3rd Gen Engine and Drivetrain -> 2003-2007 5.9 liter Engine and drivetrain discussion only. PLEASE, NO HIGH PERFORMANCE DISCUSSION!

How to remove engine?

Old Oct 4, 2008 | 02:39 AM
  #1  
DutchYellowRam's Avatar
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From: Holland
Angry How to remove engine?

I have a loud knock in my engine

We checked all the valve's they are good.
We checked the injectors they are also good.

So we think it is somethink like the piston's or bearings.

We want to take the engine out of the truck.

I've ones heard someone say that you need to remove the whole front including bumpers. Is that true??




Roel
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Old Oct 4, 2008 | 03:53 AM
  #2  
BigIron70's Avatar
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From: Sunny Southern California Land of Fruits and Nuts
Yes, that is very true. Why not remove cylinder head first? If piston is bad you will be able to see damaged piston. It will make removing engine a little easier too, less weight and more clearance to remove engine block. Still need a heavy duty engine hoist. Very big job, I would be sure you need to remove engine to make repairs first.

REMOVAL - ENGINE
1 - ELECTRICAL CONNECTOR
2 - VISCOUS FAN DRIVE
3 - FAN BLADE
4 - BOLT (6)
5 - RADIATOR FAN PULLEY


Disconnect both battery negative cables.
Disconnect engine grid heater harness at grid heater relays.
Disconnect electrical connections from rear of alternator.
Recover A/C refrigerant. (Refer to 24 - HEATING & AIR CONDITIONING/PLUMBING - STANDARD PROCEDURE).
Raise vehicle on a hoist.
Drain engine coolant (Refer to 7 - COOLING - STANDARD PROCEDURE).
Remove engine oil drain plug and drain engine oil.
Reinstall drain plug. Tighten to 50 N·m (37 ft. lbs.) torque.
Lower the vehicle.
Remove fan (3) and fan drive (2). Refer to (Refer to 7 - COOLING/ENGINE/RADIATOR FAN - REMOVAL).



1 - WIRING BRACKET
2 - WIRING BRACKET MOUNTING BOLT
3 - SHROUD MOUNTING BRACKET
4 - ELECTRONICALLY CONTROLLED VISCOUS FAN CONNECTOR


Remove fan shroud mounting bracket (3) and shroud. Refer to (Refer to 7 - COOLING/ENGINE/RADIATOR FAN - REMOVAL).
Remove radiator upper hose.
Disconnect the coolant recovery bottle hose from the radiator fill neck.
Disconnect heater core supply and return hoses from the cylinder head fitting and coolant pipe.
Raise vehicle on a hoist.
Remove transmission and transfer case (if equipped).
Disconnect exhaust pipe from turbocharger extension pipe.
Disconnect engine harness to vehicle harness connectors.



1 - MOUNTING BOLTS (3)
2 - STARTER MOTOR
3 - SPACER (CERTAIN TRANSMISSIONS)


Remove starter motor (2)(Refer to 8 - ELECTRICAL/STARTING/STARTER MOTOR - REMOVAL).
Remove flywheel/flexplate.
Remove transmission adapter.

Disconnect A/C suction/discharge hose from the rear of the A/C compressor.
Lower vehicle.
Disconnect lower radiator hose from radiator outlet.
Automatic transmission models:
Disconnect transmission oil cooler lines from in front of radiator using special tool #6931
Remove radiator. (Refer to 7 - COOLING/ENGINE/RADIATOR - REMOVAL).
If A/C equipped, disconnect A/C condenser refrigerant lines.


1 - BOLT
2 - CHARGE AIR COOLER
3 - CLAMP
4 - BOOST TUBE


Disconnect charge air cooler piping.
Remove charge air cooler mounting bolts (1).
Remove charge air cooler (2) from vehicle.



1 - A/C CONDENSOR
2 - TRANSMISSION COOLER
3 - INTERCOOLER


Remove the A/C condenser (1).
Remove damper and speed indicator ring from front of engine.



1 - WIRING BRACKET
2 - WIRING BRACKET MOUNTING BOLT
3 - SHROUD MOUNTING BRACKET
4 - ELECTRONICALLY CONTROLLED VISCOUS FAN CONNECTOR


Remove lower fan shroud bracket (3) from engine.
Remove upper fan shroud brackets from engine.
Disconnect engine block heater connector.
Disconnect A/C compressor and pressure sensor electrical connectors.
Remove the passenger battery ground cable from the engine block. Remove the driver side battery ground cable from the engine block.
Remove power steering pump from engine by removing 3 bolts.
Disconnect the ECM power connector.
Disconnect the ECM ground wire from the hydroform screw.
Disconnect the fuel supply and return hoses.



1 - Hex Head Screws With Integrated Rubber Isolators
2 - Cylinder Head Cover ( Isolated )
3 - Cylinder Head Cover Ground Spring


NOTE: For early builds, Ensure that grounding spring (3) remains intact with cylinder head cover (2).

FOR EARLY BUILDS Remove the cylinder head cover (2)and grounding spring (3). (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/CYLINDER HEAD/CYLINDER HEAD COVER(S) - REMOVAL).
FOR EARLY BUILDS Disconnect the 3 injector harness connectors at the rocker housing. Disconnect the wire harnesses from the injectors.



