tedwhazen

I've had my 2004 3500 in the dealers shop three time in the past two weeks with issues dealing with my intank lift pump placed there with TSB. The first time I was driving along and the engine just quite. Towed to dealer. They did a reprogram and I took it on a 2600 mile trip with no problems. Home for two days aand it did it again. Towed to dealer who replaced lift pump. Didn't even get a block from dealer and it did it again. Nursed back to dealer. Replaced fuel rail modulator. Ran for two days and it died again. Towed to dealer and they are dealing with technical services. Runs for a while in the shop and quites. Any ideas?

pcburnout

Have they thought about the FCA might be malfuncationing! I had somewhat same problem with surging and stalling. I put high pressure gauge in and pressure was up and down and then it would stay down and truck would try to stall or would! well good luck just a idea!

BigIron70

Make sure the relay and wiring to relay are clean and connections tight at the battery, (no corrosion). Check the add on relay for fuel pump also. Usually they tie strap it to wiring harness left side firewall area, they do go bad.

1stgenatheart

I am having the same problem,,,I hate to ask but what is the FCA?

BigIron70

The Fuel Control Actuator (FCA) is an electronically controlled solenoid valve. The ECM controls the amount of fuel that enters the high-pressure pumping chambers by opening and closing the FCA based on a demanded fuel pressure. When the FCA is opened, the maximum amount of fuel is being supplied to the fuel injection pump. Any fuel that does not enter the injection pump is directed to the cascade overflow valve. The cascade overflow valve regulates how much excess fuel is used for lubrication of the pump and how much is returned to the fuel tank through the drain manifold.

An audible click from the FCA is normal when operating the key from the ON to the OFF position.
https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...d.php?t=210818

Spooler

Been found a couple of times that one of the wires in the connections of the intank retro fit kit will be loose and cause alot of grief. I beat this is the problem. Tech's need to look for an intermittent open. Best way to do it is to run the truck and jiggle the wires and see when the LP quits by using a fuel pressure gauge. Hope this helps.

1stgenatheart

Hey thanks a lot and is there anything else I should be looking for? I will check those wires on the in-tank fuel pump.
One thing to mention, I took the battery cables off yesterday and cleaned everything. It made a huge difference in the way the truck runs. It doesn’t seem to loop anymore but it has another issue. If I start down the road and run about 1500-2000 rpm then suddenly let off the throttle it will go back to idle and then dip down about 200 rpm then return back to normal. Once in a great while it will actually stall. It's very uncommon though. Any input would be helpful. Thanks