Tell me if this procedure is correct, I'm changing my rear brakes & e-brake shoes for the first time, also changing rear axle oil. There are no manuals for sale locally & Dealer is closed. I've searched these pages for hours and I've come up with this:

1) Drain level M80 axle, after brake job add 85-122oz of 85w-140 HD-hypo id-LSD GL-5+ gear oil, hand tighten drain plug, check breather for obstructions.

2) Jack & stand axle @ a slight angle to avoid oil running out (if full), tires off

3) Hang wire over leaf springs to support removed caliper
---Do I need to back off E-brake shoes? Flat screwdriver in, handle moving down to back off??----

4)Remove the eight 9/16 bolts on the 4 3/4" diameter axle cover (proper name?)
---What is the proper re-torque for these 9/16 bolts? They have 6 lines on the head.---

5) Use a 2 9/16" thin wall socket to remove axle nut, may have a retaining clip
---What do I re-torque the 2 9/16" nut to?---

6) Have rag in hand, slide out axle
---do I need to mark it & return it in the same exact place?---

7) Remove rotor/drum?
---Should it just slide out?

8) Replace E-brake shoes in a way similar to regular drum brakes?

9) Lube E-brake cable w/ silicone, graphite, PB???

10) Replace rotor/drum, axle, end cover, do not shear off any of the 9/16" cover bolts. Be ready, because they probably will.

11) Replace disc brake pads & return caliper

12) Adjust E-brake spindle nut until there is slight pressure when turning rotor by hand. Back off ____? many turns

Re-torque wheels to 145ft/lbs, recheck in 100 miles

I'm going after the e-brake shoes because there is something loose in there (right side).

Thank you for any help.

----What I really need is the torque specs for the eight 9/16" bolts & the axle nut.----

 

I didnt know you had drums and shoes in the back but now assuming that you do...
http://dodgeram.info/tsb/1997/05-04-97.htm

the rears aren't bad...work on one side at a time...have a good look at both sides first to see how things are arranged...my rears were not perfect mirror images cause the E brake lines enter my drum from different directions...u need good locking plyers!!!...unless u have the special tools..i didnt...u gotta be patient with the springs...aside from that not a bad job

don't forget to adjust them manually...never rely on that self adjustign mechanism