thats where im stuck passenger side but im gonna keep working it and if I have to I'll break out a couple of cuss words see if that helps

 

Go back to the pictures that show pushing out the bearing. You don't tap or hit them, just pust front then back, front back..... little at a time.

"manual says just like you do back the out 1/4 in and tap on the bolt head"

Never hit it, just use the power steer and push it.

 

well its done and it wasn't easy thanks to a sledge hammer and a log spliter and three guys takin turns hittin it. Those hubs were almost permanantley rust welded to the knuckles. A few dings dents later its all done and with loads of antiseaze.

 

Okay, all.

I followed directions and got ball joints changed out last weekend. All seemed to go okay. Ball joints are in (Moog upper and lower) and I replaced a worn U-joint while I was in there (passenger side). Had alignment done the following day.

Truck drives fine except for one problem. Now I have a faint tapping/knocking sound coming from the front end. I'm having a hard time pinpointing it because it is faint enough that it gets lost in engine/exhaust noise, but I can definitely hear it as I decelerate and brake. Any thoughts?

 

Make sure you did not leave a zerk in that should have a stubb in, as it will hit.
Jack it up and spin each side to see if you got something still loose or a problem with a bearing. did your roter seat back on correct? Feal anything in the brake pedal with your foot on them?

 

I have zerk fittings (I assume that is what you meant by lerk) in each ball joint. Upper has zerk on top center and lower is facing towards front. No stubs.

I'll try jacking and spinning the tire as soon as I can. Rotor and bearing both seemed to seat properly. And no, I don't feel anything at all in the braking. In fact, other than a slight pull to the right, which the truck has always had, the truck itself feels fine.

My other thought is that it might be the U-Joint I put in on the right side? I'm pretty sure I have that seated right and it looks okay. Could it be defective and if so, would it make this type of tapping noise?

 

When you press the ujoint in you and put in the c clip you also need to seat the caps back out so that the cap is not compressed to far on the joint. Most joints have a cut in the end to channel the grease and if you press it to far in it will cut in the base of the cup. Drive it to a parking lot turn the wheel, drive a big loop as to make the joint work, then put your hand on all four parts of the joint and look for a hot spot. If you got a hot spot that is the spot that is pressed on to much or a roller dropped in when you installed them.

FYI All the joints I do, I have a few pc of 4x4 wood blocks. I place the shaft on the wood blocks one on each side on the joint. Hit the top of the joint to seat the caps in the shaft and back them off the joint with a dead blow hammer. I work all the way around to get each cap. Makes the joint loose and then lube. I never have a problem with them, only factory joints.

 

Turns out, everything I did (ball joints and RF u-joint) are fine. Got home today and jacked up each side to turn the tires. Nothing on the front right, but major clacking noise on the front left.

I had replaced the RF u-joint based on mechanic failing me for a state inspection. Either the mechanic screwed up and told me the wrong u-joint, or my left front u-joint decided to go bad within 2-3 weeks of the right.

Anyway, $49.99 and I'm doing my 2nd u-joint in 2 weeks. Got half-way through it then called it a night. Worst part is that I just started my vacation today and was planning on pulling my 5er to a campground an hour and a half away this afternoon. Figured that postponing the trip was better than getting stranded 50 miles into the Southern Maine woods.

 

I hear ya ............. didn't you notice the build up of red rust on the rims? That is the classic early warning sign. What year is your truck and how many miles? Why don't you fill in you sig with year and mods etc so we can all see. I know it is a major pain but good for you wrenching on you truck. With these trucks the first to go is ujoints. They start at 75k usually, with the rear drive shaft. Then the front axle joints and finally the front dive shaft. Next comes the ball joints and then you need a front brake job at 100k. This time line is for a normal driven rig.... pound on it and expect to do it much sooner. If they came from the factory with greaseable joints we would save ourselves a lot of premature wrenching. My rig now has all the ujoints replaced with greasable. Just for all you second gen guys, the front drive shaft from the factory had spicer non greaseable joints that failed at the transfer case. Never heard of that with a second gen. Anyway let us know if we can help you....your not alone

 

All right, here is my next question. I have the u-joint ready to go in and have started out by removing axle nut, wheel, caliper and mount. Now I am trying to get the brake rotor off. Have spent the last hour and a half trying to work it off. Sprayed down with penetrating fluid last night, and again this morning. I've tried heat, rapping on it with a hammer and wood, etc. and it still won't budge.

My question is this, do i really have to remove the rotor? Next step is to back off the bolts for the bearing and remove. But that all happens from the back side right? Does removing the rotor actually matter?

Thanks
Al

 

Yes Al you got to remove the rotor. They come from the factory with clips over the lug bolts, did you remove them? I bet you did so what your fight is now is RUST. It welds the rotor to the bearing hub. Gadget posted a photo of removing the rotor and where to hammer....it works. If you have managed to break it free from the bearing hub a little, the scale like rust that forms inside the rotor hat, will flake off and bind, causing a jam between the hat and the outer flange of the bearing hub. I fought mine both sides. Keep on hammer with a hardwood block. You can always buy another rotor if its warped from using a torch.

 

Great Post - THANKS!

 

Just for an update and FYI the OTC 8031 ball joint tool set available at Tool Warehouse will work on the 1996 old style ram with the ball joints that are based in the hub (not the axle housing), as well as the 3rd gen and 99 and up trucks.

I did the ball joint swap on my 96 ram and the tool worked great. Great setup for the money as well.

Thanks again MR GADGET!

 

just to add - when trying to get rusty rotors off PB works great. I followed the steps above but the thing still wasnt close to coming off. YOu will need a 8" jaw puller. if you cant find an 8" , use a 6" bolt extra arms to it if you havve 2 sets. tighten the center bolt down to give soem pressure and tap on th erear side of the rotor with a hammer and piece of wood. This was enough to get it free. And it was very rusty

 

I have a question will the otc 8031 work on an 05 4x4 2500 ball joints also? The description says only to 04 is there a difference between 04 and 05 ?