Hard Start is Killing Me
Have an 03' with 80k that started to develop a hard start about a month ago. It did throw a P0340 (or could have been P0341) code "Camshaft Sensor" so I replaced the part.
When my truck did start, it ran fine until I turned it off again. No excessive smoke, no rough idle, hard pull through 100mph, and all gauges at normal. I do not have any gauges but the factory.
The start issue got so bad it finally threw a P0251 code (IP Fuel Valve Feedback). I installed a brand new spare LP (factory style) that I had kept on hand due to hearing everyone complain about it. I figured that for $175 I could replace three or four and still be under what the dealer wanted for the in-tank replacement. Only run a Smarty Jr. on economy so a high performance LP might be overkill.
The new LP didn't make a difference and took it to Clear Lake Dodge in Houston. The mechanic claimed the LP was bad and the dealership wanted $1200 for the in-tank replacement along with a 3 week wait. They wouldn't listen that it was not the LP and charged $125 for diagnosis. Dealership didn't even check the recall on the steering (as I asked) or reset the P0251 code.
Truck wouldn't even start after they "looked at it" and I had it towed back home. Ordered FCA and replacement rail (includes RP Sensor and HP relief valve) from Cummins for a total of $400 (dealership wanted $1200 for same parts). I figured that those items (out of warranty) were the most complained about and I might as well have them on hand as I trouble shoot the hard start issue.
I bled the fuel filter to test the LP and it pumped fine. I then tried to start it and it started. Turned it off and it wouldn't start. Just out of curiousity, I bled the fuel filter again and guess what...it started.
Took the banjo bolt off the HP relief valve and wrapped the line with plastic. Gave a few cranks and did not observe any fuel on the valve (the line did have some fuel back wash though).
I am waiting on the parts from Cummins to test further. I am also going to install a fuel pressure gauge ASAP.
Meanwhile, I filled up with fuel and spiked the tank with a 16oz can of Seafoam and 160z of Power Service supplement. After 30 miles, truck now starts everytime but still has a longer than normal crank (especially if it the engine is at operating temps). I am headed on a trip so I will spike the tank at least once more at next fill up.
I also did find that the cap off plug on the top of the fuel tank (basically a 1 1/2 inch closed ended rubber line with a clamp) had dry rotted open. Replaced it with another plug.
I am watching my oil level and keep the fuel filter changed regularly. Like I said, when running, the truck has no power loss, no smoke, no rough idle, no nothing.
Any ideas guys?
When my truck did start, it ran fine until I turned it off again. No excessive smoke, no rough idle, hard pull through 100mph, and all gauges at normal. I do not have any gauges but the factory.
The start issue got so bad it finally threw a P0251 code (IP Fuel Valve Feedback). I installed a brand new spare LP (factory style) that I had kept on hand due to hearing everyone complain about it. I figured that for $175 I could replace three or four and still be under what the dealer wanted for the in-tank replacement. Only run a Smarty Jr. on economy so a high performance LP might be overkill.
The new LP didn't make a difference and took it to Clear Lake Dodge in Houston. The mechanic claimed the LP was bad and the dealership wanted $1200 for the in-tank replacement along with a 3 week wait. They wouldn't listen that it was not the LP and charged $125 for diagnosis. Dealership didn't even check the recall on the steering (as I asked) or reset the P0251 code.
Truck wouldn't even start after they "looked at it" and I had it towed back home. Ordered FCA and replacement rail (includes RP Sensor and HP relief valve) from Cummins for a total of $400 (dealership wanted $1200 for same parts). I figured that those items (out of warranty) were the most complained about and I might as well have them on hand as I trouble shoot the hard start issue.
I bled the fuel filter to test the LP and it pumped fine. I then tried to start it and it started. Turned it off and it wouldn't start. Just out of curiousity, I bled the fuel filter again and guess what...it started.
Took the banjo bolt off the HP relief valve and wrapped the line with plastic. Gave a few cranks and did not observe any fuel on the valve (the line did have some fuel back wash though).
I am waiting on the parts from Cummins to test further. I am also going to install a fuel pressure gauge ASAP.
Meanwhile, I filled up with fuel and spiked the tank with a 16oz can of Seafoam and 160z of Power Service supplement. After 30 miles, truck now starts everytime but still has a longer than normal crank (especially if it the engine is at operating temps). I am headed on a trip so I will spike the tank at least once more at next fill up.
I also did find that the cap off plug on the top of the fuel tank (basically a 1 1/2 inch closed ended rubber line with a clamp) had dry rotted open. Replaced it with another plug.
I am watching my oil level and keep the fuel filter changed regularly. Like I said, when running, the truck has no power loss, no smoke, no rough idle, no nothing.
Any ideas guys?
How many miles on the truck? I'd be concerned about that P0251 code. Wouldn't start throwing alot of parts at it unti further diagnosis. I think you are on the right track with a fuel pressure gauge. Rail pressure gauge as well. That's all the parts I would buy for the time being - gauges.
Just took a 250 mile trip at 75-80 miles an hour. No hiccups, ran great at 17.2 mpg. Not bad for a 4x4 at that speed.
Did not try to restart, was going to let it cool for a couple of hours so I can check the oil level first.
Will update.
Did not try to restart, was going to let it cool for a couple of hours so I can check the oil level first.
Will update.
Another thing to check is the wire going by the A/C lines right above the compressor. It is noted for rubbing on the lines and this also provides the 5 volts for the camshaft position sensor. Since you had the camshaft position sensor code I would check it. The thread used to be stickied to the top of this forum. Don't know where it has gone.
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My father in law is in the same boat too. He replaced a cam sensor and lift pump. Still no start after one run. He has to bleed the filter everytime too. The guy who is working on his truck thinks it's injectors but is giving him some crazy prices for new ones.
newones are pretty high. your better off sending them to F1 and getting whats broken fixed in stead of putting oem back in if thats the case. Its usually like $150 to$ 200 per infector depending on the the damage. Dont quote me on that. Its on their website somewhere.
No, not at all. Mine was beginning to have the hard start problem. Finally it wouldn't start one morning. Injectors out and sent to F1. Don conveyed that two were pretty bad and the other 4 were starting to leak by.
Here is an update on my truck. All I have done is to run a double dose of PS and two cans of Seafoam for three tanks. I am on my forth tank with only regular PS dose and one can of Seafoam with a new 7 micron fuel filter. My hard start is just about gone. Weird, I wonder if it is possible that the hard start was an injector issue that is curable by spiking the tank. I am not going to use PS anymore as I have been using it prior to my issues and wanted to use what I had on hand. I think it must have been the Seafoam cleaning up the injectors.
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