I had to pull my engine and replace it. The problem is that when I was trying to pull it out the valve cover was hitting my firewall and the oil pan was hitting my cross member. I have pulled many of engines in different vehicles but this one took the cake. I actually had to drop the oil pan and pick up tube. I don't want to do this with the new one. Any suggestions? I'm sure there's something I'm missing but can't figure it out.

 

I know one of our local dealers have started lifting the cab to do an engine swap. They claim it knocks 4 hours off the time.

 

I heard something like that. But what about the front fenders? Do I need to unbolt them from the cab or frame?

 

I honestly cannot answer that. I didn't get to see one in process, it was just a discussion we were have in the service managers office.

 

i think its kinda like the 2nd gens where u have to pull the front off, rad support,rad,intercooler, looks to be the simplest way to go.

 

I did all of that but it doesn't help with the oil pan wedging between the cross member and valve cover hitting the firewall. What it is when I pull it forward to clear the firewall the oil pan hits the cross member. So, I can't come forward anymore. therefore I can't pick the engine up anymore.

 

You sure it wasn't a Ford dealer?

(They get lots of practice...)

 

Yep, I'm sure. You're right though, they should look like a NASCAR pit crew with all the opportunities they've had to practice.

 

Get and engine balancer. probably not the right name for it. Its a device with a lift point in the center and a cranck handle so you can change the balance point of your lift. Lift the weight off the mounts, then crank it till the block rolls forward and will allow the valve cover to clear, then lift the engine up, When the oil pan clears crank it back the other way and level it back up.

Like this, but maybe better quality then harbor frieght. It will be a heavy engine and HF stuff is kinda gimpy

Well, I can't find it at harbor frieght. Maybe someone can chime in with a link

 

Why are you trying to remove/install with the valve cover in place? Take it off and I bet you'll get the added inches of clearance you need.

 

Actually had to raise the cab up about 6-8". Then it went without any problems.

 

Again, why? If you'd have pulled the cover and everything below it (injectors, rockers, etc) you'd would've been fine.

 

Just completed similar job. The cover and valve train off helps get out with the engine balancer. Getting back in was the killer. Had to remove crossmember and move manual tranny back 8 inches or so to get clutch stabed. The engine balancer and one person with sole responsibility of getting install angle sharp enough with valves and pushrods clearing cowl area.
We did think about raising body, but got offtrack due to number of supports (6), the brake plumbing, and unknown about fenders. The crossmember, driveshaft, and manual lever were perhaps a hour added.
Tell more about raising body???