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High Engine Temp While Towing

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Old Jul 14, 2010 | 07:01 PM
  #1  
justenuff's Avatar
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From: Fort McMurray, Alberta (Misplaced 'Merican from WA)
High Engine Temp While Towing

Greetings all,

This is gonna be windy, but I've got an issue, and I would REALLY appreciate some insight.

I'm in the middle of a trip from Oregon to Texas and have been experiencing some pretty high engine temps while pulling. I'm wondering if it's just my truck, or if we all suffer the same way.

I'm pulling a fairly light load, ~6-7K total, in an 18'x8' enclosed, bumper pull trailer with the truck listed in my sig. The truck just hit 60,000 miles and is running 5W-30 Amsoil (maybe a bit light for TX, but I spend most of my time in northern Alberta). I'm seeing ambient temps from 80-100 F, intake temps anywhere from 20 - 30 degrees higher than ambient, and EGT's from a steady 850 to 1100 F. If I don't downshift into 4th or 5th, and drop my speed to around 35 (1800 rpm in 5th, 2100 in 4th), I will hit 212 F rapidly. Crossing NM today, the engine temp was sitting at 202-205, as displayed on the Edge monitor. The Edge has been in "Tow" mode, but it doesn't matter if it's in 0, 1, or 2.

Coolant is going in and out of the overflow, it's not blowing the cap, I'm getting around 16 - 17 mpg, no odd noises, no excessive smoke, no white smoke, starts okay, idles okay, etc, but I get passed by everyone except really heavy rigs, or really overloaded pickups. The guy who flew by in the Ford, pulling the 40' fiver really chapped my butt...

If anyone has any thoughts, I'd love to hear them. I searched around the old posts, but didn't find anything close.

Thanks much,

Ben
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Old Jul 14, 2010 | 07:56 PM
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From: Gilbert, Az
What does your water temp max at? Do you just let it get to 212 then back off the throttle?

I don't back out of mine, until water temp is over 220 or EGTs are approaching 1300.

Tony
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Old Jul 14, 2010 | 08:57 PM
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From: Fort McMurray, Alberta (Misplaced 'Merican from WA)
Ya, I back out around 210. I figure the gauge isn't really accurate, and besides, anything approaching 212 will involve cavitation in the system, which shorten the life of the coolant system. I guess the boiling point is somewhat higher than 212, but I'd hate to find out somewhere around East Tree Stump, Idaho... I normally dont even get a chance to get to 1300 before I hit 212 water temp, but have hit 1450 a couple of times in the last two days.

I'm wondering if twins would help, or do I need to re-gear?... or MAYBE I need to stop being a hypochondriac...
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Old Jul 14, 2010 | 10:23 PM
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From: Alabama
Ben, I pull all the time, and when im pulling it will stay pretty much at 212 to 215. egt will run 950 to 1100. Now if you are trying to run 80 mph in this hot weather while pulling things are going to get really haot, keep your speed at 62 to 65 and do not run the cruise. i kkep mine cooler with using my foot. let it float on the down hills and keep your rpms at 2100 going up, this will keep you in the power band and keep that heat down. Also when you stop, let it idle for no less than 5 minutes longer if you can before you shut down, heat is hell on the turbo omong other things.
Hope this helps
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Old Jul 14, 2010 | 11:18 PM
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From: Claxton, GA
For where you are it appears the temps are about right. Did your fan ever kick on? If not, roll with it. Your temp gauge was probably a little to the right of the center has mark. Normal in the extreme heat.
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Old Jul 15, 2010 | 12:43 PM
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From: In Oroville, Ca., same house for past 46 yrs!
keep in mind that the boiling point (and cavitation point as well) is raised about 3.25 degrees for every pound of cap pressure on the system. A 10 pound cap would raise the boiling point from 212 to 242 roughly. Just the laws of physics.
I pull our BIG 40' 3-axle enclosed fifth wheel car trailer loaded and often will run up to 230 on coolant temp but watch the EGT's and don't run more than 1200. Of course lugging makes the water hotter so down shifting is just the nature of beast with the weight factored in. I run the Banks 6-gun with speedloader add on and run level 4 most of the time towing it.
We gross around 18-22K fully loaded for a racing weekend event and I've got just over 190K miles total. When I hit a grade, it slows down... sometimes a BIG RIG passes us but oh well. All stock internals so I don't have anything like bigger injectors or a bigger turbo or anything wild, my boost is usually maxed at 40 psi.
Hope this calms your nerves.
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Old Jul 15, 2010 | 03:19 PM
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From: Idaho
I just got back last week from a trip to the coast with my family. I pulled my 10k camper and my egt's were about where yours were - 12-15 lbs of boost, 1000 deg egt, tranny at 150, at about 2200 rpms. The long hills were the exception, but I ran them at 2500 rpms with boost around 20-25lbs. I ran most of the way in o/d off rather than tow/haul because it kept the rpms up and the egt's down. Whenever the tow/haul dropped my rpm's down, the egt's went straight to 1200. I'm definitley not in a race when I'm pulling, I try to stick right at the speed limit.

