Well if it reads barometric pressure then it would need a baseline pressure reading to calculate boost. That reading would change according to weather and altitude.

"Boost" is not read directly off the MAP sensor, voltages are read and converted to boost so there is always going to be some sort of calculation involved.

 

Barometric pressure is a measure of air density. Temperature also is a factor to air density. Both are important to oxygen content in the air.
Both are important factors in the timing and fuel mixture.

 

Good point, not sure if the program in the ECU is sophisticated enough to do that. Calculating adjusted density altitude takes a few more parameters than barometric pressure and temp but maybe there is a way to hit a satisfactory number with them.

My understanding is the mappings for boost, rpm, etc, are simple lookup tables where a reading equals a number and extrapolation is used to find non-existent values. Not sure that info is available outside the engineering departments though.

 

When all this is said and done, the bottom line is that an oiled filter WILL slowly coat the first IAT sensor and the inside of the intake tube. With the new dry filters (like AEM) why would anyone still run an oiled filter?
I had an oiled filter and in 5000 miles it was coating my sensor and tube with a fine brown grime and causing the sensor to read erraticly.
I switched to the AEM dryflow and in the next 20000 miles no more grime.

Ditch the dino filter!

 

Not all oiled filters are the same. Both the oiled AFE's I've used didn't leave ANY traces of oil in the intake tubing.

If you over-oil any filter you're going to have that problem. The key is get a good quality filter (NOT K&N) and don't over-oil it.

 

That was from the factory oil load...never had it in long enough to clean it

 

What brand??? They're not all the same you know.

K&N is known for doing that. AFE does not do it.