Inline Fuel Filters
#1
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Location: Humble, TX
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Inline Fuel Filters
I want to add a 2 micron filter system to my truck, but I've noticed all the systems for the Dodge have lift pump with them. Is it possible to put a 2 micron filter in the fuel system without an additional lift pump? Or is the lift pump in the tank just not up to the job with the additional filter in the system?
#2
The in tank lift pump in your 2006 CTD Ram is capable of pushing through the factory filter, a Mopar B-20 water filter and a 2 micron Fleetguard filter under the frame. I also installed a 5 psi low lift pump pressure warning light at the factory filter. I have had no problems. The factory filter is the last filter because I can inspect it at every oil change and see that the other 2 filters are not passing through debris.
#3
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yes, Im running a Baldwin W/S filter, Caterpillar 2 micron filter, and the factory 7 micron Fleetguard all being fed by the factory in tank pump.
No problems.
No problems.
#6
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do not worry about the heater, here is a how to for the very best for $90
we mount the filters just forward of the fuel tank. we run a fleet of dodges and recently installed one on a 06. there is two bolts through the floor board for a rear seat option at this location. some of our trucks use them others do not. get a 2" x 3" piece of angle iron 6" long. make a card board template that the two bolts and keeper nuts will go through hold the template on the inside against the 2" part and drill the two holes they will be about 5/8" i think and about 3 7/8 " between. center the holes on the 2" and near the edge on the 2" hold the angle iron over the bolts with the 3"part the furtherest away from the tank and drill a 1/4" hole between the two holes, keep drilling through the floor board. now after you mount the filters to the angle iron just simply mount it with a 1/4 grade 8 bolt. this is the only hard part the other items is easy. the total time including building the bracket is about 1 1/2 hours. i will give you napa numbers but they can cross reference to wix or car quest. the two bases are 4770 the water separator pre filter is 3406 the 2 micron filter is 3674. use a 3/8" nipple with about 1/2" space in the middle connect the two bases together observing the in and out. because of this the mounting plate on one filter base is about 1" further out than the other. install two 90* 3/8" barbed fittings on the bases and temporary bolt the angle iron up and hold the filters up to it. make sure everything clears and mark the one base that touches the plate to drill the three holes to mount the filters. next cut the feed fuel line at this location and bend the lines out a little and install 3/8 hose over the lines and to the barbed fittings. i put a small amount of flair on the steel lines. but i do not think it is necessary. Bleed the air out through the stock filter before trying to start it. use a gauge and do not change the filters until you see a four pound drop this should be about every 150,000 miles and the stock filter will never need to be changed. Cheapest place is http://www.fleetfilter.com/filters/w...ter-bases.html
your filter base has two inlets and two outlets on each base be careful to connect the nipple between the outlet of the first filter to the inlet of the second. only one of the bases get's the bolts as the offset places the second base about a inch away from the plate. we use to make spacers on the first ones and then decided they were not needed
we mount the filters just forward of the fuel tank. we run a fleet of dodges and recently installed one on a 06. there is two bolts through the floor board for a rear seat option at this location. some of our trucks use them others do not. get a 2" x 3" piece of angle iron 6" long. make a card board template that the two bolts and keeper nuts will go through hold the template on the inside against the 2" part and drill the two holes they will be about 5/8" i think and about 3 7/8 " between. center the holes on the 2" and near the edge on the 2" hold the angle iron over the bolts with the 3"part the furtherest away from the tank and drill a 1/4" hole between the two holes, keep drilling through the floor board. now after you mount the filters to the angle iron just simply mount it with a 1/4 grade 8 bolt. this is the only hard part the other items is easy. the total time including building the bracket is about 1 1/2 hours. i will give you napa numbers but they can cross reference to wix or car quest. the two bases are 4770 the water separator pre filter is 3406 the 2 micron filter is 3674. use a 3/8" nipple with about 1/2" space in the middle connect the two bases together observing the in and out. because of this the mounting plate on one filter base is about 1" further out than the other. install two 90* 3/8" barbed fittings on the bases and temporary bolt the angle iron up and hold the filters up to it. make sure everything clears and mark the one base that touches the plate to drill the three holes to mount the filters. next cut the feed fuel line at this location and bend the lines out a little and install 3/8 hose over the lines and to the barbed fittings. i put a small amount of flair on the steel lines. but i do not think it is necessary. Bleed the air out through the stock filter before trying to start it. use a gauge and do not change the filters until you see a four pound drop this should be about every 150,000 miles and the stock filter will never need to be changed. Cheapest place is http://www.fleetfilter.com/filters/w...ter-bases.html
your filter base has two inlets and two outlets on each base be careful to connect the nipple between the outlet of the first filter to the inlet of the second. only one of the bases get's the bolts as the offset places the second base about a inch away from the plate. we use to make spacers on the first ones and then decided they were not needed
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#9
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Glacier Diesel Power offers a great 2 micron filter system for Rams. I put one on my 06. Very easy and clean install. It goes between the OEM and the injector pump. http://www.glacierdieselpower.com/
One thing I have read several times over is that the 2 micron should be installed down stream from the OEM as the larger particles may/will clog it up.