On a side note, 1350 miles and 150 gallons of fuel - 8.9mpg. Not the best, but considering some of the long hills I pulled with the headwinds and the lift and tires I have, I'll take it.
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Old Jul 15, 2010 | 10:15 PM
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I found out on my truck that 63 miles MPH is a good speed and will save your fuel !
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Old Jul 16, 2010 | 11:13 PM
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From: Pueblo West
A needle width or two past the center mark has been normal for the CTDs I've had - pulling hard at 100 or so degrees ambient. I guess it takes that much to get the t-stat fully open. But my 03 started running higher - 225 or so on the big hills so I downshift a little sooner and it cools down some. I think something is going on with the engine fan cuz it doesn't roar like it used to. I'm going to try a t-stat and serpentine belt first, in case it's getting glazed. The fan runs off the smooth side of the belt, which I don't care much for. Craig
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Old Jul 16, 2010 | 11:23 PM
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Is there really anything to that idea of running your heater to help cool?
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Old Jul 18, 2010 | 12:39 PM
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From: Bainbridge Island
Id assume your AC is on, but that temp is no problem. I just got back from Redding Cali where it was 104* and running the AC in stop n go traffic pulling a 10.5k toyhauler. The trans had issues with the heat, but that temp gauge was just a little right of 200 and the Quadziilla would read 210 all day. And the AC was keeping the family cool.

Running the heater is a band-aid on a neck wound, if ya gotta do that ya got some mechanical issues.
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Old Jul 18, 2010 | 01:13 PM
  #12  
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From: Claxton, GA
Originally Posted by Jerith
Is there really anything to that idea of running your heater to help cool?

Unless you have blocked off the lines like some folks have done, the coolant flows through the heater all the time. If you overheat one of these trucks, something is wrong.
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Old Jul 19, 2010 | 04:17 PM
  #13  
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From: Melbourne, Florida
I think some of your problem is with your tire size and your effective ratio as you discribed at 3.41. Set the attitude up to monitor engine load. If its up around 75% your going to be warming up, especially if it hot outside. The ratio just adds load to the engine at 3.41.

When I towed heavy with the 3.73's I had I would have to slow down somedays to 55 to keep the coolant temp in the 203-205 range. 210-215 at 65mph. My engine load was 74%. I changed rear gearing to 4.10 and have not see anything above 203 and load on the attitude at 53-54%. Boost was 27 psi with the 3.73, 15-17 psi with the 4.10. Like to see the boost stay up for the egt's. Fuel mileage is better with the 4.10's towing. EGT's with the 3.73's 1200-1250, 1050-1100 with the 4.10's. (Flat Ground) Juice/Attitude on tow.

If you have not done a hose wash of the A/C condeser and the radiator from the back side, you might also do that.
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Old Jul 20, 2010 | 12:23 AM
  #14  
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From: Fraser Valley
When it's cool, make sure the radiator is actually full.

but 212 with a pressure cap is no big deal. Coolant also raises the boiling point.
Just don't take the cap off when the engine is hot....
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