rocksride

What type noise will an injector make. Pulling my RV last time I heard a slight type gas engine pinging noise. Today towing the RV it was louder (very very noticable) but became less loud as the engine got hotter. Never had this type noise before. At cruise speed was barely noticable and at certin rpm's went away and than returned so it cannot be an exhaust leak, I do not think. Looked at the manifold and looks fine.
Rock

47Dodge

Hows your valve adjustment?




47

rocksride

Have not checked the valve lash, engine only has 66k and was quiet as could be than all of a sudden came this pinging noise. I will be pulling my boat this week which weights twice the RV a short distance and will see how loud it will be. None towing I can still hear it barely and seems like it is louder on the engine driver side. I have also noticed the motor is not super smooth at idle you can feel a slight shake and at 1100-1300 rpm a roughness. Still have my Dodge 7/70 warranty and will bring it in after New Year.
Rock

Spooler

Are you using any fuel treatment? Powerservice or the like. I have had it using any of those type fuel treatments.

Chrisreyn

Just on an off chance, you may want to check your PS fluid level and that your pulleys are running true...

remember if it is the PS pump, it takes AT-4 trans fluid..

rocksride

I checked all the easy stuff and everything looks good. Not running any additive in the last month. I will see what happens when I tow my big boat in a few days. Drove the truck today and it is quieter than it was yesterday. I have read every prior post on injectors and that is what it leads me to. I just hope it is as loud as it was the other day when I take it to the dealer next Friday.
Rock

Steve-l

Pinging is detonation. Detonation is the collision of two or more flame fronts. In a gasoline engine, it can be very damaging, but in a diesel it can be normal operation. It is going to be more noticeable under high load, low rpm and cold engine conditions. In order to determine what the cause is, more information is needed that you have not provided like EGT, fuel consumption and even fuel type. Even with all the above, it will still be difficult to be certain without a stationary load test. Be prepared to answer the dealer's questions like:
Does this occur without a trailer?
How cold was the weather at the time?
Was the engine cold?
At what engine rpm did this occur?
Did the pinging noise occur at the frequency of a single cylinder of did it seem like it occurred in multiple cylinders?

I could make a better guess if you could answer those questions.

rocksride

Steve,
Let me answer your questions.

1. Engine temp cold pinging very loud, normal engine temp after 50 miles a little quieter.
2. You can here the ping with no trailer and way louder towing.
3. Have ran three different tanks of fuel with no difference.
4. Outside air temps 70 80 degrees.
5. Ping louder 1200-1800 rpm. at any steady highway rpm you can still hear the ping but when you accelerate even slightly gets really loud.

This is something new that has just started up. I have always heard a slight rattle type noise when towing but very slight and thanjust certain times. This is my second truck and I know what ever it is is not a normal rattle. It is just like getting bad gas in a gas motor. I have had my smarty jr on SW2 Towing stock tq and TM at 3 for two years now with no problem pulling 13-14k boat. Driving to pick up my new rv I heard a slight ping type noise like I get heavy pulling. Hooked up the 7k empty rv and I could not believe the ping I started to get.

After getting home set Smarty jr on SW1 economy tq stock and TM to 4. Did not tow but you could still hear the ping just driving but not as loud. I now have smarty set back to all stock and will be towing my 14k boat tomorrow a short distance below 50 mph for a several day get away. Will post upon return on engine ping set to stock.

The engine is running at idle a tad rough not smooth as glass. You can feel the roughness 1100 -1250 rpm. I have no codes recorded. How does the dealer check for a bad injector and what exactly should I ask them to check. I do not want a bs answer from the dealer so I want to know exactly what to request that they check. My last dealer (will never return) told me I did not have a trainee cooler and they never had a factory front axle driveshaft with a u joint grease fitting, that i changed that out. Did no good showing the idiot the factory sticker under the hood to ensure it got greased every oil change or the book. Even though I have the extended warranty for all parts I am sure I have to pay for the diagnosis and have no problem with that. I just want to ensure I have the right test done and know what to ask be done. Thanks for any advise.
Rock

AH64ID

It's called timing rattle and nearly every 3rd gen does it at some point, more so on the 04.5-07 platform.

Cold air/motor calls for timing advance and can make it louder as well. It could be as simple as the weather, or poor quality fuel.

The rpm you describe is where the timing is quite advanced from the factory, I run a lot less timing there and the motor is super quiet.

I would load up a dose of fuel treatment for the tow, the added weight will help clean anything out if that is your issue.

Really it sounds normal to me thou.

rocksride

Droped the truck at the dealer an hour ago and just recieved a call back. Tech says the noise in is the valve train/piston area. ****, just what I did not want to hear.
Rock

AH64ID

Interesting, the sound you described wouldn't have made me think that.

soulezoo

Well, the truck is at the dealer so further troubleshooting is out.

The first thing to do would be to pull all the timing out from the smarty-- run stock timing-- and note the change in sound. Smarty tends to be very aggressive in the timing curve. If you have carbon build up in the cylinders, this can contribute and could be the causational factor you are looking for due to the fact you note it wasn't there before and now it exists even with no change in the engine tuning.

It would be a rare occurrence for the valve train to go out of adjustment in just 66k miles. Factory calls for a check of valve lash at 100k miles. Mine needed no adjustment at that interval.

My guess is that it will end up being a combination of small things, not just a single thing. From what you describe however, a leaky injector (very minor) may be a culprit. I say minor because you don't mention any white smoke at start when cold.

rocksride

I did not notice any white smoke this morning at 45 degrees but it was also dark at. I set all smarty parameters back to stock several days ago. This noise has me baffeled I pulled my 14k boat back yesterday (short trip never over 50) and the noise was there but not as loud as a few days earlier. I have the truck now. The dealer told me to get it and bring it back Monday when they can tear into it. I said what about the noise I do not want to do any damage. I was told no problem, so it will have about 50 more miles on it come Monday. They told me to get it so if anything happens it is on them and the warranty. If the head comes off I will go there to look at the cylinder walls and pistons. You can stand next to the engine and barely hear it even at a higher idle. Get in the truck and drive and you can really hear the rattle but is less at hard acceleration. I would think if it was valve train related it would be loud under heavy or light load. It will be parked till Monday and see what the diesel tech comes up with than. This will be a long two days.
Rock

Musky50

Please be sure to update post with what is found. I am a new diesel owner and hear everything that I have never heard in a gas engine. I worry about the same things that you seem to be hearing.

Steve-l

Rock,
I doubt it is a valve train issue, at least not in the beginning, this rattling does cause excessive heat and can over time burn a valve and even a piston. You did not say if the sound seems like a single cylinder issue or it seems it may be a multi-cylinder one. If it sounds like a single cylinder, I would suspect an injector. The only way to test an injector is on a dedicated test bench, which most dealers WILL NOT HAVE. Therefore, you can expect the dealer to tell you to change all the injectors. I would find a guy with a proper bench and check them all before I sprung for the $2500 plunge.