Rear Drive Shaft U-joint
#1
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Rear Drive Shaft U-joint
I've had in the last 6 months 2 u-joints freeze up. The first one, center u-joint, I had to go to the dealer and pay $75 for a non-greaseable u-joint (PN 1-05102157AD). None of the car part stores listed any replacements for the rear drive shaft u-joints yet. Yesterday I was forced to drive to Napa in front wheel drive as the rear u-joint froze up. After 30 minutes of researching the books and computer we came up with a 351A part number. This would not cross to any of their stock, so we found that the 351A was the same dimension as a 351 and Spicer 1480. The Spicer 1480 part number crossed to Nampa's greaseable u-joint 230-0188 for a grand total $24.96 including tax. I installed it last night and it fit perfectly. On a side note the OEM u-joint is made by Spicer and the directions in the box said do NOT add grease when installing. I read that after I added more grease of course.
#2
I've had in the last 6 months 2 u-joints freeze up. The first one, center u-joint, I had to go to the dealer and pay $75 for a non-greaseable u-joint (PN 1-05102157AD). None of the car part stores listed any replacements for the rear drive shaft u-joints yet. Yesterday I was forced to drive to Napa in front wheel drive as the rear u-joint froze up. After 30 minutes of researching the books and computer we came up with a 351A part number. This would not cross to any of their stock, so we found that the 351A was the same dimension as a 351 and Spicer 1480. The Spicer 1480 part number crossed to Nampa's greaseable u-joint 230-0188 for a grand total $24.96 including tax. I installed it last night and it fit perfectly. On a side note the OEM u-joint is made by Spicer and the directions in the box said do NOT add grease when installing. I read that after I added more grease of course.
#3
I added grease to my first replacement which was OE from the dealer at 43k. 100k later it went again, 2 cups dry. Replaced both with Precision 351A. Another 10k after that I replaced the LH axle joint and again, 2 cups dry. U joints have been the biggest biggest issue I've had with my 03. Will probably replace the remaining joints before I take road trip.
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My guess is that the center bearing does not keep the shaft perfectly aligned and may cause the bearings to heat up more. Along with that the angle on the drive shaft is more at the center and at the differential. I'm thinking of lowering the center bearing a half inch to a full inch. I've read some time ago that people where doing that to solve vibration problems?. It dose seems smother when the bed is full of fire wood.
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My guess is that the center bearing does not keep the shaft perfectly aligned and may cause the bearings to heat up more. Along with that the angle on the drive shaft is more at the center and at the differential. I'm thinking of lowering the center bearing a half inch to a full inch. I've read some time ago that people where doing that to solve vibration problems?. It dose seems smother when the bed is full of fire wood.
#11
In the past year, I've had 2 ujoints fail and I'm putting it back in the shop tomorrow to replace what I suspect is a 3rd. I've got an '04 with less than 42K on it.
Is this common? Before this, I've had both a Dakota and a Durango that I did a ton of towing with and only replaced 1 u-joint in 180K of driving between the two of them.
Personally, I think it's ridiculous considering this is supposed to be a heavy-duty truck...at least that's what it says on the tailgate
Any advice would be appreciated...
Is this common? Before this, I've had both a Dakota and a Durango that I did a ton of towing with and only replaced 1 u-joint in 180K of driving between the two of them.
Personally, I think it's ridiculous considering this is supposed to be a heavy-duty truck...at least that's what it says on the tailgate
Any advice would be appreciated...
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