One thing I have read several times over is that the 2 micron should be installed down stream from the OEM as the larger particles may/will clog it up.
#10
Advocate of getting the ban button used on him...
Glacier Diesel Power offers a great 2 micron filter system for Rams. I put one on my 06. Very easy and clean install. It goes between the OEM and the injector pump. http://www.glacierdieselpower.com/
One thing I have read several times over is that the 2 micron should be installed down stream from the OEM as the larger particles may/will clog it up.
One thing I have read several times over is that the 2 micron should be installed down stream from the OEM as the larger particles may/will clog it up.
For those that run it before the OEM 7 (or 10) micron factory filter do you have any issues? Do you ever change the factory canister filter?
I ask because I would like to run a 2 mic filter set up but my bypass oil filter is in the way so I would need to put mine somewhere before the canister.
#11
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I have the GDP kit on mine too.
I think I'd find a way to put it downstream of the factory filter, so you have the fuel heater and water sep ahead of the 2 micron.
I think they have, or had, a kit with everything but the mount bracket, for situations where you need to mount the 2 micron somewhere other than under the intake horn and were going to make your own bracket.
I think I'd find a way to put it downstream of the factory filter, so you have the fuel heater and water sep ahead of the 2 micron.
I think they have, or had, a kit with everything but the mount bracket, for situations where you need to mount the 2 micron somewhere other than under the intake horn and were going to make your own bracket.
#12
There is no G. There is no G. Repeat after me, THERE IS NO G!
I have the GDP 2mic filter after the stock can.
Rockcrawler, since I don't have a fuel pressure gauge I am planning to change the 2mic filter at 10k to be safe and the stock filter (Baldwin 7977) at the regular interval (I can't remember) If I ever finally put a FP gauge I plan to use that as my indicator, IIRC it was anything below 6psi right? (Someone correct my info if needed)
I don't run a lot of miles in a year so I'm just now coming up on the 10k mark for the Cat and I changed the stock filter before our move.
I still intended to add a F/W sep on the rail between the tank and stock can in order to filter out sediment and put an end to sediment in the can.
Rockcrawler, since I don't have a fuel pressure gauge I am planning to change the 2mic filter at 10k to be safe and the stock filter (Baldwin 7977) at the regular interval (I can't remember) If I ever finally put a FP gauge I plan to use that as my indicator, IIRC it was anything below 6psi right? (Someone correct my info if needed)
I don't run a lot of miles in a year so I'm just now coming up on the 10k mark for the Cat and I changed the stock filter before our move.
I still intended to add a F/W sep on the rail between the tank and stock can in order to filter out sediment and put an end to sediment in the can.
#13
Advocate of getting the ban button used on him...
I have the GDP 2mic filter after the stock can.
Rockcrawler, since I don't have a fuel pressure gauge I am planning to change the 2mic filter at 10k to be safe and the stock filter (Baldwin 7977) at the regular interval (I can't remember) If I ever finally put a FP gauge I plan to use that as my indicator, IIRC it was anything below 6psi right? (Someone correct my info if needed)
I don't run a lot of miles in a year so I'm just now coming up on the 10k mark for the Cat and I changed the stock filter before our move.
I still intended to add a F/W sep on the rail between the tank and stock can in order to filter out sediment and put an end to sediment in the can.
Rockcrawler, since I don't have a fuel pressure gauge I am planning to change the 2mic filter at 10k to be safe and the stock filter (Baldwin 7977) at the regular interval (I can't remember) If I ever finally put a FP gauge I plan to use that as my indicator, IIRC it was anything below 6psi right? (Someone correct my info if needed)
I don't run a lot of miles in a year so I'm just now coming up on the 10k mark for the Cat and I changed the stock filter before our move.
I still intended to add a F/W sep on the rail between the tank and stock can in order to filter out sediment and put an end to sediment in the can.
Just looking for more info on that or if I should just "Make it all fit" under the intake horn
#14
Registered User
I have the GDP 2mic filter after the stock can.
Rockcrawler, since I don't have a fuel pressure gauge I am planning to change the 2mic filter at 10k to be safe and the stock filter (Baldwin 7977) at the regular interval (I can't remember) If I ever finally put a FP gauge I plan to use that as my indicator, IIRC it was anything below 6psi right? (Someone correct my info if needed)
I don't run a lot of miles in a year so I'm just now coming up on the 10k mark for the Cat and I changed the stock filter before our move.
I still intended to add a F/W sep on the rail between the tank and stock can in order to filter out sediment and put an end to sediment in the can.
Rockcrawler, since I don't have a fuel pressure gauge I am planning to change the 2mic filter at 10k to be safe and the stock filter (Baldwin 7977) at the regular interval (I can't remember) If I ever finally put a FP gauge I plan to use that as my indicator, IIRC it was anything below 6psi right? (Someone correct my info if needed)
I don't run a lot of miles in a year so I'm just now coming up on the 10k mark for the Cat and I changed the stock filter before our move.
I still intended to add a F/W sep on the rail between the tank and stock can in order to filter out sediment and put an end to sediment in the can.
Jim Otto
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