1 - CYLINDER HEAD COVER
2 - CYLINDER HEAD COVER GASKET
3 - INJECTOR HARNESS CONNECTORS


FOR LATE BUILDS Remove the cylinder head cover (1). (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/CYLINDER HEAD/CYLINDER HEAD COVER(S) - REMOVAL).
FOR LATE BUILDS Disconnect the wire harnesses from the injectors (3).
FOR LATE BUILDS Remove the cylinder head cover carrier gasket (2).
NOTE: Extreme care should be used to keep dirt/debris from entering the fuel lines. Plastic caps should be used on the ends of the fuel lines.

Loosen # 6 fuel line shield bolts and rotate shield out of the way.
Remove cylinder # 5 and # 6 high pressure fuel lines.
Remove the rear engine lift bracket.



1 - ROCKER ARM
2 - PEDESTAL


Remove cylinder # 4, # 5, and # 6 intake and exhaust rocker arms (1), pedestals (2), and push tubes. Note the original location for reassembly.
Remove the fuel connector tube nut and fuel connector tube. Remove cylinder # 5 and # 6 fuel injector.
Remove rocker housing.



1 - Head bolt
2 - Engine Lift Bracket
3 - Head Bolt


Remove two cylinder head bolts (1) according to the diagram and install Tool # 9009 (2). Torque bolts to 105 N·m (77 ft. lbs.).
Loosen but do not remove engine mount through bolts and nuts.
Disconnect hood support struts and position hood out of the way.
Attach a chain with two hooks to the engine lift brackets.
While keeping engine level, lift straight up out of the mounts.
Rotate nose of engine upward and pull out of chassis.
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Old Oct 4, 2008 | 05:35 AM
  #3  
DutchYellowRam's Avatar
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From: Holland
Thanks a lot.

My neighbour is an mechanic, he is doing the job.

The plan was to use a very small camera(like they have is hospitals) And put that camara in the injector hole's to look at the inside of the cilinder head and pistons.

But the first camera was 2mm to large.
The second camera is in Germany
And the third camera isn't working.

So my truck is now standing still for 3 weeks.


How much does the engine weight? I have heard more then 800KG is that true?
And how much does the cilinder head weight?



I will print everythink and give it to my neighbour.


Roel
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Old Oct 4, 2008 | 07:09 AM
  #4  
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From: Jacksonville, NC
Yeah, they ain't light, but I don't have the specs on them. At least 2x of a gas motor.
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Old Oct 4, 2008 | 10:08 AM
  #5  
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From: Cochrane Alberta
I just pulled my head off. I used an engine hoist. It would be VERY difficult for two people to lift it off.

I believe the engine can come out without dropping the tranny but the oil pan would have to come off first. I got mine off fairly easily by removing the valve cover and loosening the motor mounts then lifting the engine till it just touched the cowl. After that the oil pan slid out the back easily. Once its off the pickup can be removed. Now there is nothing to get caught up on the cross member and the engine can come straight out.
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Old Oct 4, 2008 | 11:52 AM
  #6  
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From: Ila georgia
Engine is right at 1000lbs
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Old Oct 4, 2008 | 05:59 PM
  #7  
rich's Avatar
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From: Kerrville eastern new mexico, west texas
head weighs at least 200 pounds it was all me and another guy could do to take it off the motor
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Old Oct 6, 2008 | 01:56 AM
  #8  
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From: Holland
Thanks everyone

I will print this and give it to my neighbour.




Roel
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Old Oct 26, 2008 | 01:16 PM
  #9  
XLR8R's Avatar
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From: Pattonville, Texas
Originally Posted by cLAYH
I just pulled my head off. I used an engine hoist. It would be VERY difficult for two people to lift it off.
I pulled the head off a CR in the shop last week by myself (no one else was around to help)... one day I prob'ly need to start using a hoist!
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Old Oct 26, 2008 | 01:26 PM
  #10  
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From: Cochrane Alberta
Well I sure hope you get a hand putting it back on cause I cann't see how one guy would do it without a crane and not damage it..... or himself. If you work in a shop you owe it to yourself to work smarter not harder. If you plan to be in this trade for life then you need to start thinking about your career down the road. One day you'll be doing something simple and you're back will let go. Its all accumulative.

I picked my hoist up for $150 at one of those discount tool sales. Cheap but it works. Just used it last night to put the head back on my '01. I've taken dozens of engines out with it and lent it out many times as well. Pretty cheap tool in the long run.
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Old Oct 26, 2008 | 02:23 PM
  #11  
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From: Pattonville, Texas
It won't go back on for another week or so, and it'll be quite a bit lighter by then (porting & no plenum), but I'll still let someone take the "heavy end" if they're around.

It is my shop and I have been in this trade for life - at least I don't pick up big blocks or Rabbits anymore!
Must be wising up in my old age.

p.s. "you wouldn't like me when I'm hungry"...
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Old Oct 26, 2008 | 04:00 PM
  #12  
DutchYellowRam's Avatar
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From: Holland
We took the head off yesterday and it we where with 3 guys but it can be done easy with 2 man. it was less heavy then we expected.
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