I've been reading about fuel filters here and from what I've read the best you can do on a regular filter replacement is 7 microns. These say 3 micron. is that true or someones imagination?
Ron
http://usdieselparts.com/i-13465624-...odge-5-9l.html

 

AFE lies about everything else, no reason to expect anything different here

 

Amazing what you can learn here.

 

The D2 does not have water separation capabilities. Therefore this so called filter is a waste of money.

 

Get a Baldwin PF7977 and call it a day. It does 5 micron and water separation. Be very careful on what fuel filter you use. I would only use a Fleetguard or a Baldwin. If you add additional filtering capabilities you have more options.

 

Get a Baldwin PF7977
I use the Baldwin oil and gas filters with shell rotella 15w40 oil

change all at 7500 mile intervals

so far 82K, no problems

the old 2005 dodge diesel runs like a top.

remember the air filter, be sure to buy a top quality filter, I use a mopar 4" thick std filter

 

I use WIX 33585XE and no problems.

Change the fuel filter every 18 to 20,000 miles.

Change the oil every 8 to 10,000 miles.

 

Ron the best thing you can do is to add filtering, if you use filters made for the big rigs and stationary engines the filters are so plentiful they are very inexpensive.we mount the filters just forward of the fuel tank. we run a fleet of dodges and recently installed one on a 06. there is two bolts through the floor board for a rear seat option at this location. some of our trucks use them others do not. get a 2" x 3" piece of angle iron 6" long. make a card board template that the two bolts and keeper nuts will go through hold the template on the inside against the 2" part and drill the two holes they will be about 5/8" i think and about 3 7/8 " between. center the holes on the 2" and near the edge on the 2" hold the angle iron over the bolts with the 3"part the furtherest away from the tank and drill a 1/4" hole between the two holes, keep drilling through the floor board. now after you mount the filters to the angle iron just simply mount it with a 1/4 grade 8 bolt. this is the only hard part the other items is easy. the total time including building the bracket is about 1 1/2 hours. i will give you napa numbers but they can cross reference to wix or car quest. the two bases are 4770 the water separator pre filter is 3406 the 2 micron filter is 3674. use a 3/8" nipple with about 1/2" space in the middle connect the two bases together observing the in and out. because of this the mounting plate on one filter base is about 1" further out than the other. install two 90* 3/8" barbed fittings on the bases and temporary bolt the angle iron up and hold the filters up to it. make sure everything clears and mark the one base that touches the plate to drill the three holes to mount the filters. next cut the feed fuel line at this location and bend the lines out a little and install 3/8 hose over the lines and to the barbed fittings. i put a small amount of flair on the steel lines. but i do not think it is necessary. Bleed the air out through the stock filter before trying to start it. use a gauge and do not change the filters until you see a four pound drop this should be about every 150,000 miles and the stock filter will never need to be changed. Cheapest place is http://www.fleetfilter.com/filters/w...ter-bases.html

your filter base has two inlets and two outlets on each base be careful to connect the nipple between the outlet of the first filter to the inlet of the second. only one of the bases get's the bolts as the offset places the second base about a inch away from the plate. we use to make spacers on the first ones and then decided they were not needed

 

Carl thanks for the input. I am certainly considering adding prefilters. I did finally got my Baldwin PF7977 filters in that I ordered. I also just got my 07 5.9l back from the dealer. I was getting constant P0148 code and Grid Heater light would come on sporadically. They had it for over 3 weeks. First they found metal filings in the fuel filter bowl, so that led to them pulling the tank trying to figure out the filings. There was some accumulation of the filings on the lift pump but the tank was clean. I had them replace the pump, that didn't fix it so they replaced all the injectors. so far that appears to have fixed it. (after one day of driving). Fortunately my insurance covered it all except deductible due to fuel contamination, otherwise I would not have let them just throw parts at it hoping to fix it. That being said I am really wanting to keep the fuel clean.
Thanks Ron

 

On my 2nd Gen., I'm running a Raycor 4120 fuel filter/water seperator unit (Spin-On Series) before my lift pump (FASS). I've had this setup for approx. 5-6 yrs. The Raycor 4120 unit is designed to be used pre or post the lift pump and has excellent flow rates on vacuum and pressure. I use this filter as my pre-filter.

It is very easy to change and has a air-bleed valve and integrated primer pump. You can also add a fuel bowl heater if you live in cold climates and to drain the water you just turn the **** on the fuel bowl.

I also have my stock fuel filter on the engine and every time I check it for replacement, it is as clean as the day I installed it.

Info. links are below... Hope this helps.

By the way, I am about to purchase a 2005 Dodge Ram 2500 and have an extra Raycor 4120 fuel filter assembly I plan on installing on it along with a few other goodies beginning with Fuel Injectors.

https://www.maesco.com/products/raco...spn_intro.html

https://www.maesco.com/products/raco...spn_specs.html

 

If you go with the Raycor 4120 for the common rail make sure to use the 2 micron version.

 

MikeyB,

Is there a lessons-learned issue if a 10-micron or 30-micron filter is used on a common rail as a pre-filter setup instead of a 2-micron filter ?

 

1st: Common rails work off pressures (what I see on my CTS) ranging approximately 7,000 psi (idle) to over 23,000 psi (wot). Injector internal tolerances are all but microscopic. So the smallest piece of garbage has the potential to be disastrous. Additionally they have a very low tolerance for water.

2nd: Speaking for myself, the answer is yes. Currently waiting "impatiently" for my set of injectors to be completed. Started with a slight miss at idle only when cold that would clear up with in a minute then progressively got worse. 5 of 6 failed return rate miserably at only 96,000 mi. All the nozzles were either: seeping, weeping or leaking. They only had 9500 miles on them. The nozzle issues were probably due to a lack of build quality, so I'll take the hit on those as I made the vendor choice. This all being on stock filtering (5-7 micron depending on filter), filter changes at 7500 miles, watching where I fuel and running additives.
This go-around, the injectors are receiving all BMS components (wanted BBI's but got caught $$$ wise with "my pants down") and the stock filter is being eliminated in favor of a FASS 150 Titanium (comes w/ 3 micron, can cross over to 2). Is this going to be a cure all? Time will tell if I made a good choice.

Why I'm having issues at 96,000 miles when I just sold a 05 with 327,000 miles that only had 1 injector replaced due to a solenoid issue running stock filtering?? I don't have a factual answer. My "opinion" is: sitting is the worse thing for these all the way around. Gives the liquid garbage in the fuel time to start corroding. Like I said, just my "opinion"

 

I use a napa inline filter ahead of the walbro, the oem for the second stage filter and for water separation and a cat or fg for the third stage. Craig