Intake Heater Delete
Intake Heater Delete
Here is my problem. I have posted serveral times about my 03 hard starting problem when it is cold weather. I am finally out of the denial stage about a leaking injector. I have been saving for some ddp's or f1's and my airdog 100 will be here and installed this week. The problem is, I don't want my truck to be down until after Christmas. Please dont flame me for asking this but, can I unhook my grid heater and use a shot of starting fluid to get my truck started when I don't have access to a power outlet to plug in the block heater? I will always plug in the heater when available but with hunting season in, and taking a trip to Arkansas at the end of the month, I need to temp. be able to depend on my truck starting? Like I said, please don't bash me for asking. I know starting fluid is not good for a engine but can I do this for a few weeks?
Thanks
Thanks
Starting fluid is fine for Diesel engines (as it is for gas engines) What is bad is that dodge has the grid heater in the intake, this can make the starter fluid explode (in the intake) not good, that can do a lot of damage. Others like Ford/chevy use glow plugs (some also use grid heaters now) don't mind it as much cause it's already in the cylinder. My question would be why the hard starts? is it fuel related? Mine has started fine in the winter, even with no grid heater it just smokes a bit more (lowest I ever started mine was -20) not plugged in or anything. Smoked like a train for a min or two, but then cleared up. Didn't get past 140 degree's all day, with the radiator completely blocked (stupid cold).
How long does the truck crank in the cold? Should fire in a few seconds, even mine fired after about 3 seconds at that temp (after grid heaters) but again they only really work once air is moving past them. Just my opinion.
How long does the truck crank in the cold? Should fire in a few seconds, even mine fired after about 3 seconds at that temp (after grid heaters) but again they only really work once air is moving past them. Just my opinion.
How do you plan to get the starting fluid into the intake? Lots of piping and the intercooler before the intake manifold.
Be sure not to overfill the piping starting fluid. Nothing like listening to a Cummins turning 4-5k rpm until all the fuel burns out.
Don't ask how I figured that one out
I'd use WD40 instead. Not so violent sounding when it finally starts.
You should really find out what the problem is though.
Be sure not to overfill the piping starting fluid. Nothing like listening to a Cummins turning 4-5k rpm until all the fuel burns out.
Don't ask how I figured that one out
I'd use WD40 instead. Not so violent sounding when it finally starts.
You should really find out what the problem is though.
Good plan
You can unhook the relays or the fusible link from the battery, I do the relays; actually put a switch on the relay grounds because the engine doesn't need the heaters most of the time anyway. Just make sure the things aren't working when you start spraying combustibles in the manifold. The batteries and alternator will last longer as well. When I have used starting aids I used the 1/8" pipe thread plugs. Not sure if the 24v engines have them in the same place but it needs to know the boost from somewhere; you could even take out one of the grid headers and use the power post hole from it. WD-40 is safer but doesn't work nearly as well. Zero-stat has kits where you hit a button and it gives a shot into the manifold. Propane works as well, probably the best but harder to make work unless you do a little more plumbing.
hope this helps, cd
hope this helps, cd
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Thanks, I got it started this morning after unhooking the relays and using the little blue can of spray. I routed a line with a removable cap on the end. I will use the block heater when available, but nice to know Im not going to be stranded until I can get my sticks replaced.
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