Turbo intake modification (photos)
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Turbo intake modification (photos)
I’m going to share my version of a mod to the intake tube baffle. First, I should say that the following comments are just my opinion, because I’m not an intake engineer. The 2004.5 (year) 600 is very quiet including its new turbo – much more quiet than the 2004 I test-drove for a day. My mission was to remove the baffle either by making a new one or modifying the existing. Well, I found a way to remove the X shaped baffle that’s sole purpose is to reduce intake noise (turbo) w/o jacking-up the tube. See the notes and photos below. I also removed what’s called the pre-filter on the element. The same type of pre-filter material will be found by reaching you hand into the quarter panel, through the air intake for the box itself. It’s glued in and can be easily removed. Both of these items are also designed to reduce intake noise. The result is a turbo that can be heard a little more. Also, now the filter minder will go only to the quarter mark, but was formerly going to the halfway point. Looks like I got just a touch more power too when mashing the pedal to the floor. Note that everything can be reversed to its original state if needed.
I drove it like this for a few days and then decide to remove the silencer ring too. That sure changed the turbo sound a bit! Now I hear more lower sounding turbo noise and fan type sounds. There’s a 747 jet under the hood now. I’ll have to test drive more to see if the ring will remain out and its effects. Does seem to spool-up faster, though.
Baffle Modification notes: (named the “Nelson modification”)
* Place pry bar (screwdriver) in slot as shown and slowly break the weld (plastic weld that is). Go around all 360 degrees until the baffle tube cap is removed. It will make a lot of cracking sounds.
* Just let the baffle slide out
* Place two 4” PVC pipe connects into the tube. They are a perfect fit w/o any cutting at all and no slack when re-capped. This is to fill the open void and make for a smother flow.
* Use a good plastic epoxy to re-weld the cap back to the tube. Dry and it’s a done deal.
I drove it like this for a few days and then decide to remove the silencer ring too. That sure changed the turbo sound a bit! Now I hear more lower sounding turbo noise and fan type sounds. There’s a 747 jet under the hood now. I’ll have to test drive more to see if the ring will remain out and its effects. Does seem to spool-up faster, though.
Baffle Modification notes: (named the “Nelson modification”)
* Place pry bar (screwdriver) in slot as shown and slowly break the weld (plastic weld that is). Go around all 360 degrees until the baffle tube cap is removed. It will make a lot of cracking sounds.
* Just let the baffle slide out
* Place two 4” PVC pipe connects into the tube. They are a perfect fit w/o any cutting at all and no slack when re-capped. This is to fill the open void and make for a smother flow.
* Use a good plastic epoxy to re-weld the cap back to the tube. Dry and it’s a done deal.
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Originally posted by Fenderstrat72
My understanding is this only increases the sound of the turbo and not performance. Is this correct?
My understanding is this only increases the sound of the turbo and not performance. Is this correct?
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I just stood that pipe up on it's end and whacked the baffles a couple of times with a cold chisel and they fell right out. No need to break the weld and go thru all that gluing. I popped out the sliencer ring and baffles in about 15 min's and had it back in in another 5 min's and driving down the road. It's not a complicated issue.
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Originally posted by Rusty69
I just stood that pipe up on it's end and whacked the baffles a couple of times with a cold chisel and they fell right out. No need to break the weld and go thru all that gluing. I popped out the sliencer ring and baffles in about 15 min's and had it back in in another 5 min's and driving down the road. It's not a complicated issue.
I just stood that pipe up on it's end and whacked the baffles a couple of times with a cold chisel and they fell right out. No need to break the weld and go thru all that gluing. I popped out the sliencer ring and baffles in about 15 min's and had it back in in another 5 min's and driving down the road. It's not a complicated issue.
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