3rd Gen Engine and Drivetrain -> 2003-2007 5.9 liter Engine and drivetrain discussion only. PLEASE, NO HIGH PERFORMANCE DISCUSSION!

Rear Disc Brake Total Replacement?

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Old Feb 18, 2008 | 05:26 PM
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Too Big's Avatar
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From: Missoula, MT
Rear Disc Brake Total Replacement?

I'm new to the forum and relatively new to the Cummins (but have been wanting one for years). I have an '04 with 100k miles and the passenger side rear disc has started rubbing - bad burned brake smell every time I drive it. I took it in and they (a good tire shop) said the whole rear brake system is shot and needs to be replaced - 2 calipers, 2 rotors & pads = $900. Does that sound right? The rotor on the rubbing side is bad - discolored from the heat and supposedly warped. The pads look brand new. I can't really afford the $900 for the whole system - is there anything you all would recommend, other than getting a second opinion? I tried getting the offending caliper off, but it wouldn't go - it rotates out part of the way, but it's hitting something that I can't see. Any help/suggestions/insight you all could provide on the situation is very welcome. I don't know much, but I'm trying to learn Thank you!!
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Old Feb 18, 2008 | 08:21 PM
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Go buy some new calipers and rotors and do it yourself. While you are at it do a complete flush on the system. Brake fluid absorbs moisture from the air and should be flushed at least every two years. More often in high humidity areas.
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Old Feb 18, 2008 | 08:31 PM
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From: North Carolina or Kentucky. Take your pick
Sounds like piston froze in right caliper. Is it possible park mechanism fouled?
As above: replace calipers(pair) bad rotor(s) pads and any hardware. Clean and lube caliper slides. Fresh brake fluid.
Not that difficult a job.
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Old Feb 18, 2008 | 08:57 PM
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This was a Company I had read good things about. I have not used them myself.
http://www.egrbrakes.com/index-main.htm
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Old Feb 18, 2008 | 09:02 PM
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The caliper slides are very common to freeze up on these trucks. Take it apart and see what parts are needed first. If the piston will push back into the caliper, check the sliders. The rubber boots may be torn and the pins corroded up. Could be a lot cheaper to fix.
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Old Feb 18, 2008 | 10:55 PM
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Too Big's Avatar
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I took it apart the best I could (like I said, I couldn't get the caliper all the way off). The piston retracted a little when I put a clamp on it - enough for the wheel to spin freely. The boots on the sliders look good and the sliders themselves are slightly corroded, but not bad. They move freely and I greased them the best I could. Is it reasonable to have to replace both sides, or can I get away with only replacing the bad side? Thank you all for your help.
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Old Feb 18, 2008 | 11:21 PM
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Originally Posted by Too Big
I took it apart the best I could (like I said, I couldn't get the caliper all the way off). The piston retracted a little when I put a clamp on it - enough for the wheel to spin freely. The boots on the sliders look good and the sliders themselves are slightly corroded, but not bad. They move freely and I greased them the best I could. Is it reasonable to have to replace both sides, or can I get away with only replacing the bad side? Thank you all for your help.
It is always best to replace calipers in pairs. If you're seeing any corrosion at all on the slide pins, them and the bushings need to be replaced. Additionally, the bores that the slide bushings sit in will be full of rust that needs to be ground down to bare shiny metal. They may feel like they slide well now, but when it gets hot that rust expands ten times as much as the metal does. That's usually what causes uneven wear problems. For the same reason, it's a good idea to sandblast the rust from the rails on the caliper frames, under the stainless liners.
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Old Feb 19, 2008 | 09:01 AM
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From: Gainesville, Ga
I am with VZ.. I have found the sliders to be the biggest issue with any disc brake system. If they bind at all, they will cause pulsing, irregular pad wear.
Calipers can be rebuilt, I do not know about the dodges but my ford was about 35 dollars ea. for a complete seal kit. Disassemble and clean, clean, clean, and polish bores and rods. re-clean and reassemble with good brake fluid. This process does not take any special tools, just a dose of patience. It is some labor but cheaper than replacement. Also if you do not have the patience for this, your dealer may offer you re-manufactured calipers at a reduced price from new. Do not fool with the rotors, just replace. Read up on this, but there are so many reasons not to turn rotors. Brakes is not something you want to take a chance on, cheapest insurance you can buy.
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Old Feb 19, 2008 | 01:54 PM
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From: Castaic CA Winnemucca NV
I bought some stuff from EGR for my 12 valve. I'd go back to them again. Everything they said was correct and shipped when they said it would.

Good luck
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