long crank time to start
#1
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long crank time to start
Okay, guys I have been away for awhile because of 12 hour work shifts, But I have recently started having long cranking issues after an oil and filter change, with block heater being used it is a shorter crank, but if it has just been sitting in the parking lot at work it takes about 10 seconds and kind of seems to be a rolling start. Any ideas?? warm its about 5 seconds , cold it is enough to start the abs light about 15 seconds maybe a little longer.
#4
how many miles on it?
my 03 starts faster if i turn the key on and go straight to crank real fast.
i dont wait for the yellow light to go off unless it's cold out, like below 45 degrees
my 03 starts faster if i turn the key on and go straight to crank real fast.
i dont wait for the yellow light to go off unless it's cold out, like below 45 degrees
#6
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Likely a high pressure fuel leak. It's either 1 or more loose connecting tubes, a leaking relief valve, or a bad injector. To rule out the injector, does your oil level stay at the full mark, or does it seem to rise?
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#8
that mileage seems to be the mileage a injector fails.
i pulled all 6 of mine when it had starting issues and had them all tested, seem to be the easiest thing to do and eliminate the most likely problem, which it was.
i pulled all 6 of mine when it had starting issues and had them all tested, seem to be the easiest thing to do and eliminate the most likely problem, which it was.
#9
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I don't see you having an aftermarket lift pump or filtering. The lift pump could be failing as it it isn't priming the CP3 pump and it is having to try to draw through it to raise rail pressure enough. Or the fuel filter is bad as well. An injector(s) is likely since no extra filtration as well. I would find Diesel Performan shop in the area if you don't fuel pressure guage. Have them test pressure at the pump. Then if they have a Dodge scanner or aftermarket fuel rail pressure tester have them test the fuel rail pressure as well. Once the truck is started and turn off it should hold pressure. If it leaks off you have an injector or relieve valve going. There is back flow test as well but if I recall that requires an injector to be pulled. Just trying to give you cheap, easy suggestions before you have injectors pulled and tested, unless you have the mean to pull them then can afford the truck to be down a couple weeks while they are sent off to testing. Not alot of shops can test these injectors as to truely test them take a flow bench and to really test them takes a bosch common rail flow bench and bosch only hands those out to big shops as the are expenive and to keep their bosch certification they have to spend big bucks on a clean room. Industrial is one company i know has it. Don M tests them as well not sure if certified but does good work I hear. There might be a bosch dealer there as well that might do it but usually they don't like to mess with our trucks and injectors. Rule out the lift pump first before injectors. I had the same issue as well and it was my injectors in the long run but my lift pump died and gave simular issues then the injectors were gone about 30k later.
#10
if you have a way to check your rail pressure when it wont start, that is what will tell the story or give you valuable information for the next step.
it would not hurt to remove the injector lines and check the torque of the nut that pushes the tubes into the injectors.
that is free and only takes a hour or less.
it would not hurt to remove the injector lines and check the torque of the nut that pushes the tubes into the injectors.
that is free and only takes a hour or less.
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