So I bought the SpynTec kit(This one) for my 2006 Dodge a while ago and started to collect parts and tools. Their proprietary hub and spindle are VERY nicely made, and are made in the USA...

...the stubs are heat treated chromoly and made in India(I assume) at the same place that makes every other Dana 60 stub shaft.
It was quite the search to find the proper Spicer u-joints for the AAM 9.25" front axle. I finally found the part number but finding the part was problematic, I ended up getting one from Amazon.
After receiving the u-joint my suspisions were confirmed...

...the only difference between the AAM 9.25"(on the left) and the Dana 60 is the notch in the caps is slightly inboard. The SpynTec kit comes with these little shims(on the left) to put on the Dana 60 side between the C clip and ears of the axle shaft.

Me being stubborn, I didn't want to use them so I used one Spicer 5006813 and one SPL55-3X to make "conversion" joints to join a AAM 9.25" inner to a Dana 60 outer. Also, the 5006813 was over $70 and the SPL55-3X was only $45, how does that make sense?!?
"Conversion" joints installed in the Dana 60 stubs...

Solid's hubs with bearings and seals installed, note the integrated tone ring for the ABS...

All the bearings and seals are off the shelf SKF, Spicer, and Chicago Rawhide stuff...

Solid stub with a Ford stub, 35 spline ofcourse...

... more tomorrow... maybe

 

Thanks for the pics. This is my next planned big mod.

 

Made some progress, basically got one side completely done. This thing fought me the entire way, nothing wanted to come apart.
The calipers and rotors were extremely hard to get off, amazingly the hubs popped right off...


I went ahead and brushed off the rust and through a coat of paint on the knuckle...

...you can see the spindle bolts have to be cut down by about 3/8".
30 spline Dana 44, 33 spline AAM 9.25", and 35 spline Dana 60...

Dana 60 outer installed on the stock AAM inner with the "conversion" joint...


...

 

Spindle installed...

...I added some paint to the dust shroud as well.
All buttoned up...


Kinda want some Dynatrac or Yukon lckouts as the caps are a lot thinner than the Mile Markers...

Still gotta holesaw out my hubcaps.

 

Great writeup and photos!! Thank you!

 

very good write up, something i really want to do, probably will when a unit bearing goes...

 

Thanks again.
Did you paint the hubs?

 

Thanks guys.
The hubs are zinc plated but I was told to go ahead and paint them for extra durability. I cleaned them thouroughy and then primed and painted them with Rustoleum.

 

Does the truck feel different?

 

I'll let you know after I get a chance to finnish the passenger side and actually drive it.

 

Your "conversion joint" is pure genius!

I really wish someone made a kit to convert the inners to 35 spline as well...

 

Finnished up the install this morning, went pretty smooth except the rotor was very difficult to get off.
More pics of the spindle, note the hole for the ABS sensor...


Mile marker lockouts...

Lockout hub compared to a drive slug...

My impact was not up to the task of getting the 18mm unit bearing/spindle bolts off...


...

 

Assembling the passenger side...



The outer snap ring is unable to be used but is not needed...

Hubcaps cut and installed...


After a test drive all I can say is why didn't I do this sooner? The second I turned the wheel while in the driveway I noticed how light the steering felt. Just driving slowly down my street the smoothness was noticeable. On the hi-way it's just so much smoother and quiet, I had no idea how much NVH the drivetrain spinning caused.
Very pleased.

 

Just wanted to jump on and say this is still a valid and accurate post! Just completed my Spyntec on 2004 Ram 3500 two weeekends ago and used your post the entire time on my laptop in the driveway. WAAAAAYYYYY better than the black and gray 0.33 megapixel instructions that come with it.
Anyone who is considering the job, it is going to be fine. Do it. THe only hiccup to be expeccted is the rusty and corroded parts on your truck (if applicable).

A few notes (to amplify/reaffirm/inform)...
*no one carries the 1-11/16 socket you need to break the hub nut loose when removinng the OEM equipment. But a 1-3/4 is much easier to find and WILL work, even with a lot of torque applied to break it loose. I wouldn't recommend for tightening and torquing down any bolts, but to break the nut loose that you are going to throw away, use the 1-3/4. Much more likely to use that again someday than 1-11/16 socket.

*PB Blast or your penetrant is essential in the weeks leading up to the swap. It is cheap and you can apply every few days or every weeek before you pull the tires. Power wash/degrease first (it won't hurt any componenets that are staying through the swap), then soak all the bolts and nuts with penetrant leading into the swap. You can do that without jacking anything up or removing anything.

*I had to cut the 4 bolts used to reassemble/mount the new spindle a little more than 3/8" so they wouldn't bottom out. Just an extra 2 threads on mine.

*The U-joint fix (using one Dana 60 and one AAm 9.25" u-joint and swapping two fo the caps to each is a great trick and worked flawlessly.

*the half shafts comming from the axle diff are not a difficult or involved process to remove or install. Don't sweat it.

*the torque sequence when tightening the spindle nut against the outer bearings is ESSENTIAL to good rolling after completion. If you cannot "freely" spin the hub with only the rotor mounted...take it back off and repeat the steps. DOn't forget to spin while torquing down to 50, then 150 (ish). Ensure it never becomes impossible to spin by using one hand against the lug studs. It shoudl not require wedging a pry bar through a couple lugs and turning the hub with what equates to a "cheater pipe".


Thansk again for the write up.