sallyman1

I read that if you have fuel in the banjo bolt fitting ontop of the rail relief that you have a faulty relief. is this true? and if so how much are they roughly or how do you cap? right now i have my rail off completely as i was going to blow compressed air/brake clean through it to clean it out before injector installation.

mj1044

what ws told to me is that if it does have fuel there it has popped of and is bad. They said it was like 500 bucks from dodge. they sold me the whole rail with pop of vaule and new sensor for like 350.00. to cap it you need the right tread size bolt to just screw in were the banjo bolt was.

bradler

not necessarily true. fuel can come from return to cp3 and pool up on top of rail relief valve. once you put everything back together, best way to check is get the special bajo bolt fitting that screws into top of relief valve that has a line coming off it to measure fuel leaking by valve, and test it under range of rail pressure. but who wants to buy on those so i would just undo the banjo bolt, tape a bag or something over the end of the return line to cp3 so it doesn't drip everywhere, dry up all the fuel on top of the relief valve and fire her up. if its bad you will be able to see new fuel on top of the valve. personally if its not leaking i would leave it alone (its there for a reason) but lots of guys cap it and don't have any problems. its actually cheaper to buy a new rail with valve than replace just the valve... cheapest fix if its bad is to tap the inside of the banjo bolt and put an npt plug in there, grind it flush and reinstall. or if you have extra $$ floor it and some other places have stainless replacement for entire valve or solid banjos...

sallyman1

what size thread is the bolt? do you replace the entire bolt or tap a plug into the bottom of the existing bolt? id rather just buy a bolt the same length. do you have the dimensions (of bolt)because i dont hae the bolt or rail by me now?

bradler

first i tried a replacement bolt but the problem is there are two special washers that the bolt goes through that compress/ seal the top and bottom of the spherical fitting on the end of the return line. a normal bolt like the one i got from the hardware store doesn't work well because the threads keep the washers from sealing, which is how i found out fuel can flow from that return line because it leeked out with a normal bolt. that is why i think just putting a plug in the bottom of the banjo is best. not sure off hand, but there is a tap (1/4in maybe) that fits perfectly inside banjo. i couldn't get mine threaded far enough to get the plug in all the way, so ground it flush with the bottom of the bajo

mj1044

i took the banjo bolt to hardware store and got the closest thing i could. then i wraped it with teflon tape and put it in. craked it and the fuel came out around the bolt. i didnt tighten it down to hard because i didnt want to strip nothing. it was for sure poped.

bradler

exactly the problem with a normal bolt from hardware store. i guess you already replaced your rail, but just because you saw it leaking around that bolt still doesn't mean it was blown. mine leaked around the bolt, just like yours, so thats when i removed the return line and put a bag over it, dried the top of the valve, and fired it up. No fuel coming through the valve up to 18k rail pressure, but minor fuel dripping from that return line into the bag. maybe i have a problem with cp3, but there was definitely fuel coming from the return line...

mj1044

mine was almost at a gushing stat around the bolt. it had pressure on it.

sallyman1

wow. weird how some reliefs are defective? ill do the tap with 1/8 npt tap and allan plug. any1 else have luck with this?will i need to worry about rail being capped/pressures getting too high? i always drive edge juice on level 1?