Devinraptor

In the last sixty days I have put almost $4200 dollars in to my truck in repairs. I own both Chevy and Ford Diesels for work and can't say I have ever had this much of an ordeal as I have had with my Dodge. I'm a long time Dodge fan but I starting to lose hope in this truck. It all started in September with the brakes not fully releasing after a stop, at first the shop thought it was front calipers and the trial and error process started. To date I have replaced front and rear calipers, all four rotors, all four pads and numerous other things not related to brake issues. At any rate the brakes are still catching it would appear to be the rear. Any Ideas? I have had 8 different mechanics look at this truck they either don't notice the problem or cannot diagnose it. I look forward to any ideas, thank you.

I forgot to mention this truck has been serviced exactly according to the manual starting from day one. I run an Edge attitude it remains on the stock setting 99% of the time. Thank you again.

TX_Diesel

Sorry to hear that your loosing faith but i dont' think it's a 'dodge thing as much as just a problem with the truck that you can't find. it could happen with any brand auto.

I have a friend who had a ford got a lift put on by 4wheel parts, long story short there was a shimy in the rear end and nobody could ever find out what it was, he ended up selling it...

Good luck with your problem.

Devinraptor

Thanks for the reply. I would hate to sell it but I can't afford to keep pouring money in it. I run 13 other vehicles for a mixture of business and personal. I take better care of this one than any of the others. My vehicles range from 1999 to 2007. I can't say I recall putting more than 1000-1500 for a repair on any of those vehicles, some even being Dodges. Hopefully I will be able to get this solved soon.

gadget.35-06

I read somewhere that if you push the brake fluid back to the master instead of bleeding it out during a brake job the ABS is likely to clog and cause braking disorders...have you tried a complete fluid change? Might be cheaper than doing something drastic!

Sur5er

Change the rubber hoses! When they deteriorate they act like one way valves.

gadget.35-06

There y' go! Some steel-braided Teflon hoses and a full flushout might be a good finish to the brake overhaul.

.boB

Rather than just guessing and throwing parts at it, find a mechanic who will spend some time and actually dfiagnose the problem.

First step would be to measure brake presure at each corner. The most important piece of info for you is what the pressure is when the pedal is released.

http://www.stu-offroad.com/suspensio...e-pressure.htm

Sur5er

Looks like you've been the route of trying to get someone else to figure out the problem. Diagnosing should be easy and straightforward. Apply brakes with a firm push, release brakes, and crack bleeder. If fluid exits under pressure and pads release, replace the hoses. Do for each caliper starting with the R Rear, then L Rear, then R Front and finally L Front. Always do the caliper furthest away from the master cylinder first. Internal failure of brake hoses is a very common problem. Once you replace hoses flush the system.

chrism69

I know your feeling, I put over $8,000 into my 06 ram 2500 in the last 6 months.
Ball Joints,Front universals, front bearing hubs,brakes and rotors that was at 52,000 babied miles.
TC went at 62,000 ended up putting an ATS tranny in because it was cheaper than doing the TC,valve body and trans pump.
Then the flex plate let go 7000 mi after the trans install. Dealer did under warranty but I bought A BD flex plate which dealer installed. The Mopar flex plate is weak which I didn't know and it is made in CHINA.
I know your pain.

Devinraptor

The rubber hoses on the front were replaced. But the hoses on the rear are original. At any rate, hope this isn't a stupid question how do you do a complete flush I know how to bleed the system, have done it a couple times now. But what is the correct way to do a full system flush.

rockcrawler304

The way I do a complete flush is to first suck out all the fluid from the master and replace. I then use a home made pressure bleeder (but you can use a second person pumping the peddle) to pressurize the system and keep the fluid full. Then like said above, start and RR caliper and crack open the bleeder and let the fluid drain out into a clear container until you see the fluid go from dark to clear-ish. Repeat with LR then RF then finally LF. Buy 2 of the larger bottles of fluid cuz you will use a pretty good amount!

AkitaSumo

You will find lots of tips on how to bleed your brakes here...

https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...d-t252157.html

Sur5er

What Rockcrawler said! If you have a "friend" that has a pressure bleeder it makes it a one person operation. One suggestion if using a pressure bleeder is to shut the pressure bleeder off before you close the caliper bleeder. It will save you on clean up if the system isn't pressurized.

The system will gravity bleed if you crack open the bleeder and just wait until all the bubbles are gone and you have clear DOT4 running out. Don't press and release pedal with bleeder open or you will suck in a ton of air.

belliott

the ABS module could be the cause.
ABS modules have rubber plugsthat can be removed for testing. remove plug, then using a paper clip have someone depress the brake pedal, the solenoid plunger should not move.
But if i had to guess, i might would recheck the rear calipers. if the vehicle doesnt have a pronounced left are right pull, it would seem that it it not a single wheel, which could also mean the abs module is going bad.

BigIron70

I have seen brake booster causing similar problem. If the booster is binding internally it could keep brakes applied. When your rear brakes are dragging try loosening the master cylinder from the hydro-boost. Pull master cylinder away from booster do not disconnect any brakes lines, if rear wheels release then you most likely have brake booster sticking.