anybody had this go out with only 65000if so how much are they thanks also it seems like everything all at once ball joints, u joints ,seals ,steering boy dodge sure designed these things well what happened to getting a 100,000 miles before one thing happens

 

$12 seal. 1/2 an hour to replace. Just make sure to re-torque the pinion nut correctly.

 

yes that to what is the torque for it and where did you get it from the dealer or parts store

 

Dealer only on the part. No aftermarket seals were available by looking up the vehicle. I had them cross the dealer part # and NAPA wanted more than twice as much for the seal!

Torque -

INSTALLATION




Install new pinion seal with Installer 8882 (2) and Handle C-4171 (1).
Apply a light coat of teflon thread sealant, to pinion flange splines.




Install flange on the pinion shaft with the reference marks aligned.
Lightly tap pinion flange onto the pinion, until a few threads are showing.
Install flange washer and new pinion nut.
Hold flange (1) with Flange Wrench 8979 (2) and tighten pinion nut until pinion end play is taken up.




Rotate pinion flange (1) several times to seat bearings.
Measure pinion torque to rotate (1) with an inch pound torque wrench (2). Pinion torque to rotate should be equal to recorded reading plus an additional 0.40-0.57 N·m (3-5 in. lbs.).
If torque to rotating is low, tighten the pinion nut in 6.8 N·m (5 ft. lbs.) increments until pinion torque to rotate is achieved.
Rotate pinion several times then verify pinion torque to rotate again.
Install axle shafts and hub bearings.
Install propeller shaft with reference marks aligned.

 

so what is the final torque spec on the pinion nut i really need to change this thing out or is it just untill all end play is gone after rotating it and checking

 

You need a beam style torque wrench that reads small measurements. I always ended up using my 1/4 " drive and adapting it up to 1/2" drive. What you want to see is what the rotating torque is. How much effort is required to ratate the entire diff assy. Use the chart below to come up woth the right amount depending if you replaced bearings or not. Look for pinion bearing preload. I would also add some if the axle shafts and wheels are still hooked up. Probably wouldn't hurt to measure it before and the add 10 in lbs after.

DESCRIPTION SPECIFICATION
Axle Ratio 3.73, 4.10
Ring Gear Diameter 235 mm (9.25 in.)
Ring Gear Backlash 0.13-0.18 mm (0.005-0.007 in.)
Pinion Bearing Preload - New Bearing 1.7-2.8 N·m (15-25 in. lbs.)
Pinion Bearing Preload - Original Bearing 1.1-2.2 N·m (10-20 in. lbs.)
Pinion Bearing Preload + Differential Case Bearing Preload - New Bearing 3.4-5.6 N·m (30-50 in. lbs.)
Pinion Bearing Preload + Differential Case Bearing Preload - Original Bearing 2.8-5.1 N·m (25-45 in. lbs.)

 

that is a pinch nut so it is going to take more that 20 ft lbs just to move it so hope nothing happened but i just tightened till it didnt tighten any more but every thing still spun freely with out drive shaft in stalled and was very smooth and i couldnt believe how much dirt and grit gets in behind that flange next to that seal

 

When you measure the "rotating torque" you are measuring how much torque it takes to rotate the entire differential,bearings, ring and pinion gears, and I usually add 10" if the axle shafts are still in it.

 

86 000 kilometers on the truck now- Front pinion seal x2 and rear pinion seal x1