gmctd

Large puff(s) of black smoke coincidental with miss\hesitation\bucking can indicate slug(s) of contaminated fuel, such as water, even with new lift pump - more tends to happen in winter weather...........

UNDER-PRESSURE

The Glacier Fuel boss retains the stock lines.

andyboland

I should have added to my post. My original lift pump has 380,000 miles on it, but.... I run a large Baldwin line filter in the bed of my truck. It has a drain on the bottom that I unscrew every few thousand miles. It was advice from a guy with over a million miles on his 1998 cummins.

Buffalo

FRYES,

I have the Glacier Diesel Walbro 392 System. It includes a pressure relief valve & a second fuel return line. It bleeds off the excess fuel pressure back to the tank. The stock return line is not enough with the Walbro.

I would see if Richard at Glacier would sell you the additional parts that you need for a fuel return line & relief valve. If not, you could buy his system & keep your original Walbro as a spare. I bought a spare & needed it after 11 months of use. Richard sent me a replacement pump with no problems from him. He's a good guy to do business with, in my opinion. Was very helpful with my install. My original Walbro developed a short inside the pump. If you tapped on it, it would start working, again.

Good luck.

Joe F.

Highway 4x4

Thanks for the LP info, will be doing it soon.

Asher

90k on my canister lift pump, had a EZ on the truck with 700 miles on the OD, then stepped up to a Ramifier/MP-8 (at 27K), and now running the MP-8 and Smarty lvl7 together (started at 72K), truck still runs like the day it did new and the lift pump has to be getting a work out.

I don't think the factory lift pump is great, but it is just as or more reliable then these aftermarket electric units available, from what I have seen... The only advantages is that the aftermarket ones flow thru when they fail as the factory canister one will block the line. They pump more fuel "if" you really need it because you aren't helping anything if your are over pumping and just causing cavatation and more air bubbles from a redundant cycling through the system..

Sure the factory ones fail, but how many 1,000's of trucks out there are running the factory lp's that don't even visit these boards? Now how many aftermarket lift failures have you seen on these couple of boards?? There is a reason alot of aftermarket lift pump guys carry a spare.

The day my lift pump craps out (if it ever does) I will be replacing it with a mechanical set up not electric... I don't want to listen to the extra annoying buzzing/grinding noise from a aftermarket electric lp...

I just don't understand the "cheer leaders" that have aftermarket electric pumps say you MUST run one (factory pumps are junk) but then see occasional post on here about these same pumps failing in less then a year. It is ashame that no one could track the failure rates of aftermarket lift pumps verses factory ones, I bet the failure rate would be about x2 of a factory one.

So if you replace you pump with an aftermarket then you really should look at mechanical units compaired to electric...

Raspy

I can't wait to hear your story when your pump fails in the midddle of the night at about 500 miles from home. Then you can tell us how you had the time to re-design the entire fuel system to accomodate the new mechanical pump that you did not have with you. Meanwhile, many of us will be driving dependably with our nearly silent Walbro pumps and a spare cheapo in the tool box that can be swithed out, if needed, in about 15 minutes. My replacement Walbro has lasted 100,000 miles LONGER than the original Dodge pump and still works fine.

Just last night I was driving through the Sierras, in the middle of the night, with blowing snow, at 12 degrees. A two lane white road with high snow walls from the plows. That would have been an excellent place to start re-designing the fuel system. Not.

So dream on and your story will be very entertaining, or sad.

Asher

If your system is so good then why the need to carry a second pump??? At what mileage did your factory one fail, or did you pull it because it was the factory POS (but still working)? I would agree with you that you trip last night would have been a bad one if my lift pump failed, but even if I had your system I still wouldn't have put myself in danger or laying under a broken truck on a dark 2 lane road in the snow and 12 degrees changing it either, a little to dangerous of a situation. So I guess you carry a spare of every electrical sensor that would put you dead in the water also (CPS, throttle sensor, boost sensor, FP sensor, FCA), lift pump?? Maybe a spare flex plate?

My point is that, you are replacing an (OEM) electrical motor with another aftermarket electrical motor that really isn't any more realiable (and probably less) then the factory set up. SO if your going to replace the system for realiabilty then "upgrade" and go with something that is mechanical and proven for pretty much the same cost. But never forget that for every "aftermarket lp" truck out there, there's probably 1,000 "factory lp" trucks still running down the same road.

Again like I said, the factory lp isn't great but it's no where near as bad as many on here preach, and there are MANY trucks out there to prove this point. I learned a long time ago as a kid, "if it ain't broke, then don't fix it with something that is really no better".

Ace

Delivering 8-12psi of fuel through a 3/8" line at the flow rate even a highly modified engine will burn it isn't any really difficult task. You could do it with an incredibly costly filter/air/water remover. You could even do it with about a hundred different combinations of after-market parts that will all be more or less equally reliable. The stock in-tank pump system is fine, because it's flow through. Technically, with the CP3, sans extraordinary demands (big mods), you don't even need a lift pump at all.

Fuel system flavor of the day.

Raspy

I only carry a spare "cheapo" because I did get stranded with the stock pump failure and I did not have a long term reliability study on the Walbro. It doesn't hurt to carry a small part that might get me out of a jam I've already been in once before. Even mechanical pumps fail. Their diaphrams crack and suck air. Nothing is perfect. I prefer to use easy to get, off the shelf parts, whenever I can. No need to re-invent the wheel if it's not necessary.

Also, I really don't like the stock canister mounted pumps because, after mine failed and was replaced under warrantee with another of the same design, I installed the Walbro and took the stocker apart to see how they are made. After only 10,000 miles the motor brushes were very worn and it was clear that it would not have lasted very long. A poor design. Also, when the original failed it blocked the line so the CP3 could not "suck" through it and I was stuck. So, I'm sure there are many things that could fail. I just did my best with what I know will fail.

Ace

The reason I said "more or less equally reliable" above is because a big factor in reliability is the installation. You can have the most expensive, quality parts, but if the plumbing, wiring or other aspects of the install is not good, it will not be reliable or perform as expected. OTOH, you can have a very good, reliable system cobbed together with relatively cheap parts by someone who really knows what they are doing.

jennaspappy

I changed mine last week with 192000. Just quit pulling into my shop I was real lucky. i have edge chip been on it since 30k and AFE filter.

Ace

Only 192k? Piece o' junk!

jennaspappy

The guy that i bought my lift pump from here in Tulsa OK said they make a replacement that goes in tank from Dodge but I would rather pull 4 bolts than a tank full of fuel. new pump came with inline filter before pump I think that is a good ideal.. For the record I have only changed fuel filter 4 times in 192K.