How to ( BALL JOINTS )
Cummins Guru


Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 4,191
Likes: 65
From: Sunny Southern California Land of Fruits and Nuts
Good job, but I rather work on a lift. That working on the ground kills my knee's. Guess I'm just getting old. Video would have been great also and post it on youtube. The hardest part of this job is getting the hub bearing off.
Moderators, what do you think? Wiki material? I vote the write up part gets added there after spending a hour or so searching. I checked the wiki first.
I have a u-joint going out in my front axle so it looks like a weekend project to replace. Now if I can just get hold of my wife's cousin and see if I can use his lift....
I have a u-joint going out in my front axle so it looks like a weekend project to replace. Now if I can just get hold of my wife's cousin and see if I can use his lift....
Thanks a ton.
I changed my ball joints last week ($87 each from Napa), the second side took 4.5 hours with my cheap harbor fright press ($10 off on sale). I had to machine some custom cups for the press, then it worked.
Using this write up, I safely removed the hubs in one piece; too bad they were totally worn out, noisy and needed replacement anyway ($180 each from Napa).
Also need to do the u-joints; didn't have time last week before a weekend road trip, but those new hubs should come right out now.
Probably saved me several hundred in labor, thanks again.
Chris
Using this write up, I safely removed the hubs in one piece; too bad they were totally worn out, noisy and needed replacement anyway ($180 each from Napa).
Also need to do the u-joints; didn't have time last week before a weekend road trip, but those new hubs should come right out now.
Probably saved me several hundred in labor, thanks again.
Chris
rotor removal method
Thanks MRGADGET. Very helpful. I had no luck in removing the rotor. So I drilled a hole about 0.75" deep in the rotor face between two studs and tapped a 1/4-20 thread. I then cut a length of #10 screw and placed it in the hole to use to push against. Threaded in a 1/4-20 bolt and tighened it up until I heard a pop. I then proceeded with your method of hitting with the block of wood as well hitting the rotor face between the studs all the way around until it finally loosened up and came off.
Now I'm having a hell of a time getting the bearing out. Tried the power steering method for about an hour with no luck. I sprayed WD-40 into the 4 bolt holes but it seems like it will be difficult for the WD-40 to get between the bearing housing and axle to the outer race of the bearing. Will try the air hammer method that someone else posted if the power steering method does not work again. If all else fails do I need to go the heat route? Northeast salt has really locked this bearing on!
Now I'm having a hell of a time getting the bearing out. Tried the power steering method for about an hour with no luck. I sprayed WD-40 into the 4 bolt holes but it seems like it will be difficult for the WD-40 to get between the bearing housing and axle to the outer race of the bearing. Will try the air hammer method that someone else posted if the power steering method does not work again. If all else fails do I need to go the heat route? Northeast salt has really locked this bearing on!
Many thanks to all those that have put up the "How To" threads with pics. I did my axle u-joint this past week by following the ball joint thread to the point of removing the axle.
I was having trouble with both the rotor and bearing. PB Blaster everything and let it sit. Overnight if you can. I let the bearing sit overnight after a couple good coatings of PB Blaster. Then I tried each side a couple times before it finally came loose. I used the same socket and short extension on all 4 bolts and the power steering method.
I was having trouble with both the rotor and bearing. PB Blaster everything and let it sit. Overnight if you can. I let the bearing sit overnight after a couple good coatings of PB Blaster. Then I tried each side a couple times before it finally came loose. I used the same socket and short extension on all 4 bolts and the power steering method.
Thanks MRGADGET. Very helpful. I had no luck in removing the rotor. So I drilled a hole about 0.75" deep in the rotor face between two studs and tapped a 1/4-20 thread. I then cut a length of #10 screw and placed it in the hole to use to push against. Threaded in a 1/4-20 bolt and tighened it up until I heard a pop. I then proceeded with your method of hitting with the block of wood as well hitting the rotor face between the studs all the way around until it finally loosened up and came off.
Now I'm having a hell of a time getting the bearing out. Tried the power steering method for about an hour with no luck. I sprayed WD-40 into the 4 bolt holes but it seems like it will be difficult for the WD-40 to get between the bearing housing and axle to the outer race of the bearing. Will try the air hammer method that someone else posted if the power steering method does not work again. If all else fails do I need to go the heat route? Northeast salt has really locked this bearing on!
Now I'm having a hell of a time getting the bearing out. Tried the power steering method for about an hour with no luck. I sprayed WD-40 into the 4 bolt holes but it seems like it will be difficult for the WD-40 to get between the bearing housing and axle to the outer race of the bearing. Will try the air hammer method that someone else posted if the power steering method does not work again. If all else fails do I need to go the heat route? Northeast salt has really locked this bearing on!
When I couldn't get my unit bearings out, someone on this sent me an email....
"Look you Nancy Man, put down the pocketbook, get in that cab and hang on that steering wheel like you want to break it!...."
I did just that and using the socket method, they finally popped off
http://www.rvbprecision.com/dodge-cu...t-install.html
"Look you Nancy Man, put down the pocketbook, get in that cab and hang on that steering wheel like you want to break it!...."
I did just that and using the socket method, they finally popped off
http://www.rvbprecision.com/dodge-cu...t-install.html
Rotor removal for Inner Axle replacement
Hey All, Need help asap.
I'm trying to replace my inner axle on my 97 2500 4x4, and I can't get the rotor off to expose the hub.
Does the rotor come off with the hub and bearing as an assembly???
Mine rotor looks so different from all the other prior posts I've been searching.
Before I start wailing on it too hard with a block of wood and BFH, I need to know if this rotor comes off the same as all the others that I see in the past threads? I've been smacking it for about 10 minutes now.
I've loosened the axle nut, but still have it snugged up. Used plenty of PB Blaster. Have not loosened the 4 bolts on the backside of the hub.
Thanks!
I'm trying to replace my inner axle on my 97 2500 4x4, and I can't get the rotor off to expose the hub.
Does the rotor come off with the hub and bearing as an assembly???
Mine rotor looks so different from all the other prior posts I've been searching.
Before I start wailing on it too hard with a block of wood and BFH, I need to know if this rotor comes off the same as all the others that I see in the past threads? I've been smacking it for about 10 minutes now.
I've loosened the axle nut, but still have it snugged up. Used plenty of PB Blaster. Have not loosened the 4 bolts on the backside of the hub.
Thanks!
THis was on a 3 gen, yours is a 2 gen and the rotor comes off with the bearing.
Just do the 4 bolts and push the full hub, bearing and rotor off as one.;
It is all done the came way.
Just do the 4 bolts and push the full hub, bearing and rotor off as one.;
It is all done the came way.




