Are you trying to do the ball joints?
If so they can still be done with out pulling the rotor, just makes it a little easier.

Or are you saying that you can not get the Hub out?

If you can get the hub out, get some wood blocks, put on the back side of the rotor all the way around an then try PB blaster and wood and the BFH on the center of the hub. It will force the hub off the rotor.

 

Yes I am replacing the ball joints.

I guess I will try and remove the bearing instead. Oh wait I cant get the axle nut off either. I even bent my breaker bar trying that, hell I can't even get the nut to budge with a 3' sleeved extension of DOM.

 

Look back at the pictures, I used a 3/4 drive with a pipe and the tire on the ground and a jack to break it loose.

Use some kind of oil and brace with the correct tools and breaker bar.

 

Ok, So after realizing the rotors are no good I went another route of getting them off.

One of these in the 10# version.


Now I can't get the bearing off after trying the power steering method. So any help here is needed.

 

Got the driver side nut off then broke my friends 3/4 SnapOn breaker on the passenger side.


EDIT: 1/2" not 3/4"

 

Ok driver side hub is gonna have to be sacrificed atleast and if the passenger side is the same then that too. I can't get it ou! I'm gonna have torch'em. **** it.


So I'm looking at which hubs to use now either OEM or federal mogul top line ones. The parts store says the federal mogul ones are a little better. What's the opinion here?

 

Timken

 

What is the average life span of the bearings?

 

I've got 100k on mine now is there any point in putting them back in if they only go for another 2k? Or are they commonly know for 200k?

 

The OEM is Timken.

 

Thought this vidhas some bearing (lol) here.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8zHBxwwOg6s

 

Okay so I installed the driver side everything. Should it be difficult to spin the hub? It is very tight once it was all installed. Does it need to be broken in a little bit? It sticks then moves a couple of inches. Is this wrong?

 

First... thanks for this post and for keeping this thread alive after all this time.

I have followed this procedure and have started the installation of my new BJs.

I'm unsure how the ball joint press is used to install the lower BJ. Do you remove the BJ boot? What part of the new BJ do you capture with the press tool cup? Referring to Mr Gadgets (Install lower BJ image)


I assumed the boot needed to be removed. And started installing the lower BJ, using the widest lip to meet the cup. (The lip that will make physical contact with the knuckle when installed). But I can't get the thing to move the last 1/4" or so. It is not quite flush with the knuckle. And now I have cracked the lip.

I also noticed the new BJ has splines, where the knuckle is smooth, but dismissed this and started the install anyway. Was that dumb? Appreciate any assistance anyone can offer.

Ken

 

With all this talk about BJ's I can't think about working on trucks.

 

I didn't have to remove the boots on mine, went from the other direction I guess. Some have splines- some don't, depends on the brand. It's a real grunt to get them in- good luck. I kept mine in the freezer overnight before installing them.