, 2007 | 03:39 PM
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From: Adkins Texas
geez, in the past if they squeak already the bearing are dry (the ones Ive done atleast ). Id replace asap !!
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Old Mar 31, 2007 | 07:07 AM
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From: Long Island, NY
Originally Posted by nfsommer
during lunch today i went out under my truck and looked and my u-joint closest to the diff is bad, one of the 4 caps is toast, the others look ok though, i will probably go for a month before i change it out, i say a month because thats when the trucks axles are being re-done, wonder if it will last that long
why r ur truck axles being redone? how many miles?
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