[QUOTE]Originally posted by hfd376
And on the subject of drain pans, DON'T use the black 15 quart Blitz brand of drain pan. You know, the one that you can screw the LITTLE plug in the middle? The oil comes out faster than it can get into that little hole, and makes a decent mess on the floor. But don't ask how I know this .

Doug [/QUOTE

HA! I did the same thing...once. Then I took a utility knife with a new blade and cut the whole top out. Much better now.

 

funny you should mention that pan now...
I just came home from the store with exactly that.

So... will it work or not? I would guess that if you don't remove all three plugs it won't work right. I kind of liked the idea of draining into it, then sealing it and taking the whole thing over to the local dump which has a waste oil collection tank. If I cut it up it won't seal anymore.

Guess I'll try it and be careful.

btw - see my other post on API ratings... I've ordered my Ginos 4/2/1 and picked up three gallons of Rotella. I'll try this next weekend.

 

davelinde
I use the drain pan from Wally World too, I've never had it oferflow the top, but it does come really, really close. I open all three holes, center of course, mine has a yellow vent and I also take the cap off the spout. Like I said, it comes really, really close to overflowing, but mine has not as yet.

Good Luck.

 

Just get the Yellow one that is open on top and then you don't have to worry about it at all

 

I contacted blitz and got a few more of those yellow vent caps from them, which they sent for free. I drilled a hole in the top of the container and installed another vent. Never a problem again, it just simply fills too fast for the Blitz to replace the air. However, if you get the finger touch/fumoto valve, the flow is significantly slower, and you will not have any problems... That valve was the best 20 bux I spent on the truck.

Change your oil hot!! All of the soot, dirt, and particulate matter are suspended in the oil when it's hot and circulated.

 

My solution is to leave the cap off the pour spout. The oil doesn't come up high enough inside the pan to spill out, and there's plenty of airflow out to let the oil in. Really scared me the first time I used it on my truck, too. It got within 1/4" of overflowing.

 

I hate to see us beat a subject to death but, regarding oil drain pans, have you ever used a 5 gallon mud bucket? It won't work on my current truck but my 1992 4X4 (stock) had enough room to set the bucket under the oil drain. Most of the CTD's I see appear to be plenty tall enough to do the same thing.

 

WoW all about an oil change?
Get the all yellow drain pan from wally world, and also buy a cheap plastic fuel type can...5 Gal......when done draining oil pour the oil into the plastic jug.......put the cap on and get rid of it!
Man I don't believe this thread.

 

...at the risk of adding more mundane to the already mundane...

My experience: with the vent open AND spout open the Walmart pan will drain fast enough to keep from overflowing. However, it did come very close, with the spout closed I'm sure it would have made a big mess - THANKS for the warning.

Also, I did have a little trouble getting the filter off - my strap wrench wasn't big enough so I ended up using a woodworking clamp to give myself enough leverage. Just using my hand to install the new filter I couldn't get 3/4 turn on it... more like 1/2 turn - but it seems tight.

I went looking for a tool for this, but none of the filter tools I saw were big enough. What are people using?

Also, is it just my imagination or does the truck have more of an oil smell about it after you change to fresh oil?

 

If you use Rotella, like I did, it sure will.

Doug

 

Wally world has a 6 in 1 filter wrench that works perfect, it was like $4, and in those oil pans your talking about let the oil hit right in the center hole of the pan and it will take it with out over-flowing.

 

serviced my truck today. the engine was dead cold [hadn't been run for 12+ hrs] i parked it yesterday where i was going to do the oil change. this morning, i tossed my 20liter pail under the sump, and pulled the plug. while that was draining, i pulled the filter [no drips at all from the filter if you let it sit a long time] clean off the mating surface for the filter, prefill new filter and install. go get the rest of my oil ready [engine lube and transmission lube], install oil drain plug, dump in the rest of the oil, start up check for leaks, then shut down. drain trans and pop pto cover off. clean up cover and apply dow corning 832 silicon and let it skin, mop out oil in trans and remove magnet and clean and reinstall it. put pto cover back on and coat screw threads with permatex#2 to seal them. while silicon is curing, change out fuel filter [need to extend that drain hose for the next change, made a mess this time ] finish of by putting in the 4.5qt of mopar gold plated oil to the tranny [hey, it was only $0.15/qt more than the quakerstate synchromesh stuff, and was in stock] and greasing the 2 zerks we have

wash up, and take for test drive. trans shifts a bit smoother now [which is what i was after] check oil level sitting on level ground, is right at the top of the full mark


i used petrocanada duron 5w40 synthetic this time... it smells as much as rotella... need to extend the draft tube to past the cab...

funny though, boost seems lower [by about 1 psi] now at full load. egt seems the same...

 

you change 4 1/2 qts of the trans fluid at once?
on what interval? isn't there a lot more than that in there that mixes with the new stuff?

Just wondering. I was planning on getting a new trans pan soon and was still not clear on what to do with the trans fluid...

 

mine's a 6speed manual. 4.5qt is all there is in there... i just changed it out cause i had a little notchy shifting starting to develop. 5th gear sometimes clunks into place, like the synchros atn't doing their job right. i've got enough of the mopar stuff to do another change over next year this time, then after that, i'll go with redline mtl or similar full synthetic.