dodgediesel

I have a 2003 Cummins that has a hard starting issue with no codes besides a P0700 which is transmission related. Sometimes it will crank forever and not start, starts sometimes after a few longer cranks or sometimes starts pretty good. I have 6 psi fuel pressure at the moment. Any ideas?

dodgediesel

Anyone??????????????

Kaysee

I had the same no start on my 2003, needed to use ether to start it.

I had this issue twice in the last 3 years. First was 2 Octobers ago and I thought it was related to the colder weather. Used ether to start it until I finally broke down and brought it to a local dealer referred by my mechanic friend. There was a TSB which also included a symptom of a Slow Fuel Gauge & Hard Start. The dealer reflashed the ECM with an updated version. Truck started right up at the dealer and I drove it fine until the following Oct '09. It started not starting again, nursed it with ether (I know.... very bad), performed all the fuel volume tests but neglected the injector isolation test until the end. Finally I purchased the Injector Block Off Cap Tool and started at # 6 cyl and blocked off each cyclinder one at a time (no help) until I got to #2 Injector. Once I blocked #2 off bamm it started right up. I put in a rebuilt #2 2 Injector ($415) and new connector tube ($25) in about 30 mins work and it has now started up great for almost a month or so. Basically the problem Injector pressure relief check valve was probably stuck open allowing the Rail Pressure to drop too far below spec (approx 500#) for the Injectors to fire (approx 5000#). Capping off each Injector one at a time isolates a leaking Injector and the truck will start on 5 cyls.

I am attaching the Fuel Volume test procedures along with my test results to compare yours to...... good luck!

Check out this thread to see my Testing Results (attached there):

https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...d.php?t=268206

TROY1

Yeah I had similar problem last Summer 2010 I'm not the best guy working on my truck so I decide to take in to the dealer and they found out that it was a bad injector as well, after they changed it, now it works like a champ !

Gen414

I had/have a similar issue with mine. About 2 years ago, was driving back from a long haul, pulled over to get fuel, ran inside, shut truck off. Had been running for @ 20+ straight hours up to that point.
Truck was off for MAYBE 5 minutes, was @ 10* outside, but obivously truck/engine were still plenty warm. Hopped in, NO START.
Cranked and cranked, NOTHING. Guy next to me had some ether, fogged the intake (obviously have to be careful because of grid heater) and cranked up and ran fine.
Drove home.
About 3-4 days later, @ 30* outside, been sitting all night long, NO START. Sht of ether, ran fine.
Also, NO CODES.

That was 2 YEARS ago, and guess what? NO PROBLEMS SINCE! I never changed anything, and never found problem, but truck has NOT done it since.

Now, this is what my truck WILL do since then though.

If Ive been driving truck, and shut it off, then let it sit for a few minutes or mlonger, if I do NOT wait 3-5 seconds after I turn key to run position amd THEN start, it will crank a LOOOONNNGGGGG time before it catches and fires off.
BUT, if I wait the 3-5 seconds wih key in run position and THEN try and start, it fires off everytime like clock work. but I HAVE to wait 3-5 seconds before I try and start or I get teh LOOOOOONNNNNGGGG crank time.


Ok, so that is one problem I still have, and number 2 is crazy:

I'll be driving along and all of a sudden DEAD PEDAL. No input from pedal. truck will idle, but NO response from pedal. After @ 5+ seconds, I will get response from my pedal and everything is hunky dory again. Truck runs fine.

Ive changed out Cam shaft position sensor, AND crank shaft position sensor, but still same problem.
I can go 2-3 MONTHS without that happening, then all of a sudden, with no warning, it will do that, and then do it like 2-3 days ina ROW, then NOTHING for another 1, 2, 3+ months.
Weird, needless to say...