i am in need of replacing my two front u-joints and needing advice and any tips on this. Have never done the fronts on a pickup before, lots of rears. so step by step would be great. Also in need of replacing the front brake pads, wondering what brand everyone is liking?

 

there is a thread on here somewhere that is step by step w/pics. i really cant remember who posted it or anything like that. i think i found it by googling wheel bearing replacement or u-jiont replacement. Hope you can find it because it is a really good and thourogh thread

 

there is a "how to: ball joints" thread by Mr. Gadget on here that will get you through removing the front axle shafts. biggest challenge will be removing the hubs without damaging them. using power steering method with a socket to push on the back of the hub bolts works for a lot of people. sounds like you will be in familiar territory from there installing new u-joints. and always be very careful re-inserting axle shafts, clean out axle tubes well, and fully support axle shaft when sliding it back in you do not want to trash those seals (you have to pull the diff and drive em from the inside)

 

i went with EBC greenstuff front and rear pads and so far i am very pleased with them. great stopping power and no brake loss while towing.

 

been there done that, whew. lots of penetrating spray overnight and used the power streering thing, it works every time.

lather up everything in Anti-Seize, it makes the next removal 10x easier.

if you feel fancy, something equivalent.
http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item....group_ID=21345

 

Hawk/Mopar are good
http://www.genosgarage.com/products.asp?dept=150

I went with Wagner Premium and very happy.

 

Before you even start make sure and read the post by Mr. Gadget, its called "How to (Ball Joints) but it is the complete breakdown to get to the u-joints as well. Also, make sure you have an 18mm socket and wrench and get a 1 11/16 socket along with a good breaker bar and lots of penetrating fluid. Once you have the u-joints out and you are carring the axle around clean them off with lots of penetrating fluid. You will find that they have retainer clips on the backside. i also had to heat up the caps of the u-joints in order to remove them as they are sealed with some sort of epoxy.

Basically goes like this:
1. Loosen axle nut (1 11/16, 184ft lbs)
2. Remove tire
3. Remove brakes (1/2 socket)
4. Remove drum
5. Remove 4 bolts that hold hub to flange (18mm socket)
6. Remove hub, either by socket method with power steering or hub puller
7. Remove anti-lock sensor
8. Clean area where hub was located
9. Wiggle axle rod and u-joint until they come through whole hub flange
10. Clean axle and u-joint
11. Go back to truck and clean areas with penetrating oil or brake cleaner while the u-joint is soaking
12. Heat up u-joints (I used a torch and waited until I could not see fluid running out from the end caps)
13. Remove u-joints
14. Install new u-joints
15. Install all parts back on truck
16. Meticulously tighten everything back up

I just did mine this past weekend and spent more time trying to find that dang 1 11/16 socket then I probably did on the rest of the project. Total project time without the searching was approx 3 hours.

 

When I did mine I could not find a 1 11/16 socket. I used a 1 3/4 six point socket. Worked just fine. Took more than 500 ft/lbs to break the nuts loose.

Not hard to replace the u-joints, just takes a little time. My u-joints were held in with clips and not the plastic as some have.

 

No Kidding...broke a 4' cheater pipe and a wrench trying to break mine loose. Finally found a friend with a 1" impact gun, that made very short work of the hub nut.

 

Here is the Mr. Gadget thread
https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...power+steering