See signature, will be towing enclosed 32' +8" (bunk) gooseneck trailer that is 5K lbs empty, with the 2 cars in, estimated total trailer weight is around 12K.

I hope to get the gauges installed before I leave as I know it is important to understand the temperature of exhaust as well as tranny.

So, if I drive off the gauges, can someone explain a situation or what i do when the exhaust is reaching too hot. I just need to understand how I change my driving style.

Also, tranny temp - what can be done in driving style if temperature gets too hot. Also, what is a good tranny temperature and what is getting on the hot side of fluid temp.

Thanks

Scott

 

dont dog the motor, when climbing hills and putting around the back roads, keep the RPM,s up.

 

As suggested, keep the RPM's up, at least above peak torque which is 1600 rpm, but ideally like around 2k if climbing large hills. The engine is much happier when it's spinning above 2k compared to lugging in the mid teens. I'm not 100% sure on an ideal tranny temp, 250 is about the degree that the idiot light comes on, but by that time your tranny is toast. I would guess about 150 when the TC is locked and everthing is cool, and 200 or so is pretty warm and I would then start to watch it. Exhaust temp you shouldn't have to worry much about, over 1200 is about the consensus of where you don't want to go. On a stock though it isn't a big worry.

 

You got some good advice already, and here is my experience. I tow about 10000 give or take. I have tranny and egt gauge and have since new. My tranny never gets over 170 towing on the highway, in tow/haul, even with some downshifting and then back to overdrive for small hills. I see high temps manuvering my trailer bcak and forth. I personally think that you realy need to hunting for gears a lot before it will heat up on the open road.

EGT well I was towing in the blue ridge and like everyone has said when I was doing 75 in OD, which is about 1600 rpm give or take, any hill of length would climb me to 1200 easy. I would slow to 55, take it out of overdrive which is about 2100 rpm and the egts would drop to 700 or so in a flash. keep the rpms up in the hills, on the flats you can get away with lower

 

Since you show no tuning in your signature I'm assuming you are stock horsepower. In that case the engine will not run too high of an EGT. But, as others have said, keep the revs up a bit. The engine and the tranny will be happier. Just run in Tow/Haul in the hills. 2000 RPM is magic when towing.

 

I've been towing a 14K fiver since I got my '03 dually and have had no troubles with heating issues. I run a chip and keep the EGT below 1300, usually around 1250 as tops. When I hit a long grade I drop out of OD at approx. 52 mph which lets the trans go into direct. This keeps the speed up, the rpm up, and the temp down. If the EGT starts to climb I just back out of the throttle until I get a good EGT and hold it there. You can really heat up a transmission when taking off from a dead stop if you put your foot into it for very long. Temp will rise quickly. I'm still running the original autotrans and just change oil in it every 30K. I've been doing this for 6 years with this vehicle. I've been towing since 1970 and have never blown an engine nor burned a trany. I don't try for the Mobil gas economy run when I take off nor while traveling. I tow around 70 plus mph, higher if terrain, wind and traffic allow. Treat it nice and it'll be there when you need it.

 

Thanks guys - I appreciate the advice

 

Egt's on a stock engine will run a little hotter then some power tuners. My TST alone lowered egts by a solid 70 degrees on 1/1

 

Agreed! I could hit 1400 stock pulling 13,000# but with my Smarty Jr I can't hit 1200. Maybe the extra fuel cools the exhaust? She blows a lot of smoke when I get on her!

 

Good link on the towing forum from last week on towing, gauges, rpm and egts.

https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...g-t254705.html

 

Regarding the EGT probe, I am a little surprised that the gauge company suggests or wants end users to drill and tap the exhaust manifold. I agree that this the correct location due to being right off the engine and pre turbo but what about all the metal shavings? is there something I am missing or do you simply remove the exhaust manifold and perform the drill and tap.

Also, I thought I saw a homemade transmission gauge sensor location for the hot transmission line versus buying the $70 line. If anyone can forward me the thread - I would appreciate it. I did do a search but could not find it.

Looks unlikely that I will get the gauges installed before I leave, luckily one of the cars inside the trailer is a Kia, probably only weighs 3000 lbs

Thanks again, can't wait to hit the road!

 

Get a little magnet to stick in the hole and you will get most of the shavings out. I have installed a lot of egt probes and I have never seen a turbo failure from it.

 

How do you have the Jr. set for towing???? do you change it if you are running empty?????

 

Most tuners reduce EGT by increasing engine timing. Timing is retarded from the factory due to emissions and the tuner puts it back at a more optimum level. Note that the heat that was showing up in the exhaust as higher EGT hasn't disappeared, its actually increasing cylinder pressure and heat in cylinder. This results in increased economy. You certainly don't want to go overboard though.

 

I'm running mine on three all the time now. It gets better mileage there anyway. I don't tow as often as I should.....